Hey all,
So I had a 'few things' that I wanted to get done over this past winter. Well here it is OCTOBER :shock: :shock: and, finally, most of them are done. Its a big list.
Over the next few months, I'll collect the pictures and post one project at a time with (hopefully clear) descriptions.
Here's one to start...
This was my take on the venerable C-Dory air conditioner install.
I used a $89.00 special, 5000BTU unit from Wal-Mart. Nothing special so it could be easily replaced when (not if) the salt water got to it.
The first task was to make some “feet” for the bottom. I cut some notches in the feet so that it would sit in position within the window frame. The feet are epoxy-coated and glued to the bottom of the AC unit with 5200 in a carefully (2hrs of cussing and growling) measured position. Also cut to the stupid shape of the bottom of the AC pan.
Here are the feet hooked into position on the window frame.
The backs of the "feet" are cut so that they sit on the hinges of the hatch. They are cut down so that they cause the AC to angle back for good water drainage. They are just high enough, though, to keep the AC off of the lexan.
Here’s the outside view
Next we started measuring for a “sock” to try to seal up the air hole as best we could
Lisa made the sock to have the exact rectangular opening of the AC unit on one end, and the measured outer window frame on the outer edge.
I used thin aluminum strips and VERY short sheet metal screws to fasten the "sock" to the AC unit. The outer edge has 1/4" bungee cord in a hem and one of those squeeze cinch thingies.
I used a kayak "bungee button" (http://kayakfishinggear.com/bungeebutton.aspx) at each corner of the window frame. We hook the bungied hem of the sock over the four corners and it holds everything up to the window frame. These things are VERY useful for all kinds of stuff, BTW, I use them for everything!
I installed a dedicated AC outlet right next to where the AC cord would be coming out.
…..and then cut the cord off of the AC unit to just the right length. It was easier to do from inside the AC unit than messing with the breaker-plug. I cut off about 2ft from the pigtail and had to put some new push-on crimp connectors on the 3 wires.
So here is the "in use". Kind of a cheezy '70's-look with the fluffy opening cover. Standing in front of the cool breeze, it may just grow on me…..
Lisa also made a nifty stow/carry bag with a semi-rigid rubberized bottom for schlepping the thing around the boat. The towel can absorb any extra condensation drainage.
What I didn’t take a picture of is a hole I drilled in the bottom of the pan all the way at the very back corner.
Some of the AC units have the rear fan sitting in the condensate on purpose and they sprinkle cooling water onto the coils as they spin. This was a bit of a problem as there would be a quart or so of water in there at any time when you were trying the take the unit it.
I gave up on this extra feature and put the hole in where I thought it would drain out quickly and not leave much water in the pan. If you do this, BE CAREFUL drilling into the pan until you know what is behind it!!! I nearly nicked a freon tube in the process :shock:
I coated the freshly-drilled metal edges with epoxy, but I'll have to keep a close eye on it for rust, as dripping, rusty water would not be good for the bow deck.
Hope this is of use to some! All photos are in my album with abbreviated descriptions.
Best,
Ray
So I had a 'few things' that I wanted to get done over this past winter. Well here it is OCTOBER :shock: :shock: and, finally, most of them are done. Its a big list.
Over the next few months, I'll collect the pictures and post one project at a time with (hopefully clear) descriptions.
Here's one to start...
This was my take on the venerable C-Dory air conditioner install.
I used a $89.00 special, 5000BTU unit from Wal-Mart. Nothing special so it could be easily replaced when (not if) the salt water got to it.
The first task was to make some “feet” for the bottom. I cut some notches in the feet so that it would sit in position within the window frame. The feet are epoxy-coated and glued to the bottom of the AC unit with 5200 in a carefully (2hrs of cussing and growling) measured position. Also cut to the stupid shape of the bottom of the AC pan.
Here are the feet hooked into position on the window frame.
The backs of the "feet" are cut so that they sit on the hinges of the hatch. They are cut down so that they cause the AC to angle back for good water drainage. They are just high enough, though, to keep the AC off of the lexan.
Here’s the outside view
Next we started measuring for a “sock” to try to seal up the air hole as best we could
Lisa made the sock to have the exact rectangular opening of the AC unit on one end, and the measured outer window frame on the outer edge.
I used thin aluminum strips and VERY short sheet metal screws to fasten the "sock" to the AC unit. The outer edge has 1/4" bungee cord in a hem and one of those squeeze cinch thingies.
I used a kayak "bungee button" (http://kayakfishinggear.com/bungeebutton.aspx) at each corner of the window frame. We hook the bungied hem of the sock over the four corners and it holds everything up to the window frame. These things are VERY useful for all kinds of stuff, BTW, I use them for everything!
I installed a dedicated AC outlet right next to where the AC cord would be coming out.
…..and then cut the cord off of the AC unit to just the right length. It was easier to do from inside the AC unit than messing with the breaker-plug. I cut off about 2ft from the pigtail and had to put some new push-on crimp connectors on the 3 wires.
So here is the "in use". Kind of a cheezy '70's-look with the fluffy opening cover. Standing in front of the cool breeze, it may just grow on me…..
Lisa also made a nifty stow/carry bag with a semi-rigid rubberized bottom for schlepping the thing around the boat. The towel can absorb any extra condensation drainage.
What I didn’t take a picture of is a hole I drilled in the bottom of the pan all the way at the very back corner.
Some of the AC units have the rear fan sitting in the condensate on purpose and they sprinkle cooling water onto the coils as they spin. This was a bit of a problem as there would be a quart or so of water in there at any time when you were trying the take the unit it.
I gave up on this extra feature and put the hole in where I thought it would drain out quickly and not leave much water in the pan. If you do this, BE CAREFUL drilling into the pan until you know what is behind it!!! I nearly nicked a freon tube in the process :shock:
I coated the freshly-drilled metal edges with epoxy, but I'll have to keep a close eye on it for rust, as dripping, rusty water would not be good for the bow deck.
Hope this is of use to some! All photos are in my album with abbreviated descriptions.
Best,
Ray
