Replacing trailer tires

T

tparrent

New member
At everyone's suggestion, I am replacing my 10 year old but low mileage trailer tires before heading off on new misadventures.

The tires have ST 225/75 D 15 written on the side so I assume I can just replace them with the same, perhaps going up to load range E as some have suggested.

My question is, how is this done? If order them online or go to Northern Tool or someplace else likely to have them in stock, will a tire shop mount them for me (I'd bring in the old tires, not the whole trailer) or would they have expected me to order from them directly? Most tire shops would not carry these in stock, right?

Also, how should I choose between all the ST 225/75 E tires out there? Are differences in quality significant?

Finally, just so I know in the future, what do the numbers 225/75 mean? I know similar numbers are on all tires but I've never known the meaning.

Thanks!
 
The 225 is the width. Second number (75) is the ratio of the width to the side wall height (aspect ratio). Higher numbers give taller tires. Wide tires have lower aspect ratios. D means diagonal ply. 15 is the rim size.

In the information you provided the load range is not indicated.
 
Thanks - that's helpful.

The tire also has lettering saying Load Range D. Knowing that the "D" is for diagonal will help me not look stupid at least once! (I need a lot of help)
 
most tire shops can fix you up, drive in, drive out, easy peazy. If you're going on long trip, and it hasn't been done in a while, it would be good to get your wheel bearings inspected and repacked. most tire shops can do this also.
enjoy
 
I am assuming that on a trailer for a CD 16 you have 13" tires. Load range C is actually enough for those tires. I went up to load range D (accidentally) and had a problem of my own making. Here's what I did.

Your new tires will be a crap shoot, meaning that you really won't have any control over the quality of the tire. I know that other's will likely disagree. But from what I saw, there are several companies in China that make 13" ST tires. Those companies will brand them for US suppliers. They can be branded with an expensive name or they can be brand X. The major difference will be the price. If you feel better with a name that you recognize, or a name that you can at least pronounce, pay your money and take your chances.

What I did was find a good price on a wheel and tire package. I paid a little bit less after lots of shopping, but this one is hard to beat.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pack-Trailer- ... MM&vxp=mtr

How much can you screw around for $120? Shipping was less hassle than taking the trailer to a tire shop or, if I'm taking the wheels off to take to the shop, why not just put on my new wheels? I'd have to check on price, but I recall that the wheel/tire package was about $50 ea. They showed up in a couple of days. The bonus was that the manufacturing date was recent (more so than many reported they were buying in a brick and mortar tire store).

Now for the problem. I ordered the same as the originals (load rating C). I saw that they shipped load rate D (like the ones on Ebay). Great. What I didn't realize was that load rate D is supposed to be inflated at a higher pressure. I ran them at what I was running before (50 psi), and got a strange wear pattern because of it (after several 500 mile trips). Took me a while to figure that out. There's a picture of the wear pattern somewhere in my photo album.

My original set of +10 year old tires went on craig's list and I told the purchaser that they were old. He was mainly interested in galvanized wheels and only took his little aluminum boat a mile to a saltwater launch. He was happy. I got them out of the garage in less than a week (that never happens). And it offset my new wheel/tire purchase by $40. I could have just taken them to Goodwill.

I ended up also selling my new 13" wheel/tires and upgrading to 15", but that's another story that only applies to my special needs.

It seems extravagant, but buying new galvanized wheels and tires was quick and economical for me.

Mark
 
tparrent":1ltflcht said:
Should I order bias or radial tires?

What are the advantages/disadvantages of each?

Thanks
Click to expand...

In my experience, radial trailer tires run smoother, wear more evenly, and last much longer. Don't forget to have them balanced.
 
First of all, you mentioned that the tyres had ST 225/75 D 15 marked on them. If so, you can't replace them with 13" tyres unless you get new wheels.

Now, for the purpose of this post. I've been fighting Journey On's trailer tyres since new. Any long trip, we can plan on having tyres that looked good burst and making an emergency stop for new tyres. So I've decided to replace them with truck tyres of the same rolling radius. That'd be two to a side to keep the trailer even. I make that decision based on the truck, where I'm still running one of the original tyres after 10 years versus the trailer tyres which are kaput after 2 years.

This is for the record as you may not wish to get truck tyres for a C-Dory 16. However all radial trailer tyres appear to be made in the same Chinese factory with different brand lettering on them. Except for ____, I don't know who but some C-Brat will tell us.

The heavier load range didn't make any difference. In fact that may hurt since the didn't flex as much.

Boris
 
The only thing I can see to add is that if you are really going with the tire you noted in load Range D--that has a rating of 2540#, x 2 is 5080#--enough for most 22's This is a common RV tire for travel and 5th wheel trailers. A bit overkill for the 16. As Marco noted, you need to run these higher rated tires at the recommended pressures. Also check the speed rating. Many are rated at 60 mph-or some even lower.

Don't know if only one factory in China--but most trailer tires are made there. I also have gone with truck tires on some trailers. When I had to replace my trailer a few years ago the dealer didn't have the right size tire alone--but he had them on wheels for $75 each. (There were ST trailer tires). The basic difference is that the trailer tires are heavier side walls, to guard against scuff/flex breakdown. as the trailer turns with duals, one set will be pushed sideways, with a single axle this is a minimal issue.
 
My apologies for not changing my profile for six years!

My boat is a 22 cruiser. I sold the 16 shortly after I purchased the 22.

The trailer is a single axle.
 
Since I am inland boater trailer tires are important to me. Over the years I have found that the best place to get good advice and service is a tire dealer that services commercial vehicles. Generally they have a lot of experience with tires used on non driving or steering axles and can offer advice on trailer tires used in all applications. We have a dealer here in Boise who does that very well. They are equipped to jack the trailer up even if it is relatively low clearance unit as does the E-Loader that our 16 cruiser rests on. However they will not care if you bring just the wheels in. As others have said, I would not be concerned about moving up the load range scale as the combined weight of the boat (925), motor (225), trailer (500) is a total of about 1700 lbs. A load range c trailer tire has a carry capacity of about 1300 lbs at 50 psi. Since you have 2 of them, your capacity is 2600+ lbs which leaves about 900 lbs for fuel, gear, etc which should be plenty. Our boats have always been kept inside and always put on blocks through the winter. I am sure that has helped life. Two things I always do is have them balanced on installation and regularly monitor the tire pressure. I know that has been suggested other places too. What I can say is that after having dragged boats around the country since 1981, I have yet to have had to change a tire on the road.
 
tparrent":1mstur16 said:
My apologies for not changing my profile for six years!

My boat is a 22 cruiser. I sold the 16 shortly after I purchased the 22.

The trailer is a single axle.
Click to expand...

That was going to be my question. What boat are you hauling? Now we know, but I think Jack answered based on your profile and/or album pictures. (Which are both places I check before delving into that type (technical) question.)

I'm sure you will be able to sort out the responses based on and applied to your particular situation.

If you are trailering in the Pacific NorthWest, I have had very good service from Les Schwab for tires, (car, truck and trailer) for about 40 years. They will change the tires with the boat on the trailer, but I have a mechanic shop do the bearings.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

HH_Cal_09_01_Jan.thumb.jpg
 
My experience/recommendations for trailer tires:

SIZE: Per trailer Mfg specs or professional trailer dealer

MAKE: Get "Made in USA", not China if possible

WEAR: If you trailer a lot or if any tire shows uneven/excess wear,
replace all tires (2, 4 or 6*) not longer than every 4 years or so.

MAINTENANCE: Check pressure before any use. Consider application of UV
protectant if trailer is kept outside. If you use infrequently, replace all tires
from UV degradation every 5 years, maybe sooner if you live in the sunbelt.

Keep a mounted spare tire/wheel in good condition.

Aye.
Grandma used to say, "A pound of prevention is worth 10 pounds of cure."

* If your trailer has 6 tires, you can afford to do this.
 
Hardee is right my reply was based on a 16, but we had a 22 for 11 years, and I found the same suggestions applied. Know what your weights are and if your current tires are original then that is what the trailer manufacturer installed and the size and load range should be correct, so if you have Ds now Ds would be correct. Our 22 was on a single axle E-Loader supplied by Sport craft where we bought the boat, and we did not have any issues for the entire 11 years. If you are really concerned, you can check with the trailer manufacturer or look at their spec sheet to determine what they recommend.
I know there are pages and pages of discussion out there about single vs tandem axle trailers. My opinion is it should be personal preference and if the trailer is speced right by meeting the manufacturer's recommendations, either one will do the job. When you are tooling down the road at 65 to 70, Your comfort level needs to be at its best.
 
You raise an excellent point Jack. The fact is I have had ZERO problems with this trailer and the tires. Why would I switch to something different?

I've had no end of problems with other trailers, tires, vehicles, boats, etc.

That makes my decision much easier. I will search for the originals!
 
Searching for the original brand doesn't address all of the questions. Each tire has a code on it that shows where the tire was manufactured (after finding the right site on the internet). My original Goodyear Marathons were made in the USA. The only ones that I could find now are made in China and, despite the name, don't have a good reputation. I found one post where a particular size was still being made in the US, but like I said, the brand name can be Apple Pie and the tires are still made in China. After all of the information that I found on the web, I just said no to trailer tires.

My new tires are actually made in Russia (really) for a Finnish company and I'm happy with them. The same tire in something closer to your size are these, which are rated a little over 2,000# ea.
https://www.amazon.com/Nokian-eNTYRE-Al ... entyre+2.0
Speed rated to only 130 mph if that's an issue.
 
I'm running Carlisle ST 205/75R14 LRC standard trailer tires that I've purchased at Farm & Fleet or Walmart, on sale for $75-$80, free mounting. , I have twin axle and feel just fine with load range C. I don't see any need to balance a trailer tire. They've been running just fine for me, and I've been out west twice, down to Florida once, Canada once, and all over Wisconsin numerous times. Many preach truck tires or upgrading to LR D or E, or USA made (good luck finding USA made...). And I bet they are paying more for them also. Keep them at the proper pressure, don't drive over 65, cover them when sitting more than a few days, and I suspect you'll have to replace them for age, before they wear out or blow out! Colby
 
If you have a tandem trailer, make sure that the trailer tows level so that the load distribution between the tires on the front and rear axles is even. If the towing attitude is too nose up or nose down, this will cause one set of tires to be carrying more then their fair share of the weight. This involves making sure the height of the trailer ball is correct for your trailer.

With a single axle trailer the ball height doesn't really matter (within reason).
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. After learning more about tires than I knew possible, I've decided to go with round ones, preferably filled with air, with side protection provided by AAA and BoatUS TrailerAssist :D

I also read a years old, mile long thread on the topic on The Hull Truth where I feared fisticuffs were about to break out :amgry

At least now I will know where I went wrong when it all goes wrong. :wink

The delay that comes from ordering the tires is good for my boat because I won't be tempted to take it out and use that five year old gas in the tanks. I will wait and have the tires installed and head right for Mobile East Marine and have them service a number of things including that nasty gas (or whatever it has broken down to at this point)

Thanks again!
 
Greetings trailer people. Does anyone have experience or feedback with Kenda brand trailer tires? They are one of the main ones I see that offer D load rating in 205/75 R 14 tires, which is what my trailer uses. My current tires are sound, but C-rated, and I like the idea of additional plies/robustness/load rating for my next set. I am aware that total load capacity is limited by the trailer's rating. Thanks, Mike
 
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