Saddle Gas Tanks

Tug, thanks for copying the drawing and posting it--it does clarify the rules. I was too pressed for time to find a way to copy it, without putting it in my album and then linking.

The only difference between the one well pictured by "tug" and those boats built after Jan. 1 2012, is the addition of a carbon filter on the vent line--which I suspect will cause all sorts of problems down the line.....

Fill hoses can be bent--but cannot have an "S" where fuel can hang up--and one has to be cautious about being able to fill the fuel tank at a reasonable rate.

As for ventilation under the tank--it is not a rule, but is related to corrosion. The best way is to 5200 strips of plastic to the bottom of the tank and then the strips to the bottom of the boat. Any straps or supports cannot have any carbon containing material (such as many "rubbers") which touch the tank surface, because of potential galvanic action on the tank at that point. Any water in the cockpit floor needs to be able to flow to a bilge pump and not stand under the tank--especially immerse the bottom of the tank.
 
I couldn't copy and paste the information from the site either,only the pictures.

newboatbuilders.org

The pictures and regulations apply to permanently mounted fuel tanks but my new tank is considered a Portable Fuel Tank because it is not secured to the hull and can be easily removed, unless the addittion of the electric sender and ground wires is considered than to be attached to the hull. Portable Fuel Tanks that are open to atmospheric venting are considered to have adequate venting and comply with the new guidelines. My new tank does and is open to atmospheric venting and has an ignition protected sending unit. The bilge pumps don't click on until they are under water so they are not a source of ignition for gasoline vapours and the rest of the boat's electrical system is off when i am away. This doesn't mean i will not try to make my new tanks safer.I will put those plastic strips under the gas tank for ventilation and to help in water flow to the bilge pumps.
I do have a question about the gas tanks ground wire to the boat, seeing that the gas tank is aluminum do a need an aluminum ground wire or strap to ground the tank and a aluminum chain to secure the gas cap to the gas tank. Tug
 
Yes, but portable tanks are made to be filled outside of the boat.....Not that anyone is going to take issue with it. Many boats have portable tanks, like Boston Whalers, but they have a lined hull and self bailing cockpit, so gas can go overboard as do fumes thru the scuppers (again not the best of ideas).

Generally a copper or monel wire is used for the ground system. Same for the cap if you want to put a wire on it. Monel would be the best. If you look at your outboard most of the wiring will be copper based. Since you have a large tab, and will use a swaged full round fitting to this, with the use of a anti corrosion gel between the bolt, and full round fitting, and spraying it with corrosion block regularly it will last many years.
 
Finally got to put the new tank in, it fits great and i also put the gas gauge in . I have about ( 8 ) weeks before launch so i will take my time to do the wiring. Tug

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Came across this if anyone is interested in replacing their two 12 gallon gas tanks on a 1985 or earlier C-Dory 22' Angler . It's a Pate Plastics Fiberglass 24 gallon fuel tank. Lenght is 30.25 .Width is 19. Height is 11.75 inches so it should fit in there just right. Cost is $390.00 ..looks good also. Tug



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Many of the older fiberglass tanks are vulnerable to ethanol in E10 gas. Probably not a problem here, but something to consider. The tank looks to be of new manufacture.
 
Worked on my gas tank and gas gauge today, seems to be working eccept for the gauge light but i know what i did wrong.Ended up grounding the gas tanks green ground wire to the engine bolt.Will put the ground wire on the inside bolt later, will have to pull the bolt and resweal it. When i was up at the shop i was informed that i need to use a pink wire from the tank's sender to the gas gauge.Any boats that come into the shop with red wires from the gas tanks sender unit will be held untill fixed. That's new to me but he would know.Still have to hook up the fuel line , will do that 2morrow. Tug

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I assume that you mean that your shop wants you to use ABYC wiring code:

C Dory has not always used ABYC wiring code, but for reference here are common uses for the engine and 12 volt DC as per ABYC:

Red is either fused or unfused positive 12 volts
Black or yellow is negative 12 volts

Yellow red stripe -- starting circuit
Brown with yellow stripe -- bilge blowers
Brown solid--either generator/alternator to regulator, or bilge pump positive
Orange --accessory feed or alternator to battery charging circuit
Purple--Ignition
Dark Blue--cabin and instrument lights
Light blue--oil pressure to sensor
Tan--to water temperature sensor
Pink--to Fuel gauge sensor from tank sender
Gray--Navigation lights
Orange with yellow stripe--Horn
Tan with stripe- to alarm color of stripe indicates sensor--ie light blue= oil pressure
Green with stripe--tilt or trim down
Blue with strip--Tilt or Trim up

Of course solid Green is bonding.

It is probably worthwhile to keep these codes on the boat--and check to see if your C Dory follows the code.
 
thataway..i assume as of 2012 this wiring code will be required and enforced. As he put it, apparently someone could come across a loose red sender wire behind the dash and inadvertently attach it to a positive power source thinking it was a positive wire with deadly results. I noticed that my new gas tank has an anti-siphon device as well. Thanks for the information.i will do that. Tug
 
The shop person's point is valid. It is also a very good idea to label all of the wiring as you put it in/modify it.

However, I doubt that anyone is going to enforce the ABYC wiring scheme. I know that the Tom Cat did not use it. I don't think that the 22 I have uses it either--at least not all of it. So I am labeling the wires.
 
Found a 4 pronged Spade connector in my never throw out junk box..that did the trick...mounted my Vexilar FL-18 flasher on my downrigger plate..using an old Eagle Finder Quick release mount which also swivels..just had to tap a couple of bolt holes to secure it.Made up a cable to the battery for power and bought a 20 foot transducer cable so i can place the transducer in different locations. Tug

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