Scary trailer incident

rogerbum":71bfxb09 said:
Good thing YOU can edit you posts after 30 mins have passed :wink: (and when you do, feel free to delete this smart assed comment).

No, no...I eat my own dog food.

Here's a link to info on the Fulton 3700 Two Speed that should never go bad... :mrgreen:
 
Tying down a boat on a trailer is a very good thing for safety. I once had a 22' sailboat which broke away from the truck, rolled downhill and was stopped by a low wall over which the hull passed. The only thing which kept the boat on the trailer were 2 ea motorcycle tie-downs, which I had put over the rear of the boat from one side to the other. Les, that was more than a 2G hit and in Mexico. I saw my whole life pass before me, just wondering if I could make the border in time. Fortunately, all's well that ends well (Shakespeare.)

From that lesson, I always make sure the boat is tied down so that it can't move fore or aft. I use a big strap that goes over the back of the cockpit, between the cleats and the railing. Straps to the eyes on the boat transom will keep the boat from going backwards, but help it to go forward. I'm not sure how strong the strap has to be, cause those M/C straps weren't too strong, but they saved my rear.

Driving down the interstates (especially US-80,) I'm amazed how rough the ride is, but so far the boat hasn't shifted. I do check the (manual) winch cable often, but never found it loose.

Making sure that the boat stays on the trailer is an essential part of trailer boating, and I've learned that by experience. Once will make a believer of you.

Boris
 
Courtesy of Google, here is one source of 3 and 4 inch wide ratchet straps. The 3 inch straps have a breaking strength of 15,000 lbs and a working load limit of 5,000 lbs.
http://www.uscargocontrol.com/ratchetstraps3-c-5.html

They come in a variety of hook configurations, including chain, so you should be able to find something that works with your trailer. I believe that this is the type of ratchet strap that Les was sugggesting.

The other thing that strikes me is that if the boat is cinched tight to the trailer over the aft end of the cockpit, it will not be able to move independently from the trailer and therefore, the possibility of acceleration forces on the strap is far less.
 
Catch 22":26r34ox7 said:
Im gonna be pulling the boat off the trailer, while its off id like to make the trailer perfect for the boat, i think im gonna extend the tongue about 18 inches so the boat doesnt stick off the back off the trailer anymore (does anyone elses boat hang off the back),

Yep! Mine hangs about 18" off of the bunks. Was gonna correct this, and add some bunks, but I'll be picking up a used double axle trailer next month. One of them will be set up the way I want it to be, just not sure which one yet. The boat has only traveled about 1500 miles on the current trailer, with no ill effects due to the setup, but I don't like it!
 
Would it be unreasonable to convert a single axil (Pacific) bunk trailer to a Tandem axil? (As in add the whole second axil, with/without brakes, and fenders). I like my trailer, but would like it better if it was a Tandem.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Very possible. You might have to reposition the first axle. I would buy the parts from the trailer manufacturer so they match. You will most likely pay a little more from them. Might be cheaper to replace both from a trailer supply.
 
Harvey, (I finally got my logo's from Fluid!) exciting.

But aside from that, I contacted EZ load about adding a second axle to my trailer and they told me flat out "their trailers were DOT rated as engineered and there was no way they would help anyone modify one!) May just be our litigious society.

At any rate, I'm now tempted to write them and tell them I bent my axle and need to replace it and then see what response I get.

I'm fairly sure a good trailer shop could do a mod. but I think I'm going to keep looking for a good used tandem and then sell mine. If you find out more let me know.

Chris
 
Jody: Thanks, I'm thinking I will look into that. Doesn't seem like it would be to hard. Seems that the current axle would move forward some, splitting the difference between the two in order to maintain the current center of support.

Chris: Shucks, I never thought to ask the lawyers about it. Just can't anything be too easy can it? Wouldn't think that adding an axle, especially when not adding extra weight, would make the risk management department break out in a sweat. Can think of several reasons that should relieve their stress by half.

Little extra towing weight, but safer ride for the CD, and the rest of us.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Although I'm pretty conservative about securing the boat to the trailer (I use a pair of transom straps, one gunwale strap, one bow eye strap, in addition to bunks - not rollers - and a bow stop with mechanical winch and safety chain), any discussion about boats bouncing up and down has to consider the fact that there are two moving objects - the boat and the trailer - and that the goal is to keep them from separating.

If the boat weighs more than the trailer, seems to me you aren't strapping the boat to the trailer, you're strapping the trailer to the boat. The same straps that keep your trailer and 3,000 pound boat from bouncing away from each other should do the same when you either trade up to a boat weighing 5,000 pounds, or, preferably, load your 3,000 pound boat with 1,500 pounds of beer, and 500 pounds of fish. In this situation, the weight of the trailer, not that of the boat, would dicate the sizing of the straps.

Boats wanting to move sideways, or forward into the back of your tow vehicle, obviously require a different discussion. But, I think the above is correct when worrying about the boat bouncing off the trailer.
 
Another scary trailer incident.

Aa few years ago towing a C-22 on an EZ Loader I stopped to find the information on where to launch which was in the boat.

As I walked back to the boat I saw one of the bolts that holds the front cross piece with the rollers to the frame was missing and the cross piece was almost on the ground at one side! The bow stop was holding most of the weight.

With some help from strangers who said they too were boaters we jacked up the cross piece and installed a new bolt.

At home I removed the bolts from the front and rear cross pieces and replaced them with Grade 8 bolts inserted so the nuts were now on the outside where they are easy to see. I also double nutted and used lock tight on the locking nuts.

Looking at other EZ Loader trailers rated for heavier loads I saw the same size bolts were used so I think the bolt didn't break but the nut came off.

Ed
 
and I thought replacing all my rusty old bolts with new ones was a good thing.....guess a little rust just might be about the best lock-tite there is! :lol:

I do know that it is not a good idea to put on lock nuts with an impact wrench as they will frequently dislodge the nylon ring. Hand tightening is best.

chris
 
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