Right Time to Replace Anodes

nordicstallion":ylvolkil said:
Thank you Peter, you are truly a wonderful human being!! I did indeed find my motor on the Browns Marine site you brought to my attention. Not only do I see two internal anodes,skillfully hidden & unmentioned in the motor manual,but also found that my motor is a 2004 by the serial numbers. I was supplied with a 2003 motor df70 manual when I bought the boat. Probably not much, if any, difference but good for my piece of mind & I can certainly use all the pieces of my mind I can get!!
You're very welcome Vern. Glad I could help. Plus as a bonus, you're motor is newer than you thought! :thup

Peter
 
Vern,
My Suzuki DF50s are 2005. I have the Maintenance manual for them and there is absolutely no mention of internal anodes. The mechanic who has done routine periodic maintenance on my motors was clueless about anodes, and when my new mechanic checked them he found them completely disintegrated. 1000 hours. Sounds like negligence on Suzuki's part, not to mention the original mechanic who should know better.
 
One must remember when putting in new Zincs Where you do your primary boating
1-Zinc alloy Anodes for salt water Only

2-Aluminum Alloy Anodes for salt or brackish water

3-Magnesium Alloy Anodes for Fresh water only
 
jennykatz":2jegnkdt said:
One must remember when putting in new Zincs Where you do your primary boating
1-Zinc alloy Anodes for salt water Only

2-Aluminum Alloy Anodes for salt or brackish water

3-Magnesium Alloy Anodes for Fresh water only

Thanks for that reminder. :?: :?: What happens if.....

Most, like probably, by the hours, 97% of my time is in salt water only. But there is the rare time, that I go down to the Columbia River for a weekend. That is fresh water. So I am not changing "Zincs" for that trip.

I have heard conflicting info regarding what happens to the "Zincs" (which are the Zinc Alloy type) after that fresh water bath. One view is that it does not make any difference for that little exposure to the fresh water. Another view was that after that, the activity of the zinc is decreased and there could be galvanic corrosion to some engine parts.

l'm curious what the brain trust here thinks is the actual truth and best practice.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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I just got the 3 internal anodes for my 2003 F80 Yamaha today. How hard of a job is it to replace them? I'm somewhat handy ( :) ) but I don't wanna get in over my head and cause a new problem! Especially since the motor is running perfectly fine now.

( I already replaced the skeg anode and strip anode)
 
jennykatz":3i7pfos7 said:
One must remember when putting in new Zincs Where you do your primary boating
1-Zinc alloy Anodes for salt water Only

2-Aluminum Alloy Anodes for salt or brackish water

3-Magnesium Alloy Anodes for Fresh water only
Did miss something here? I thought "zinc" composition was dictated by the type of metal it is stuck onto. To wit, magnesium heavy alloys are used on aluminum, whereas zinc heavy alloys are used on ferrous metals, and brass/bronze alloys.

NB: I will vouch for the zinc heavy alloy zincs inside my IB cooling system, attached to a brass/bronze heat exchanger: over time, they accumulate some sort of crust, if the engine is run in feesh water for an extended time. But, on the salt, they erode like crazy and always have a fresh surface.
 
jennykatz":2d3r1a0b said:
One must remember when putting in new Zincs Where you do your primary boating
1-Zinc alloy Anodes for salt water Only

2-Aluminum Alloy Anodes for salt or brackish water

3-Magnesium Alloy Anodes for Fresh water only

Correctamundo. Looking through the Suzuki manual it says nothing about that. But from reading the parts list it has two choices on some of them. It gives you a choice between fresh vs. salt water use.
 
Whilst pondering this internal anode omission from the Suzuki manual, I checked the manual for my Yamaha auxiliary 9.9. It mentions internal anodes being present but suggests seeking professional assistance for their replacement. They were admittedly a little spooky removing them from the Suzuki & maybe not for the faint of heart worrier that I am but social security didn't factor in the cost of outboard mechanics. Maybe Suzuki just didn't want us attempting them but they should at least have warned us of their presents. I would have been sorely disappointed when that last little piece of water jacket anode corroded off & found it's way to my water pump while out on the high sea. But I guess that's just the worrier in me!!!
 
I went and checked our manual. 2006 Suzuki DF150. It says to replace them when they are 2/3 gone. Also says to inspect yearly and use wire brush to clean to keep them working.
 
After pulling up the schematic of the df70 on I boats found an anode on the exhaust side and on the intake side of the motor.I ordered replacement anodes, my motor has just under 900 hrs and has been rinsed with saltaway after every use.I was disapointed that this was not covered in the Susuki manual that I have.
 
Fishingmark I wondered about that cover on the exhaust manifold but neglected to pull up the Browns point diagram. Thanks to a fellow c-brat I'm on track again!! :thup
 
Thanks all for this discussion. I have twin F80 Yamahas (2003), approx 800 hrs on them, not stored in water, religiously flushed after every trip. I looked in the Service Manual, it doesn't specifically mention to check or maintain them, but does show where all 5 anodes are located: 3 internal, skeg/trim tab, and bottom of motor mount.

I wire-brushed the 2 external ones to like new. I wish I knew whether they are zinc or mag or some other metal, I'll have to find out. I found and removed the internal ones all under the cowling, 2 under a rear, plastic cover and 1 on the lower right side of the engine (as viewed facing from rear of motor). All three are identical, easily removed with 2 bolts each. Mine had nearly all of the original material left, so I scrapped them with a knife and brushed to a bright, shiny surface. O-rings for sealing were in good shape.

See pictures in my album under maintenance.
 
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