RACOR Fuel Filter

J

journey on

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Journey On has a RACOR fuel filter between the gas tank and the engine. As far as I know, every C-Dory that has a built in gas tank (C-25, TomCat, Venture,) has at least one of these.

To go into more detail, the RACOR element P/N is S3240. It screws into the fuel head, and then a sediment bowl screws into the bottom of the element. Works well, at least until I try to change them.

This year, the element came off the head, but I couldn't get the bowl off the element. Cut the filter open (try that with a gasoline filter,) and the black plastic ring was stuck in the transparent bowl. Broke the ring, still wouldn't come out.

So, has anybody else had that problem?

Called RACOR, in Modesto, Ca. Phone No. 800-344-3286, on the new filter. Yep, that happens, and their engineers are working on a fix. That's been for over a year. Well, they said they'd send me a new bowl and filter, which is SOP.

Just thought I'd mention it to see if there's another solution.

Boris
 
not yet
I changed the S3213 filter last winter and applied purple marine grease to the bowl and element threads. RACOR did released a new O ring and it is green instead of black. I posted on this item earlier and it's in the archives.
 
Very common problem....here's a solution.

Stick metal bowl firmly in vice (don't bend it though). Take a giant pipe wrench - i.e. 18" long - grab a hold and twist it off. This works for me every time. You will never get it off with an oil filter wrench.

I coat the rubber gasket with motor oil and make sure not to twist it on too tight at the start of the season but they always seize up.
 
I have a plastic bowl. Maybe it is more common issue with metal bowls or folks are over tightening. I removed the bowl easliy with strap wrench
 
Problem is that Boris has the plastic bowl--and these are the problem type--not the metal bowls.

I put silicone grease on the threads of the plastic bowl when I thread it on the filter.

If it is getting stuck--either it it too tight, or you are waiting too long between intervals to change out the filter....

Good to hear that Racor is standing up to support the product.

I am not sure that all of the older boats have Racors--some may have engine specific filters--which often have Sierra replacements.
 
I had the exact problem last year (1st time changing the filter) - i used the bench vise and carefully got it off. This year I was able to remove both by hand because I had only hand tightened the filters last year. I just did that this morning expecting problems, but I either got stronger or did it right last year.
 
I too cut into the filter. Once I peeled away the metal I gradually cut imto the plastic threads joining to the bowl in one little section with a stanley knife very carefully so as not to disturb bowl threads. Then picked out remaining threads giveing me a little room to compress the thread ring Simple as that! Never once did I doubt I was going to shorten up another digit on my allready deficient left hand, but I had antiseptic unleaded so I was safe there. Vern/C-Dog
 
Well, as Verne and Brazo noted above, the only way to separate the black ring from the bowl is to cut the ring into segments and peel it off. If I remember correctly ( who knows?) I used silicone grease last year. Either not enough, or that was a waste of time.

We'll wait and see if RACOR sends a new bowl,as the old one is sorta scratched up. And they've only been working on the fix for a year.

Boris
 
After dealing with that issue once now I loosen and retighten the bowl every year. Dunno if it will really keep them from welding together but that's the theory.
 
after searching for Racor for another problem/question. But, I will say that I was JUST barely able to pry my metal bowl away from the filter this afternoon on the boat. Did not have to resort to the vice (11 miles away), but was one step away.
 
My unit is the white metal Racor one (gas engine), with metal bowl. Filter cannister is S3228TUL.

The instructions for replacing the cannister tell me to fill the new cannister with gasoline before screwing it on. I did not do this when replacing my filter this afternoon. Instead, I figured I would bleed the air from the system using what appeared to be a hex-head bleeder screw (9/16) on the mount.

Well, I could not get any air or gas to come out of the bleeder screw, despite running the engine for about 5 minutes. The engine ran initially (apparently off residual fuel left in lines), then died multiple times (apparently it ran out of said residual fuel), then re-started and ran fine(apparently as new fuel ran through the lines).

So now my questions are, do I still need to bleed the system? And, if so, what was I doing wrong with the bleeder screw to make it not spit any air or fuel over the course of 5 minutes?
 
I have never added fuel or bleed my system and I change my fuel filters at the start of every season. The fuel pumps seem to do their job pretty quickly.
 
i too have never bled the system when changing the filter. I have what sounds like the same filter. When you pump the bulb you are first filling the filter.
 
matt_unique":16lnu2rq said:
I have never added fuel or bleed my system and I change my fuel filters at the start of every season. The fuel pumps seem to do their job pretty quickly.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, that makes me feel a little better. But after researching this a little more last night (and getting worried), I have to ask: what happens to the air in a filter that you don't fill with gas or bleed?
 
Well, RACOR did come through with a new plastic filter bowl.

The air in the bowl and lines gets sucked into the engine and then bled off via a couple of designed in bleed points, if you don't bleed it out first. Air going through the injectors causes a lot of havoc, so they bleed it out automatically.

I bleed the fuel system first, though. The first fuel pump in a 150 Honda is a low pressure mechanical pump, which has positive suction and feeds the high pressure electric pump. I just don't want the chance of the engine not getting fuel and dying when I start it in God knows where. The C-Dory people gave me 2 ea fuel lines, one for the main engine and one for the kicker. I cut the kicker line and put a brass coupler in there. When I want to bleed the fuel line, I remove the kicker end, attach a hand pump, give it a couple of pumps and when gas comes out, it's bled. I use a Beckson Siphon Mate Transfer Pump.

One additional comment. I installed a fuel flow meter, which is a little turbine, in the fuel line to tell me how much gas I was using. It died a year or so ago, and they wanted ~$100 for a replacement. I blew some air through it, and got a reading on the gauge. So I guess it just got stuck or crapped up, and we'll see if it comes back to life.

Boris
 
Now I hope this helps others when they are trying to get that expensive Racor plastic sight bowl off the old filter.


I changed my Racor s3240 filter element and clear plastic bowl today. I purposefully bought a new bowl because of the bad things I read about changing them out.

I put lots of motor oil on red o ring and grease on threads of bowl and mating threads on filter. Only tightened hand tight.

After success on changing filter, priming with fuel and starting both motors decided to try and get old plastic filter bowl off old, rusty filter.

Put old filter in bench vise and took large jawed filter pliers and turned plastic bowl easy enough. Problem was that threads were locked into plastic bowl but broke away from metal filter and whole thing turned.

So decided to drill a small hole near base of filter and screwed in a sheet metal screw hoping to immobilized threads in base of filter. Locked back into vise and put filter pliers back on plastic bowl and SUCCESS! Plastic bowl turned and unscrewed off threads.

Now I just need to clean out the old sight bowl and have a spare.
 
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