Have my rope/chain spliced but do not known what type of thread i need to sew the rope strands together. I did a version of Sea Wolf's two strands down the chain and one strand back up the rope. **** Dumb Question....Could you use ...Spider fishing line....it is strong and water-proof or marine canvas thread.......Tug
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Rope/Chain Splice
- Thread starter Tug
- Start date
I use a different splice (tight eye splice) with one vs two strands thru the link of chain. To serve any splice I use waxed dacron thread. Sorry I don't have the exact number here, but it is a bit heavier than V 138. I have several bobbins I have accumulated thru the years, but the weight is about the same as used for the "Speedy Stitcher awl". Another good option is to serve a splice with self amalgamating tape. (Rigging tape). You can also find the self amalgamating tape in places like the electrical dept of Lowes.
When I use thread, I also sew thru the throat of the splice or the standing part of the line, when serving down by the tails of the splice. This gives a more secure finish to the serving.
When I use thread, I also sew thru the throat of the splice or the standing part of the line, when serving down by the tails of the splice. This gives a more secure finish to the serving.
This site has various weights of thread for sailmaking.
http://search.sailrite.com/category/sail-repair-canvas-dacron-ripstop-repair-tapes-tear-aid
http://search.sailrite.com/category/sail-repair-canvas-dacron-ripstop-repair-tapes-tear-aid
Took my boat out today to try the Windlass. Had a hard time (retrieving).passing the rode/chain splice thru the Windlass..had to retry it 3-4 times. Should i re-splice or is the clutch too tight. Also my self launching BRM-4 anchor roller doesn't live up to its name,had to coach it off the roller. I assume these are easy fixes but would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks Tug
I also tried the 2 strands up the chain and 1 spliced back onto the rope, had very poor results getting it to bite through the windlass. It looked great too. So after 2 years of battling with it (coming up, not down), I cut it off and went back to a conventional 3 strand splice back on the rope. It looks good also, and has worked perfectly on the two times I've used it so far.
So maybe your gypsy or windlass design has the same problem mine did with that particular splice.
As far as self-launching, I have a Delta anchor and I needed to add a roller at the end of the stem to keep it horizontal when in the stowed position. This allows it to self-launch. Maybe that's your problem also, don't know.
So maybe your gypsy or windlass design has the same problem mine did with that particular splice.
As far as self-launching, I have a Delta anchor and I needed to add a roller at the end of the stem to keep it horizontal when in the stowed position. This allows it to self-launch. Maybe that's your problem also, don't know.
I have been using the tight eye splice method since 1980--with thousands of nights at anchor, up to 90 knots of wind and boats in excess of 65,000 lbs.. Never had a problem with splice failure or the windlass. You do need to taper the end of the splice (put 2 to 3 full strands, and then cut half of the strands after each additional tuck. Be sure and seal the cuts with a hot knife or at least a cig. lighter.
Tug- The extra roller at the back of your anchor roller to tip the back up and move the center of gravity down a bit to initiate self-launch is a great solution that will probably work.
If the two forward/1 backward splice won't work, maybe the three backward/tapered will.
The problem is that every combination of anchor, anchor roller, and windlass is a unique combination of weight, center of gravity, roller geometry, and windlass gypsy and Fleming (pressure finger).
What works for one, may or may not work for another, and that can be frustrating (!) Some experimentation is always in order, as it a little hope for good luck!
We're rooting for ya'!
Joe. :teeth :thup
If the two forward/1 backward splice won't work, maybe the three backward/tapered will.
The problem is that every combination of anchor, anchor roller, and windlass is a unique combination of weight, center of gravity, roller geometry, and windlass gypsy and Fleming (pressure finger).
What works for one, may or may not work for another, and that can be frustrating (!) Some experimentation is always in order, as it a little hope for good luck!
We're rooting for ya'!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Today i cut the old splice off and tried the tight eye splice, i will let you know how it works on the water..but i tried retrieving the rode using the Windlass crank and there was still resistance.i will tackle the roller/anchor problem... tomorrow. Too hot and humid today..30 C plus.... to do much of anything. Tug
Today i cut the old splice off and tried the tight eye splice, i will let you know how it works on the water..but i tried retrieving the rode using the Windlass crank and there was still resistance.i will tackle the roller/anchor problem... tomorrow. Too hot and humid today..30 C plus.... to do much of anything. Tug
Doing the taper on the tiight eye splice I find is important. If you have any questions about it, please ask.
There are two different ways of tapering. One is to take three strands to 3 tucks, then 2 strands to the 4th tuck and last strand to the 5th tuck.
I prefer, to take 2 or 3 tucks, then cut off half of each strand. Take another tuck and then cut off half of those, do that once more--and that is the end--seal each cut with the hot knife.
Also rolling the splice is very important. First roll it between you two hands. Then put it on the floor and roll hard with your foot to firm the splcie up, and assure a good taper, so it will work thru the chain/rope gypsy.
There are two different ways of tapering. One is to take three strands to 3 tucks, then 2 strands to the 4th tuck and last strand to the 5th tuck.
I prefer, to take 2 or 3 tucks, then cut off half of each strand. Take another tuck and then cut off half of those, do that once more--and that is the end--seal each cut with the hot knife.
Also rolling the splice is very important. First roll it between you two hands. Then put it on the floor and roll hard with your foot to firm the splcie up, and assure a good taper, so it will work thru the chain/rope gypsy.
Time to replace the rode.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfDyDYC5g1E
Will be splicing new rode to my existing chain.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfDyDYC5g1E
Will be splicing new rode to my existing chain.
This is similar to the technique which I use--the tight eye splice/back splice. I keep my strands much tighter than he does (do not let them unravel. I mark the strands so that I don't have a possibility of passing back under itself the first time. He goes two one way and one the other--this is proper. I agree with the whipping. After 3 full tucks, I taper each strand by either 30% or 50% depending on how long I want the taper. Then each taper is cut by half--for 3 tucks. At the end I burn the remaining. I don't work with as long strands as he does (he has a bit more waste). I roll the splice under my foot--you can get much better compaction than under the palm. I sieze the splice similarly to what he does.
I might switch back to 50ft-100ft of chain and 100ft of rope that way most of the time I would just use chain most anchoring is in less then 15 ft of water
How does one clean the chain putting it in a bucket of pb blaster or similar or buy new ? I have about 150 ft of older chain that was made for the windlass i have.what methods to clean it pressure clean ? solvent , ???
also the extra weight up front would be good
How does one clean the chain putting it in a bucket of pb blaster or similar or buy new ? I have about 150 ft of older chain that was made for the windlass i have.what methods to clean it pressure clean ? solvent , ???
also the extra weight up front would be good
jennykatz":1duv6c75 said:I might switch back to 50ft-100ft of chain and 100ft of rope that way most of the time I would just use chain most anchoring is in less then 15 ft of water
How does one clean the chain putting it in a bucket of pb blaster or similar or buy new ? I have about 150 ft of older chain that was made for the windlass i have.what methods to clean it pressure clean ? solvent , ???
also the extra weight up front would be good
Jim-
What needs to be cleaned about the chain? Dirt? Rust? Discoloration?
How you clean it may depend a lot of what's on it.
A good pressure washer usually blasts most stuff off, unless you have special needs requiring special cleaners.
If it's G4 High Test, or BBB, or even Proof Coil, all of which are designated for marine use, it should be galvanized with zinc (hot dipped)., and shouldn't rust.
You'll like the weight forward of having a lot of chain. It really helps with the ride in chop.
Chain never slips in the gypsy of the windlass like rope can and lays down nicely at anchor.
If you expect a real blow, let out enough rode to get some nylon rope out too in order to get some elasticity and shock absorbing capacity.
Joe. :teeth :thup
Simplicity
New member
OK I admit it. took the chain and anchor line to professional to be spliced.The $10 was worth the anxiety reduction. Marlinspike seaman I am not.
On the long distance boats we used 160 to 200 feet of chain backed with 400 feet of line. (allows anchoring in 100 feet of water). I think I have about 60 feet on the Tom Cat--this allows all chain in most of our local waters--and certainly all chain as it comes up.
If it is rusted badly--toss. If only minimal rust--you have two choices--one is to clean with a wire brush and spray cold galvenizing onto it. The other is to take it to a galvanizing place. Usually they will not do any less than 300 lbs--so you have to get several other boats. We usually would do anchors and several chains. Most galvanizing places do not have chain shakers, but will do it manually. This leaves some lumps of galvanizing and occasionally stuck links. It is still considerably more coating than the new chain. It is said that too many re-galvanizings will decrease the tempor and strength of G 4 or G 7 chain. We have never worried--but never had more than two re-galvanizings. You should switch the end of the chain every year or so. This equates wear.
If it is rusted badly--toss. If only minimal rust--you have two choices--one is to clean with a wire brush and spray cold galvenizing onto it. The other is to take it to a galvanizing place. Usually they will not do any less than 300 lbs--so you have to get several other boats. We usually would do anchors and several chains. Most galvanizing places do not have chain shakers, but will do it manually. This leaves some lumps of galvanizing and occasionally stuck links. It is still considerably more coating than the new chain. It is said that too many re-galvanizings will decrease the tempor and strength of G 4 or G 7 chain. We have never worried--but never had more than two re-galvanizings. You should switch the end of the chain every year or so. This equates wear.
I installed a windlass on My Hooker ,and had to change the bow roller to a Lemar model 66840007 works great, 9 pound Delta and 15feet chain, we have stayed on the boat 5 nights with the new set up works great,2 days it blew 20 to 25 no problem with the holding.I used the splice that I saw on you-tube,2 loops one way 1 the other,works great.