Questions about our "new to us" CD 25 ??

T

Tom on Icarus

New member
We are proud new owners of a 2008 CD 25 Cruiser. The fellow we bought it from wanted a smaller C-Dory so he took our CD22 Cruiser in trade. I have many questions for all of you brats about the 25. Your answers and ideas are always so valuable. Thanks, in advance, for your patience and input. Here are some questions………………..
#1. Did the factory use sealer on the screw holes into the balsa core and transom (I see no evidence of sealant)?
#2 The cockpit floor hatches leak. Is there a good seal available?
#3 The dash switch that reads “bilge pump” turns on the pump at the cabin door and the switch that reads “ cabin pump” turns on the aft bilge pump. Were the wires connected to the wrong switches?
#4 Is the big cockpit floor panel easy to remove and what, other than the fuel tank does it access?
#5 I think there is only one fuel tank but there are two filler deck fittings and vents. Is this right?
#6 Are the aft rails strong enough to mount the stock Scotty Rail Mounts and downriggers without any extra bracing?
#7 How do most of you drain the water tank?
Cheers, :beer
Tom
 
#1 no. well they may have depending on the boat but I would go with NO and be safe.
#2 yes they do and if you do a search here on the brats there have been many post about it and how to fix it any one of ten or so ways.
#3 Yes they are connected to the wrong switch, so switch them
#4 define easy?? Not being a smart ass, this time, but what some people find easy to do on a boat others deem impossible. I found it easy to install a windlass in the bow others have a hard time changing a tire, you know who you are. :wink:
#5 I don't know but I believe you have two tanks for a total of 100 or 110 gallons.
#6 Matter of opinion and my opinion says not. I would, and did on my 27, reinforce the rail. Look at post of what others have done. I fish on the bottom a lot in areas with crab pots so I get snagged once in awhile. That's why I reinforced my rail. You cant get in trouble for having it to strong. The downrigger arm with brake first.
 
Congrats on the new boat, Tom! :thup Since Tom gave you his opinion on most of your questions, I'll hit the others...

#5 You are correct: one tank, two fillers. Both lead to the same tank. Just makes it more convenient when fueling up.

#7 To drain the fresh water tank, you can either run the water out with the pump or disconnect the line to the tank and let the water flow into the bilge and pump it out with the bilge pump. Our tank (should be the same as yours) also has a fitting on the port side for draining. If you are draining all the water out of the boat for storage or winterizing, be sure to drain the water heater. On our boat, that drains into the shower box (under the floor of the aft storage cabinet on the port side). When storing, we put some of the pink RV antifreeze in that showerbox and in the toilet bowl (keeps the seal lubed). Don't put the antifreeze stuff in the water heater - it will take 6 gallons AND foam endlessly when you later drain it and refill. Alternatively, you can disconnect the line from the pump and blow out the water lines with a compressor and the faucets open.

Enjoy the new boat!

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
#7: we added a tee and installed a PVC valve on the inlet side of the water tank. This way you can drain it every weekend and start your day with fresh water. We also keep the water heater on the boat so it's to your best interest to use the hot water side of the faucet. This way you always are cycling the water out of the tank.
 
Congrats on your C-25. Everyone else will answer your questions and they're doing it well. What I wanted to say, is that you have the best boat in which to cruise Vancouver Isle. Enjoy it.

Campbell River is a beautiful place, and as you know, it's also in the middle of Vancouver Isle. Great place from which to start your cruise(s.)

Boris
 
To add to the fuel tank question--on your boat there should be just the fuel tank in this compartment. Originally there was a poly propylene tank, and at least one leaked. The factory went to Aluminum. Because of geometry, the venting when filling the tank was poor, and it was difficult to fill the tank in the earlier C Dory 25's. Thus they added the second fill. It was to allow venting, rather than just convince. You will fill the tank easier and safer if you crack the second fill to allow air to escape.
 
I don't have the answers but congratulations on a beauty (the Duncan one?)
Love that aft steering station too.
 
Don't put the antifreeze stuff in the water heater - it will take 6 gallons AND foam endlessly when you later drain it and refill...
Click to expand...
I purchased a bi-pass system at a local RV shop. Basically two brass valves w/ a stainless braided line in between. One of each valve goes to the cold "in" and hot "out" ports w/ the line joining them. Come winter I open the overpressure valve, open the drain valve and let the water drain out the shower bilge box. I then close each bi-pass valve which basically blocks anti-freeze from entering the heater and it is by-passed into the "hot" water line.

Most others have answered. The transom of your boat should be cored w/ the pink foam vs wood. My 2007 has the foam core material, so yours should to. Per Matt @ Kitsap Marine; no need to drill, plug w/ epoxy and re-set screws w/ the foam as it does not absorb water. Just seat them w/ 3M 4200 or similar.
 
Many thanks to all of you who responded. Your input is great..........that's what makes this site great.......people helping others with a common passion.

Boris: You may not remember but we met at the boat ramp in CR when I was pulling Icarus 22 out one day. We had a good chat.

A Fishin C: Yes, the Duncan one and thanks to you pasting the link on this site because I missed it when it was originally posted. Hope to see you out on the water someday.....I owe you a beer!

Everyone: Keep your ideas coming. The downrigger thing has got me in a dilemma.

Cheers, :beer
Tom
 
Localboy: I saw your reply late. Are you saying that there is a foam core in the hull and transome in the 2008 CD25 and not a balsa core?
I can see why the factory did not use sealant if that is the case.
 
Tom on Icarus":14hi99qv said:
Localboy: I saw your reply late. Are you saying that there is a foam core in the hull and transome in the 2008 CD25 and not a balsa core?
I can see why the factory did not use sealant if that is the case.
Click to expand...

Yes. It's a pink foam. If you look in my album under swim step repair you'll see a pic. Don't know what yr they switched but I asked the same question of Matt @ Kitsap Marine when we bought the boat and he assured me, it's a foam core and does not absorb water. I still seal anything I mount there (like my transducer) w/ 4200.
 
Looks like the scotty mount problem is not so much as the strength of the rail but the ability to keep it from slipping (rotating) under load. The starboard should solve that problem!

Charlie
 
I believe the 25 uses the same oversize rails as the Tomcat and they are plenty sturdy to support a Scotty Down rigger mount. However, the Scotty rail mount is mediocre IMHO. The board to the outside edge is needed to keep it from rotating that direction and the mounts are designed to be installed that way. I found mine would occasionally rotate the other direction when I was lifting the arm up and I prevented this using a rubber coated U-bolt that passes around a vertical support rail and bolts (with wing nuts) into the support board. Still I find these rail mounts a PITA to take on and off and it's very easy to lose the nuts into the water. I still have mine and use them for pot puller use or for a BBQ mount, but I installed two flat deck plates on the aft corners for my primary down rigger mounts. Easier to use (with the 8" high towers) and they don't interfere with the canvas.
 
Hey! Watch it there!

starcrafttom":1lmgcns1 said:
#
#4 define easy?? Not being a smart ass, this time, but what some people find easy to do on a boat others deem impossible. I found it easy to install a windlass in the bow others have a hard time changing a tire, you know who you are. :wink:
Click to expand...
 
Thanks folks for all your input. Things are becoming clearer.

One thing that I am not totally clear on is the core material in the hull and transom. Localboy says it is pink foam. Others refere to the balsa core. Does anyone else out there with a 2008 CD25 know what is in there?

Cheers :beer
Tom
 
Very timely question for us all. T'is the time to prepare for the 'freeze'.

Being a great procrastinator after buying the hot water bi-pass kit... I still have not installed it.

So, to winterize I did the lazy method. Buy 7 gals of antifreeze. While on the work rack with shore power and the charger ON:

I pump ONLY the sink Cold water out till the faucet 'sputters', turn it OFF, leaving the hot water tank.

I add the 6 gals of 'pink' antifreeze through the water tank fill.

I open the sink Cold till I see the antifreeze steadily come out, then close it.

I then open the shower Cold till it shows 'pink'. There is enough pink antifreeze in the system to now do the hot shower and sink.

The last gal of antifreeze is used as a fill for the heads holding tank after I have it pumped out for the season. Usually I only need abt 1/2 gal here. The rest is for as needed. Normally I have last years 1/2 gal left so it can be used for the holding tank till get another as needed.

I don't think the amount of antifreeze is wasteful for this climate, but still definately more than needed; even with it being slightly deluted.

So, nothing going into the bilges and the originally sealed water fittings are still intact. In the spring I reverse the process, except for the head.

Art
 
Great plan Art! I did it even lazier! I'm keeping Captain's Cat in my neighbors heated steel building and not winterizing at all! Unless someone wants to buy it of course!

When I DID winterize it, I drained the water heater into the drain box, made sure it was empty (it does have a drain on it, at least mine did) then poured a gallon of pink stuff into the holding tank, one gallon into the shower drain (the drain pump came on), a half gallon into each bilge (I have two on a TC) a half gallon into each fish box, and two gallons into the water tank (after emptying it with the pump). Pink all over the place. Got too expensive to do with Gin and besides, the olives wouldn't get through the pumps... :roll:

Charlie
 
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