Questions re hot surge brakes

I understand that Colby has very limited use of the Electromagnetic brakes in salt water, where the backing plate, parts of the brake shoe articulating mechanism, and the shoes themselves can rust fairly quickly. To "flush" these systems, means a dedicated nozzle inside the backing plate which spray salt-a-way or fresh water in reasonable volumes on the. drums, backing plate and articulating surface. For most boaters it is far easier to just rinse off the open disc brakes.
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The thing is, if you have drum brakes, rather electric or hydraulic, you have to deal with the issue above. Same if you have cheap discs that are not SS. I did have a fresh water rinse system I fabricated on Midnight Flyer's trailer that did rinse the brakes from inside the drums. And used it meticulously when dunking in salt or after driving on salted roads. I'd guess most boaters don't rinse off the open disc brakes either... or flush the hydraulic fluid, or maintain the actuator.... again it all comes down to maintenance. 8) :wink: Colby
 
drbridge":1mqg76sn said:
Can anyone give me specs / where to purchase a diode that is appropriate for The electric Lock out modification?
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Yes, Here is a diode which will prevent the back up lights from coming one when you put a cut out switch on the lock out circuit.

One would only want to use this with a steep down grade, and with the option that you can always kick the brakes back on with flipping the switch.

You don't really need this large a diode, but on the other hand, it is not expensive and designed for a similar application.
 
Bob, you are very close --
"As I understand Harvey's proposal, he will keep the surge brakes on the rear axle. If he has a long down grade, he will put the pin back in the surge coupler, to disable the surge brakes, and possible overheating of the disc/hub/grease. There is no controller for surge brakes, they only work by the truck braking (engine or brakes), and the forward pressure of the weight of the trailer allows the coupler to slide forward, putting pressure in the hydraulic cylinder, thus slowing the trailer.

The in cab controller is controlled by the truck's braking system, or can be controlled manually. For any load over 6800# in parts of Canada a system which has in cab braking control is mandatory. The electro magnetic brakes will be used by Harvey when descending grades. When he is back on the level, and not backing, the lock out pin on the surge blade coupler will be removed and the surge brakes will then be in play.

Can it be done? Certainly. The issue I see is the forgetting to put the pin in or pull the pin out. Maybe a red flag on the steering wheel as a reminder????"
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But in stead of a pin to completely lock out the surge system, just use the manual in cab control to add brake. That would hold the trailers weight off the surge activator. On very long descents, the manual electric could provide braking and then be switch off to allow the surge to take the load, then go back to the manual. This would allow both systems to have a cooling period IF, the surge would release enough off the disc to allow that.

Right now, as I understand it the surge system does not have a release from the disc and continues to drag, just does not apply braking force top the disc.

Since I only have brakes on one axle now, I need to upgrade to both axles. This seems like a reasonable way to go. Maybe.....???

No pin to pull or forget, and braking can be done with either or both systems simultaneously.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Harvey, I am a little surprised that your discs are dragging. Any drag applies breaking force, and heats up the rotors. You should not really need much trailer braking force. I didn't with the GMC Yukon XL, the Ford Excursion Diesel, and certainly not now with the engine exhaust brake/transmission retarder on the F 250.

I don't know how much "cooling off" there would be if your brakes are dragging. The brake pads will wear.

I thought the idea was to avoid the heat build up in the surge brakes..What you are doing is all braking is done with trailer brakes???--if you are constantly dragging the electric solenoid brakes.

Heck give it a try--but be sure and put on a good wash down system to get all of the drum and wiring clear of salt water....
 
Brakes are supposed to get hot folks. With that said calipers do stick and it could very well be the problem if they are getting hot for no apparent reason.
 
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