princess effie
New member
The boat has 3 rails under the hull for beaching it. What type of wood, could I use red oak? I notice the new option is a bow protector made from brass. Where could I get one. thx
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Replacing wood rails under hull
- Thread starter princess effie
- Start date
starcrafttom
Active member
You could call the factory and get one that may fit or you can look at the West Marine web site and get a bow protector that is Pvc. Many folks have them. If you search the site here you should find a post about someone replacing the three rails you are talking about. I just cant remember the name of the boat or the owner that did it. He posted a lot fo pic's and who he did it.
Generally white oak is prefered for boat building. The reason is that red oak is more porous, less rot resistant, has less strength and will be heavier for the same dimension. I personally perfer teak, with SS 1/2 rounds on the bottom for rub strakes. Teak is naturally resistant to marine borers, if you keep the boat in the water. It is also a oily wood and resists dry rot well.
If you want to use Red Oak, it may be fine--as long as the boat is kept on the trailer, and the oak is well ventilated. You might also consider encapsulating the oak.
Another possibility is to use one of the synthetics--such as a PVC or Polyethylene dimensional lumber. King Starboard (costly) is another in this group. (cheaper high density polyethylenes are available)
The problem is attachment to the bottom of the boat, since it is cored. I always favor filling with epoxy when screwing into a cored area--one can tap the epoxy and use machine screws. Conventional sealants do not work as well with the synthetics such as King Starboard. By cross hatching of fine dovetailing the side next to the hull, you will have a better "grip" of sealants such as 4200.
If you want to use Red Oak, it may be fine--as long as the boat is kept on the trailer, and the oak is well ventilated. You might also consider encapsulating the oak.
Another possibility is to use one of the synthetics--such as a PVC or Polyethylene dimensional lumber. King Starboard (costly) is another in this group. (cheaper high density polyethylenes are available)
The problem is attachment to the bottom of the boat, since it is cored. I always favor filling with epoxy when screwing into a cored area--one can tap the epoxy and use machine screws. Conventional sealants do not work as well with the synthetics such as King Starboard. By cross hatching of fine dovetailing the side next to the hull, you will have a better "grip" of sealants such as 4200.
Your '83 Classic has an absolutely flat bottom, shapped like a pressing iron for clothes.
The rails are nice, but wear out over time.
Want a long term solution?
Turn it over, pull the rails, seal the screw holes, and re-glass over the hull. Then get a big sheet of aluminum, say 1/8 of an inch thick, and cover the entire bottom of the hull with it, sinking the screws into the hull with plenty of 3M 5200 and using screws with a type of head that won't be rendered irreplaceable by a little rock abrasion.
Make the plate a little larger than the hull's outline, then slit it every 3-5 inches at the overhang with a saw, and bend it up over the chines of the hull, using a rubber mallet.
I haven't figured out the cost of this, but it should give you a bulletproof bottom, so to speak.
I think you'd have to make the holes in the aluminum a little larger than the screws to allow the aluminum to expand and contract somewhat differently than the plywood and glass hull bottom.
Now you have a riverboat too, at least somewhat.
Got any good cheap scrap metal dealers in your area? (Access to good, cheap, metal and industrial surplus stores is one of the things I miss after having moved away from the Bay Area to Redding.)
Joe. :teeth :thup
The rails are nice, but wear out over time.
Want a long term solution?
Turn it over, pull the rails, seal the screw holes, and re-glass over the hull. Then get a big sheet of aluminum, say 1/8 of an inch thick, and cover the entire bottom of the hull with it, sinking the screws into the hull with plenty of 3M 5200 and using screws with a type of head that won't be rendered irreplaceable by a little rock abrasion.
Make the plate a little larger than the hull's outline, then slit it every 3-5 inches at the overhang with a saw, and bend it up over the chines of the hull, using a rubber mallet.
I haven't figured out the cost of this, but it should give you a bulletproof bottom, so to speak.
I think you'd have to make the holes in the aluminum a little larger than the screws to allow the aluminum to expand and contract somewhat differently than the plywood and glass hull bottom.
Now you have a riverboat too, at least somewhat.
Got any good cheap scrap metal dealers in your area? (Access to good, cheap, metal and industrial surplus stores is one of the things I miss after having moved away from the Bay Area to Redding.)
Joe. :teeth :thup