I've found that color cable ties secured to the chain work well as markers and surprisingly, don't get chewed up in the gypsy even if you leave the whole 6 inch tail on. Unlike paint, they are easy to remove when you reverse the chain next season. They're cheaper than the tape markers, and can be used on the line as well if you cinch 'em down tight. Even cheapo medium-duty versions last several seasons.
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Tie-AC8SD100 ... ies+colors
We had the wireless Lewmar windlass remote control installed by a pro, ran about $600 as I also needed all the extra parts, and the wiring was tight, massive and complicated. I'm undecided on whether it's worth it.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/lewmar--t ... --11866852
Although a 'proprietary scheme' is advertised to prevent accidental wireless activation of the windlass, that would be a nightmare underway on the water or trailering with a self launching anchor. On receipt of the correct RF signal, down goes the anchor. I secure the anchor above the roller with a 50# rubber bungey to the bow rail, and disable the windlass circuit at the thermal breaker when underway/trailering. Belt and suspenders, but popping that breaker is not a bad idea for any of us to prevent accidental activation (by someone bumping the toggle,for instance) while underway. Consider adding that to YOUR Departure/Arrival Checklist.
The thermal breaker is likely un-marked but looks something like this:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea- ... P011975505
Mine is all black on black, so I painted the pop-down lever with yellow glitter fingernail polish. Fortunately, I had enough left over to do all my nails, too. And one eyebrow.
Agree that the more you use it ( the windlass, not the fingernail polish), the easier it will become, and with Bob that the abrupt appearance of the anchor at the roller can be surprising if the chain isn't marked. When 3 big red cable ties appear at the roller, I know the anchor is just at the water level and we decide then if it needs some cleaning by up/down dunking or a bit of idling. Agree that fouling the prop is never an issue (in my case, with 120 feet of hi-test chain) if you follow Bob's excellent advice.
Most windlass failures seem to be from water intrusion into the gears and/or motor. I'm still looking for a windlass rain cover while docked...we have some torrential downpours.
I use a chain-grabber with 8 feet of nylon 3 strand to a cleat if we are going to go out of sight of the boat. It only takes a minute and just gives peace of mind. I don't use snubbers at anchor but have the Scandvik Bungey snubbers on the dock lines and like them a lot, but they're hard to find.
Happy Boating!
John