Quick anchor question

moabarch

New member
I've read through a bunch of the old talk on anchors and plan to just get a Delta - but I see some folks have a 14# and some have a 22# for the 25 Cruisers. The chart you see when you buy the anchor says a 14# is right. Any quick input before I order an anchor? Also, any suggestions on the best places to buy a chain/rode combo? (Of course, the length of chain is another whole matter that been discussed at length, also).
 
mosbarch-

The 14 is adequate if you anchor in sand, mud, gravel, rocks, and whatever with a good length of chain and adequate scope, all according to Hoyle and the textbooks.

However, if you can't always get the necessary scope, anchor in steep walled reservoirs or places where anchoring is difficult, or are basically inclined toward over protectiveness, the 22 is your peace (or piece) of mind anti-E-Ticket Rx.

I buy a lot of stuff on eBay, just to save money. Internet shopping pays off as long as you purchase things that are simple and not subject to malfunction or warranty issues. Many things can be found for half price if you invest some time searching.

I bought a virtually unused Simpson Lawrence Horizon Express 1500 brute of a windlass for my Sea Ray for $305 on eBay, less than half that of a similar Horizon 600 at retail: Twice the dice at half the price....works for me!

Be sure you ask about returning any defective item for a refund, etc.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Tom,

You'll be very happy with the Delta. I am a firm believer in sizing the anchor up one notch. IMHO, the 22# would work great on your 25. I, personally, would put 100' of 1/4" chain on the tackle, minimum of 50'.

Warren on the Lori Ann found a place in Seattle with reasonably priced Hi-Test.
 
Do you have a windlass? This would affect my decision about the rode, specifically the length of chain and the weight of the anchor.

I use a 22lb Delta on Napoleon with 25' of chain spliced to 275' of line. I prefer this arrangement for the stretch factor and to reduce bow weight. In some cases a lot of chain for rode will create weight loading issues forward.
 
Matt,

Good point! I sometimes over-generalize. :oops:
With these under the rear seat, 300#. I need all the weight forward that I can get.
P5150001.sized.jpg
 
I have a windlass - Lewmar Pro 700 - which I understand takes 1/4" chain and 1/2" rode.
It seems I've read somewhere where there are better deals to get the chain and rode rigged than West Marine. I'll be coming to Seattle sometime in the next two months - it would be nice to get something there to bring home with me, ready for Lake Powell. Next summer will be spent on Puget Sound and points north.

Thanks for all the input.
 
Delta 14#, 50 ft of 1/4" chain and 250' of 3 strand. Haven't had an issue yet, as long as we have enough room for the required scope/swing.
 
I use Defender for both the chain and anchor line. Their prices are low and the shipping isn't too bad. Remember you'll need HT chain with a Lewmar. And if'n you don't want to do the chain to line splice, order over the telephone, and (for a price) they'll splice it for you.

With the price of gasoline today, ordering by Internet is a lot cheaper. Especially from where we are, out in the tulies.

Boris
 
journey on":fat02rre said:
With the price of gasoline today, ordering by Internet is a lot cheaper. Especially from where we are, out in the tulies.

Boris

Valley Center is the tulies? Too hot and too dry for those. Especially today, Boris.

Don
 
I have a 14 and 22 lb Delta and have used both on my 25. The only difference is the amount of rode to put out. The only time I have drug was a short rode using the 22 with some pretty bad winds. That was before I put on another 15 feet of chain (45 feet now) with 400 feet of 9/16 3 strand. My favorite way to anchor is in 12 feet of water at high tide with the chain/rode splice just showing.
 
The 22 is what the factory recommended when we ordered our CD-25. VERY pleased with it, in a very wide variety of bottoms and situations. We, too, have always gone one size up from the recommendations... especially so with a boat like the C-Dory that has a lot of windage

:thup :thup for the Delta 22#.

50' of chain, 200' of rode. I prefer a 7:1 scope, more if the weather looks iffy. We carry a danforth as a secondary.

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
Tom (on Bidarka),

Seeing that you are in Alaska, I'm wondering where you end up at LOW tide when anchoring in 12' of water at high tide. :shock:

Roger
 
Roger,

If I know the bottom and my math is correct, I will go down to 2-3 feet (at 2 feet I bring the motor up). I miscalculated once and came back to the boat in the dinghy and my wife had put the motor up. I asked why and she said check the depth. I had paddled back 100 yards or so, and I am pretty sure I could have walked back in 12 inches or so of water. With the eel grass you couldn't see the bottom.

Tom
 
I'll vote for the 22lb anchor. We use a 22lb bruce on our 25. My favourite way to anchor for a comfortable night is using about a 12 to one scope in about 3 feet of water works great when the tide is right!
High_and_dry_loving_it.jpg

Got to love these flat bottom boats.
 
Yes, flat bottoms are the best when you might be worrying about how much water will be left at low tide. Nice picture, by the way.
 
We use a 25# Mansion Supreme, with a 6# Fortress Guardian as a backup.

The Mansion is an excellent anchor, and I have been very satisfied with it here on the Central California Coast, San Francisco Bay, and the Delta. The Fortress is lightweight and folds up fairly flat, although the screws need to be tightened from time to time. Due to it being so lightweight it could be tossed and used to pull myself back out of mud if I trolled into an area that was too shallow.

The 15# one can technically be used, but is not preferred. The extra weight is well worth it, both in terms of an emergency, as well as letting me sleep better when at anchor. As others have pointed out aft weight is more of an issue then a few pounds at the bow.

Beware of stainless anchors, or other anchors so expensive that they might tempt you to try and recover them in unsafe conditions.

Also, use caution with stainless chain; it tends to not show visible signs of wear or stress until it fractures suddenly.

David
 
Tom,
The picture is in Home Bay on Jedidiah Island provincial marine park. This is a marine park just west of the southern part of Texada Island which is the largest of the northern Gulf Islands. You would have gone past part of Texada (east side) on your way to Princess Louisa. A lot of folks stop at Smuggler cove or Pender Harbour on their way north to Desolation, PL , the Broughtons and Alaska, but very few stop at Jedidiah. Jedidiah is an absolutely great little island to visit. The whole island is a park, probably a mile or so wide by maybe 2 long with lots of bays to anchor in and trails to hike. Consider using it as a stop when you head to the Broughtons. I don't think you'd be disappointed. We anchor in Home bay where it is too shallow for almost any other boat and have the bay to ourselves. Of course we may have to wait on the tide to leave again.
The picture below shows how all the money spent on an expensive anchor wench can really help out in shallow water anchoring situations. :lol:

Proper_C_Dory_anchoring_technique.jpg
 
I've used a Manson for the last couple of years. It's a great anchor where you need a sharp point to dig in, such as the seaweed at Santa Cruz Island. However when we anchored in mud, as in parts of the San Juans, which had a muddy bottom, I had to go back to the Bruce.

The 6# Fortress is a sturdy anchor, and I had one of those. You might try using it first, since it's light and has a hard time digging in. I had a 16# Fortress and it came with small blocks, which one would attach to make sure it dug into mud.

I'm becoming coming convinced that the "old" type anchor, the Danforth, is the best for all around use.

Boris
 
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