Reversible seating - CD22

S

Sealife

New member
Somewhere I heard that the factory had made some improvements to the reversible dinette seat, making it more stable. Anyone have info on just what they did, and if my 2005 version can be upgraded?

It seems, even with three table clips, the table still is not solid. Maybe what's needed is a pin or a screw that could be inserted through the clip, into the tongue to keep it fully engaged.
 
Well, I'm sure you could make the mods that the factory did. First one is a knob with a screw in it, it actually goes through the foot of the table securing it. I think they use different fittings on the hull now too where the table attaches, seems like it was like a deadbolt or something, but I can't remember. I should get my new CD this week so I will post pics asap. That will probably be your best bet, unless someone else already has them. They also made a molded fiberglass seat back for the seat so you don't have to use the table as a back rest.

Sark
 
Mike
You can see the pins I used on Widget's table mounts in my photo album. The leg could be stabilized with the same pin and a small stanless angle mounted to the "floor" next to the leg.
 
Thanks, Pete, for the pics. Looks like the factory affixed a length of wood to the port side of the interior hull, enabling the attachment of a different table support, and to serve as the female for the locking pin when the table is fully extended. I noted, also the way they have stabilized the support leg, by adding a locking pin screw. I've not really had any trouble with the leg; just with the table tilting because it's not locked into it's support brackets. The pins that Moxieabs recommends looks like it would do the trick. So, I'm off to the hardware store to find 'em.

Thanks, all, for the help.
 
Well..........not so simple. Visited three hardware stores to find the 1/2x3/8 pin with no luck. Nothing that small. Is that the size of the existing hole in the clips, and where did you find yours?
 
Mike,
The pins came from West Marine, I had to tease the holes with the drill. They never rattle with vibration nor come out on their own. My 85 year-old father-in-law frequently leans on the corner of the table and thus my concern about the brackets being a solid enough catch with the dimple lock. The pins are easy enough to pull when dropping the table. I would suppose any sailboat supply house would have these pins.
 
Well, the pins didn't work (kept falling out), so I contacted Scott Mathews at the factory, and he sent me a set of the new table hardware; new hinges, lever action fastener, and sliding bolt. It seems to require afixing a strip of wood to the hull to accept the screws and sliding bolt. Can anyone take some detailed photos that show how it all fits? Scott did not send me any instructions.
 
Thanks, Rabidfish. My setup is slightly different; I have the reversible seat. Also, I'm doing a retrofit, so I'm concerned about mounting the piece of wood on the side of the hull. In your photos, it appears the table butts up to the wood, meaning it would move my existing table a bit farther into the isle. That would mean I'd probably have to relocate the table leg so it would still fit into the depression on the floor, where it now sits. Can you tell me the dimensions of the length of wood, and if it has been shaped in any way to fit against the hull? Appreciate the help.
 
I just finished a retrofit of the table, thereby updating to the new factory setup. This included removing the 3 clips for the table mounting. Putting
a 4" wide teak piece against the hull and mounting the table to that by means of the 2 blind hinges, a Sugatsune spring loaded locking bolt and
a secure device. Also the factory bracket/locking knob device for the bottom of the leg/floor. Came out great and what an improvement. This baby is solid and it's a pretty easy conversion to execute.

I also raised both seat boxes 1 9/16" by adding a teak trim strip around
the top perimeter of the boxes, which effectively gives the seats a better height relationship to the table. Even put a drawer with extension slides in the forward sliding seat box.

Made some other changes/additions as well and if can get Da Nerd to figure out why I can't get into my photo album and fix that minor little detail I'll add some pics. I'm big on visuals!
 
Mike, I thought I would probably have to make an adjustment and move the table leg a bit as well. Not so. At least on my unit the table leg worked fine just the way it was.

Since I can't get into my "photo album" at the present time, if you want
I would be glad to e-mail some pics of the install.
 
Mark,

Installed the new hardware hinges, but elected to fasten directly to the bulkhead without the teak board. The teak board would have moved the table outward toward the isle a bit, requiring repositioning of the table leg, and I found the fit of the table against the bulkhead was better than against the board because the bulkhead has a slight curve. The table had been trimmed to fit this curve. The upshot is it works....solid. One question though. I haven't been able to figure out the purpose or the positioning of the black lever gadget? I've studied your picture and still can't figure it out. Help?
 
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