Re-Bedding Fixtures and an Apology

D

Donald Tyson

Member
I need to begin the process of re-bedding all the common fixtures on my boat and I'm wondering which type you prefer? Life Caulk, 5200, 4200, 3200 and 2200 (just testing)
I've used almost all the above but which would you choose?

Now for the Apology: Since joining this group I've read where many owners have re-bedded all of their fixtures. Some did this immediately upon acquiring their New-To-Them boat. Privately I said to myself what a bunch of hoity toity perfectionist's I've joined (I mean re-bedding the whole boat?). Well Well, over the last 3 days I began to more carefully clean and scrub Thistle and OMG. Many of the fixtures show signs of weathering of the bedding that protruded and some had very little visible bedding. Again I'm so thankful to be a member here. Besides the friendships I've made, the benefits are endless. So if you were one of the folks I mumbled about under my breath please accept my apology.

Don
 
Donald Tyson":sxdae8hl said:
I need to begin the process of re-bedding all the common fixtures on my boat and I'm wondering which type you prefer? Life Caulk, 5200, 4200, 3200 and 2200 (just testing)
I've used almost all the above but which would you choose?

Now for the Apology: Since joining this group I've read where many owners have re-bedded all of their fixtures. Some did this immediately upon acquiring their New-To-Them boat. Privately I said to myself what a bunch of hoity toity perfectionist's I've joined (I mean re-bedding the whole boat?). Well Well, over the last 3 days I began to more carefully clean and scrub Thistle and OMG. Many of the fixtures show signs of weathering of the bedding that protruded and some had very little visible bedding. Again I'm so thankful to be a member here. Besides the friendships I've made, the benefits are endless. So if you were one of the folks I mumbled about under my breath please accept my apology.

Don
Click to expand...

I use 5200! Never an issue never leaks!
People that whine about removal of fixtures/hatches etc. don't know how to use a heat gun! :mrgreen: :roll: :thup
 
I too am not familiar with a heat gun. How do you employ that in favor of bedding?

I use 5200! Never an issue never leaks!
People that whine about removal of fixtures/hatches etc. don't know how to use a heat gun! :mrgreen: :roll: :thup[/quote]
 
Donald Tyson":2y8f8pnf said:
I too am not familiar with a heat gun. How do you employ that in favor of bedding?

I use 5200! Never an issue never leaks!
People that whine about removal of fixtures/hatches etc. don't know how to use a heat gun! :mrgreen: :roll: :thup
Click to expand...
[/quote]

That refers to 5200 being too difficult to remove a fixture in
the future. If you warm up the fixture / area with a heat gun
it comes off easy. Heat gun for shrink tube in the electrical /
plumbing industry.
 
Two reasons for re-bedding, one us to prevent leaks. The second is to prevent core rot. This means if the deck or cabin side/top, has a core, the hole should be into an epoxy plug.

Several times when i have re-bedded the forward hatch, I found the cutout was too big. Thus as well as cutting back core, and and adding glass to the inside rim of the cutout.
 
4200 if you not sure you want it there and may move it. 5200 if you now you want it there for ever.

Regardless of which you use make sure you ruff up the glass surface first. Other wise the 5200 or 4200 might not bind as well as it should. I tape off the area, sand it some, clean with alcohol, dry area completely them apply 5200.
 
Well to do a thru deck hole right takes a few steps. If you are cutting thru glass with a wood core you want to make sure your bolts dont crush the glass and core.

so from memory, whats left of it.
1. drill hole
2. back cut the core ( the material between the glass) at least twice the size of the hole. If its a 1/2 inch home from center back cut 1 inch from center.
3. tape off the bottom of the hole and fill form top with your favorite epoxy. I like epoxy with strands of glass in it. If I have two holes close together I might back cut to connect the two and 1 inch around the area. ( in a perfect world)
4. once the area epoxy hardens re drill the hole. If its going to be some thing with a lot of stress, like a cleat or a downrigger bracket, I would cut a backing place of alum or better yet stain less for the back side. make it a large as you have room for. My down rigger mounts backings on my 22 where a ft long under the gunnels to spread out the stress. Then large washers if needed for the top side. If its a cup holder then not needed.
5. Now that the hole is sealed and strong enough not to crush the core when you tighten down the bolt ( never meet a bolt that did not need another twist) You can apply 5200 to seal it.

Hope that helps with any thur bolted projects.
 
In addition to a heat gun I suggest using DeBond Marine Formula to remove cured polyurethane (e.g. 5200 or others). I found that it really works. Heat the item so you can remove it and then used DeBond to clean up the stuff stuck on. Follow instruction and score the caulk to allow the solvent to penetrate. The caulk can be removed with a plastic razor like scraper without scratching the finish.
 
When I re-bed I will do it right, I have done it before, but with one exception...I did not remove the core back to twice the size as mentioned. I don't want to do this type of work twice especially when considering the potential damage done when it's done wrong or when it fails.
While the old poly is tough I had no problem removing the old polysulfide with a razor. The kind that painters use to scrape glass.

Not sure I'll do it but I saw recently how a man repaired the core when it rotted btwn fixture holes and he did the epoxy fill of the whole area.

I just read about the remarkable properties of DeBond and I believe it will be used in my future projects.

I've built two small boats over the years and Raka Marine Epoxy is my latest brand. It seems to hold up okay. I also used System Three and West Systmem. If money were no object I guess I'd mostly go with West as I like their packaging and quantities. But I like them all.

What epoxies do you like and why?
 
I have mostly used West Systems products. I am comfortable with properties of all of the various additives. When I first used epoxies in any large amount I used "shell chemical" 1 part epoxy to 1 party hardener. I bought 10 gallons, (two 5 gallon buckets) for about $100. For 30 gallons of resin, it was about $200. That was about 50 years ago.
 
I've had very good results with butyl rubber for re bedding cleats and handrails. This is after over drilling and filling the original holes with epoxy. The butyl rubber does not dry out or crack and can be easily removed.

I've also had very good results with the West System Six10 in the caulking tube. The two parts mix in the mixing nozzle and it comes out thick enough not to sag and at it will also wet out nicely. You can also just dispense a little amount without using the mixer for a small job. Yes it's expensive.
 
I'll have a look.



Clewless":1rkc01w6 said:
I've had very good results with butyl rubber for re bedding cleats and handrails. This is after over drilling and filling the original holes with epoxy. The butyl rubber does not dry out or crack and can be easily removed.

I've also had very good results with the West System Six10 in the caulking tube. The two parts mix in the mixing nozzle and it comes out thick enough not to sag and at it will also wet out nicely. You can also just dispense a little amount without using the mixer for a small job. Yes it's expensive.
Click to expand...
 
mstrpo,


I'm new to the idea of using a product described of as "tape" for bedding. So I went to a site called marinehowto.com. Seems like cheating....I want to play. While I manage with 5200 and some other polys I do tend to make a mess. Thanks, looks like it was meant for me.


mstrpo":1witi1cl said:
I used Bed-It Tape (https://bed-it.com/) when I added cleats to my boat. It is reputed to last longer than butyl tape.
Click to expand...
 
The reason I asked about coring is that I'm about to instal a Carver Bimini. The mounting hardware consists of #10 x 1" screws. This would normally be plenty for fiberglass but in this case it be drilled through gelcoat, gelcoat that I don't want to crack. The manufacturer does not call for bedding products and I see no need for it either if the deck does not have core.
Thoughts on this?
 
Donald Tyson":1dw2fmkb said:
The reason I asked about coring is that I'm about to instal a Carver Bimini. The mounting hardware consists of #10 x 1" screws. This would normally be plenty for fiberglass but in this case it be drilled through gelcoat, gelcoat that I don't want to crack. The manufacturer does not call for bedding products and I see no need for it either if the deck does not have core.
Thoughts on this?
Click to expand...

I don't know about th ecoring, but if I was doing it, I would try to through bolt it if at all possible. You can take out the side bins to get to the underside of the gunwale. If you are going to through drill, I'd be careful about the wire bundle that is on the starboard side.
 
Thanks, Yes I'll Watch that.



ssobol":33rbxp7h said:
Donald Tyson":33rbxp7h said:
The reason I asked about coring is that I'm about to instal a Carver Bimini. The mounting hardware consists of #10 x 1" screws. This would normally be plenty for fiberglass but in this case it be drilled through gelcoat, gelcoat that I don't want to crack. The manufacturer does not call for bedding products and I see no need for it either if the deck does not have core.
Thoughts on this?
Click to expand...

I don't know about th ecoring, but if I was doing it, I would try to through bolt it if at all possible. You can take out the side bins to get to the underside of the gunwale. If you are going to through drill, I'd be careful about the wire bundle that is on the starboard side.
Click to expand...
 
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