Re-doing the non-skid of cockpit floor
- Thread starter haliman
- Start date
There are quite a few options. Here are a few I have used or seen used:
1) Sand
2) Interlux non-skid "beads"
3) Walnut shells
4) Interlux Interdeck (one-part paint with non-skid incorporated)
5) Kiwi Grip (coating with non-skid incorporated)
6) Treadmaster (a rubbery mat you glue down)
7) Gibco flex mold (they have molds to duplicate certain stock patterns, typically with gelcoat as the medium).
Normally, I like to remove whatever is left of the original non-skid if re-doing it (if more than just a small patch). Some additives are more or less "aggressive" than others, which may be more or less suitable depending on ratio of deck work to, say, kneeling or sitting around in shorts.
1) Sand
2) Interlux non-skid "beads"
3) Walnut shells
4) Interlux Interdeck (one-part paint with non-skid incorporated)
5) Kiwi Grip (coating with non-skid incorporated)
6) Treadmaster (a rubbery mat you glue down)
7) Gibco flex mold (they have molds to duplicate certain stock patterns, typically with gelcoat as the medium).
Normally, I like to remove whatever is left of the original non-skid if re-doing it (if more than just a small patch). Some additives are more or less "aggressive" than others, which may be more or less suitable depending on ratio of deck work to, say, kneeling or sitting around in shorts.
Having done non skid on boat decks for many years--a few comments: Sand it very aggressive (I wore thru the seat of the pants of a brand new foul weather gear set during the first night of a TransPac race.) Walnut shell grindings are also too aggressive for a full cockpit--I used these on companionway steps, set in epoxy and coated with another epoxy layer. This look good on teak.
The glass beads are excellent, but you do need to use something like Sterling or Awlgrip, with the beads in the first coat rolled on, and then a second coat without the beads to seal them in properly. Other paints will work but you will end up re-dong the paint fairly often. Mix the beads or other non skid material into the paint, not sprinkle on.
The Kiwi Grip has a good reputation--there are other similar deck coatings which are used around pools. Do a Google search and see what you think--many of these are latex based and probably will not hold up as well on the boat.
Durabak #18 is a bed liner type of material made for rolling on. I have several friends who have used this on their trawler and been very happy.
Other bed liner materials have been used, some sprayed on. Check on the non skid properties of each if you are considering.
On the C Dory 25 where we redid the cockpit, we mixed gel coat with cabosil (fumed silica) to thicken it and give a non skid surface.
On the C Dories which have no floor boards, many of us have used dry deck and then put industrial foam floor mats over the top. We did this on our first 22 (1993). Our current 22 has removable floor boards, and the non skid is still in excellent condition.
Does your boat have floor boards, or a raised tabbed in floor? I believe that by 2008 the 22's had the permeant floor--not sure about the 19's.
The glass beads are excellent, but you do need to use something like Sterling or Awlgrip, with the beads in the first coat rolled on, and then a second coat without the beads to seal them in properly. Other paints will work but you will end up re-dong the paint fairly often. Mix the beads or other non skid material into the paint, not sprinkle on.
The Kiwi Grip has a good reputation--there are other similar deck coatings which are used around pools. Do a Google search and see what you think--many of these are latex based and probably will not hold up as well on the boat.
Durabak #18 is a bed liner type of material made for rolling on. I have several friends who have used this on their trawler and been very happy.
Other bed liner materials have been used, some sprayed on. Check on the non skid properties of each if you are considering.
On the C Dory 25 where we redid the cockpit, we mixed gel coat with cabosil (fumed silica) to thicken it and give a non skid surface.
On the C Dories which have no floor boards, many of us have used dry deck and then put industrial foam floor mats over the top. We did this on our first 22 (1993). Our current 22 has removable floor boards, and the non skid is still in excellent condition.
Does your boat have floor boards, or a raised tabbed in floor? I believe that by 2008 the 22's had the permeant floor--not sure about the 19's.
I used Kiwi Grip on a small skiff a few years ago. It was *VERY* easy to use and apply. In my case, it was just a tad on the dry side, and as such, made for a pretty aggressive finish. If you make it "wetter" before applying, the sharp points will settle out more. Best to test some on a piece of cardboard first.
My cockpit does not have a raised floor. I wonder if I can order the raised floor panels from the company. Went rock fishing a few times this year and standing on the slanted cockpit all day long was tough on the legs end of day. Guessing having a level cockpit floor would make it easier on the legs?
It would not hurt to try and find out if the current owners have a mold for floorboards. The option is to make your own. I would probably core with Nadi Core (light weight) and cover with a couple of layers one 1808 glass on the top and one layer of 1208 glass on the bottom. The floors I have rest on the front and back edges as well as the center and outside. (no ribs). If you use plywood, then consider at least one, or two ribs.
Using one of the industrial type of foam mats would be easier on the feet. Also they can be removed from the boat for washing if you wanted. I guess I don't notice angles of the floor, since I spent most of my life on sail boats where the angle was often significant.
Using one of the industrial type of foam mats would be easier on the feet. Also they can be removed from the boat for washing if you wanted. I guess I don't notice angles of the floor, since I spent most of my life on sail boats where the angle was often significant.
haliman":1igf65o5 said:
When I visited the builders two summers ago (Triton up north of Bellingham) they did have the molds for the separate floorboards for the 19 (but not for the 22). So perhaps they would make you a set? That said, I have a set of the optional floorboards for my 22 (from back in the early- to mid-2000's when they were sold new) and although they look good and function well, they were not well made, and as a result I had to choose between re-building mine or just making some from scratch. After digging further into the worst one, I think I'm going to just make some on my own.
Now if they are making you a set custom, you could talk over the construction methods with them and they might be better. As I said, they do look nice and function well. OTOH, they do make the cockpit sides feel slightly lower and less sheltering, if that's important to you. Then too, the flat surface of the floorboards is nice for chairs and keeps the sole above any water.
Gonna go with the industrial mat idea and get some light gray marine paint. After checking cockpit floor it really just needs some paint not a whole re-do. The floor board idea is out - Got a quote from Northwest Marine and they want $1,500.00 for the floor boards. Pocketbook is not that big.
Thanks for all the great ideas!!!!!!!
Thanks for all the great ideas!!!!!!!
I have used Kiwi-Grip on our boat. Although it has only been on one season, I am pleased with it. My brother and others he knows have used it on their boats too, also with good results.
It is easy to prep & apply and one can vary the degree of roughness or grip by using more product and varying drying time and application. By varying the technique it's possible to install a "non-skid" you can actually walk on barefoot! I even installed some on the rear port seat on our 25 and you can still sit on the seat...without a cushion. Pics in our album if you're curious, but it really is as simple as rough up w/ sand paper/3M pad, clean w/ de-greaser...slap some product on and roll it out.
It seems to hold up well to traffic, if applied correctly. My brother's boat is stored outdoors and this is his third season with it. For a water-based product it's surprisingly tough yet clean up is a breeze; soap & warm water.
You an also easily patch it if required, although the color may be slightly off due to fading (solar). I am totally happy w/ the product.
It is easy to prep & apply and one can vary the degree of roughness or grip by using more product and varying drying time and application. By varying the technique it's possible to install a "non-skid" you can actually walk on barefoot! I even installed some on the rear port seat on our 25 and you can still sit on the seat...without a cushion. Pics in our album if you're curious, but it really is as simple as rough up w/ sand paper/3M pad, clean w/ de-greaser...slap some product on and roll it out.
It seems to hold up well to traffic, if applied correctly. My brother's boat is stored outdoors and this is his third season with it. For a water-based product it's surprisingly tough yet clean up is a breeze; soap & warm water.
You an also easily patch it if required, although the color may be slightly off due to fading (solar). I am totally happy w/ the product.