I have a 2007 25 Cruiser and I am planning on changing the rub rail as the aluminum rail is beat up on both sides. Talking with Taco Marine they have suggested one of their newer products called Suproflex kit number V11-9960. They said it comes in a coil and is a vast improvement on the old aluminum sticks and goes on a lot easier. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
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Rub Rail Replacement - Suproflex
- Thread starter Pearl
- Start date
Pearl":2ban31wi said:I have a 2007 25 Cruiser and I am planning on changing the rub rail as the aluminum rail is beat up on both sides. Talking with Taco Marine they have suggested one of their newer products called Suproflex kit number V11-9960. They said it comes in a coil and is a vast improvement on the old aluminum sticks and goes on a lot easier. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
The way I read it is that this product is just vinyl. Maybe two hardnesses, but all plastic. This is different from the usual setup with a metal track holding a vinyl or plastic insert. This might make it easier to install but maybe less durable. FWIW, my rub rail on one side could use a replacement but it is a big job and I haven't been motivated enough to do it yet.
journey on
New member
On Journey On, the rub rail is aluminum with a plastic insert. That said, the aluminum is pop riveted on to the boat at the deck/hull joint when it left the factory. So, it not only attaches the aluminum part of the rub rail but also secures the bottom and top of the boat in some part.
Originally, the factory used pop rivets which have corroded away, and I've replaced them with 1/4" bolts and lock nuts. I used sheet metal screws where I couldn't get to the rear of the joint. It was a bear of a job.
I don't know how the new rub rail attaches, but does it bolt on? Are you up to removing the pop rivets or does your boat have bolts? It can't be a direct replacement?
Boris
Originally, the factory used pop rivets which have corroded away, and I've replaced them with 1/4" bolts and lock nuts. I used sheet metal screws where I couldn't get to the rear of the joint. It was a bear of a job.
I don't know how the new rub rail attaches, but does it bolt on? Are you up to removing the pop rivets or does your boat have bolts? It can't be a direct replacement?
Boris
journey on":1tjbofpa said:On Journey On, the rub rail is aluminum with a plastic insert. That said, the aluminum is pop riveted on to the boat at the deck/hull joint when it left the factory. So, it not only attaches the aluminum part of the rub rail but also secures the bottom and top of the boat in some part.
Originally, the factory used pop rivets which have corroded away, and I've replaced them with 1/4" bolts and lock nuts. I used sheet metal screws where I couldn't get to the rear of the joint. It was a bear of a job.
I don't know how the new rub rail attaches, but does it bolt on? Are you up to removing the pop rivets or does your boat have bolts? It can't be a direct replacement?
Boris
On my 25 the Joint is glassed together, the pop rivets only attach the Rub Rail :thup
Excellent point Boris on the securing the bottom and top of the boat in some part. The aluminum rail is riveted and a few of them have broken causing the rail to loosen. I was hoping Taco Marine would have the aluminum rail in 14' but they only supply 12'. Guess I will being installing three sections of rail instead of two. Researching C-Brats I plan on going with Aluminum Rail A12-0303BYL12 and Insert V12-0303BKA70-1
journey on
New member
tsturm,
My point was that those rivets go through the joint where the deck and hull join, not through some fiberglass sheet.. Certainly, our boats have a bond with glass and the pop rivets. If you remove the rivets you not only have holes but a weaker joint. That's why I used bolts and sheet metal screws instead of new pop rivets. Also I used a plastic washer under the bolt head to separate stainless and aluminum. You may differ, your choice.
Those aluminum rails have absorbed a lot of abuse and have a few flat spots that I haven't hammered out. And, BTW, my aluminum rail had started to corrode internally so I drilled small weep holes at the aft bottom of the rails.
Boris
My point was that those rivets go through the joint where the deck and hull join, not through some fiberglass sheet.. Certainly, our boats have a bond with glass and the pop rivets. If you remove the rivets you not only have holes but a weaker joint. That's why I used bolts and sheet metal screws instead of new pop rivets. Also I used a plastic washer under the bolt head to separate stainless and aluminum. You may differ, your choice.
Those aluminum rails have absorbed a lot of abuse and have a few flat spots that I haven't hammered out. And, BTW, my aluminum rail had started to corrode internally so I drilled small weep holes at the aft bottom of the rails.
Boris