Right switch panel lost power

B

BBlalock

New member
I was winterizing and all necessary switches are on the right panel of my CD 25. Water pump, bilge, emacieator and horn are all on it. Everything went well but then nothing worked. I assume power or ground was lost to it and the left panel is fine.
Any suggestions where I should start?
 
Get you digital volt meter/multi test meter out and start checking for voltage. If you don't have a volt meter, there are some decent ones at hardware stores or Amazon. Also watch videos on use of volt meter. Recent thread I instructe: turn meter on to 12V DC, black probe to ground (which will be black or yellow wire. Red probe to red wire (+). It is probably a loose wire, or possible corrosion. Get to the back of the switch panel and start tracing the power input wires. Probably in the positive circuit.

12 volt Doctors's Hand book is also very handy if you have no experience with DC electrical.
 
Just the right side of the panel only? Everything works on the left side? I'd suggest looking at the back of the panel and see if you can find the positive wire going from the other side. On the back of the panel should be two bars that the fuses/switches are mated to. There should be a wire going between those two bars to carry the power from one side to the other. My bet is a screw came lose, or that wire has a fuse in it that blew. Colby
 
I don't know about you guys but I do impress myself with how dumb I can be at times.
Once I laid down in the vbirth with a headlight I realized the two 25a fuses labeled Accessory are for the switch panels. The starboard fuse was fried. I replaced it and everything worked until I flipped the macerator switch. No sound but the fuse blew immediately.
I replaced the macerator a year ago and it did work fine a month ago but it appears that is where my issue is. Now I get to do the easiest/cheapest things to find what has gone wrong. :roll:
 
The macerator pump is frozen. It is possible to get it turning again externally if there is a slot in the end of the shaft. Put a screwdriver in and turn the shaft if possible. If you cannot, then you will have to take the pump end off the macerator. There will be screws to remove the face plate of the pump, There is a rubber vane pump. See what the condition is and attempt to rotate it. Most of the time you can salvage the pump, especially if it is only a few months old.

You may have to replace the pump impeller. They freeze up regularly--both from water residual or material residual. The only way around this is to both run the pump frequently--just run some water thru it. Also a small amount of mineral oil or "head lube" with some water after a pump out will help to prevent this.

The locked rotor of the pump is what is blowing the pump--the motor is probably fine--just fix the impeller.

I don't know how your boat is wired (there are differences in various models even in the same year). But I would put a 25 or 30 amp circuit breaker (Blue Seas) instead of the fuse in the circuit....Also do a regular maintenance schedule on the Macerator--It may seem un-necessary, but it is the nature of the beasts!

....or get an Air Head composting toilet.
 
I had someone pm me about a week ago on the cost to ship him my hot water heater, macerator and air pump. I haven’t heard back from him but if he decides not to take it you could have the macerator for the cost of shipping. It worked when I pulled it out of the boat this past summer. Colby
 
Bob,
Once again your comments are very helpful.
I am recovering from left shoulder rotator cup surgery. Rolling around in our boats can be a real chore but add in no weight on that arm really makes it more fun.
I was able to find that slot in the shaft yesterday and it was tight. I assume it should turn with just a little tension. I'll pull the macerator and then take the pump off to see what is going on there.
Colby I appreciate the offer but I am going to see if I can get this 'new' macerator going.
 
Ouch on the shoulder surgery--not part of normal PT or rehab! If you can turn it a little, then you should be able to free it up when you pull the end. I always put a dab of silicone grease on the vanes and around the housing when I put it back to gather...I even have a "Water Puppy pump" which the vanes tend to freeze up--and I just pull the plate before I go to use it--put some silicone geese and give it a slight turn--good to go.
 
Bob and others,
Put the screw driver on the shaft and turned back and forth. It turned with a little tension clockwise. Flipped the switch and it ran.
Bob, thanks for your help. That should have been my easiest and cheapest option. Now, I know!! :lol:
 
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