Running cable in interior

H

halibut taco

New member
I'm going to run a vga cable from the helm to the aft port cabinet on my 25. I bought nylon cable clamps and #8 - 1/4 stainless steel screws. My question is about the thickness of the fiberglass under the forward windows and under the port walk-step. How thick is the fiberglass in these areas? Would I be better off fastening the cable in a different manner?
 
I have run cable in our 22 with little problem. Usually I use the nylon cable supports/holders that, on profile, are shaped sort of like a P. The two thicknesses of that nylon give you some safety margin. Our cabin walls are a little more than 1/4. I always predrill before screwing anything into fiberglass, you don't really need strength, just support. I have also used the small ratcheting holders with self stick mounting tape successfully, there I just clean the surface with alcohol and give the tape a day to cure.
 
I have a 22, so not completely familiar with the 25, and also not sure what the aesthetic considerations are, but with that said:

1) I tend not run screws into "just" fiberglass, because it's not generally all that thick, and also shortish screws into fiberglass don't grip all that well. (Although, as Barry notes above, great strength is not needed, so a variety of ways can work.) If it's cored there, then while you would probably be fine running into core from the inside... I still tend to do something else.

2) I'd likely use the Weld Mount wire tie bases (with the slight caveat that if they are going to be in plain sight they are a bit utilitarian looking). These are small (or large), white (or black) plastic "bridges" that glue onto the boat (with strong methacrylate glue intended for the purpose) and then accept a wire tie. I've used these on my 22 to hold wiring and tubing for the trim tabs, cables in the battery compartment, etc.

You can find them at www.weldmountsystem.com. Here is a photo (and oh, great, this caused me to see that they now have a new, even stronger, aluminum tie mount :wink:)

at3_thumb.jpg


I also like to use the low profile clasp cable ties (most times). I use Cobra brand - was introduced to them as mouthpiece ties on SCUBA gear. They don't have the square "hump" at the clasp and it's even easier to cut them smooth at the clasp (although not impossible with regular ones). There are a few times I prefer the standard type though.
 
I agree with both Sunbeam and Chuck. Either use the weldmount fasteners (no screws) or use the window screws (depending on where you plan to route the cable.
 
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'll probably be able to use the window screws across the front. Along the port side I want to tuck it underneath and out of view. Those weld-mounts seem like a good idea, looks easier than trying to maneuver a drill under there. I see Marinco has a similar cable tie product too.
 
For the last cable run I made, which also ran across the window bulkhead and down the port side, I used velcro tape. One can buy narrow strips, one half glue backed. Cut off an appropriate length (1" or so,) put the glued strip down on the fiberglass, place the cable over and then place the other half of the velcro strip over the cable. Works great, no holes to drill and if you change your mind, just move the tape. Has proved a secure mount over a couple of years.

Boris
 
I assume we all have a problem with too much radar cable/... I that is if we even have radar...or do you cut it ? the instructions say not to...but how to you hide 10' of excess radar cable ? I really hate to just run it around and tie it off...

I just replaced my radar and it has connectors on both ends of the cable.


Joel
SEA3PO
 
We put our radar cable on the shelf above the forward helm area. I have always kept it the factory length.

I have used very small and short screws in the cabin side walls in the 22, 25 and TC 255. you have to be very careful, but it can be done if necessary. The stick on are the best solution. Also glue on wooden blocks and screw into them.
 
Back
Top