Have a C-Dory '08 25ft cruiser and noticed the bilge pump drain outlets (scuppers) at the stern are either at or slightly below the water line when at rest. I'm guessing this was a design ?flaw and not the extra weight of a 3rd battery in the compartment. Wondered if anyone else has dealt with this issue especially in these longer boats and any concern. I imagine to raise the scuppers would be an expensive proposition.
scuppers at or below waterline
- Thread starter imabrat2
- Start date
I believe that Tom and Joyce Schulke had the same problem on a 2011 boat. I believe he had the thru hulls moved up. On my 2007, no problem--I have yet to get water up in the cockpit--but I don't have a lot of heavy weights sitting back there. My thru hulls may be below the water line temporally--but not normal.
Be thankful they didn't use deck drains like the first run of CD25 hulls in 1995-96.
The outlets for my deck drains are about 8" below the waterline all the time. They are connected via hose to a deck fitting having a grate flush with the deck and a check valve inside. The hoses are inside the below deck lockers on each side. The check valve is basically a ping pong ball that floats to the top to prevent seawater from going beyond it. The system works ok, but often the ping pong ball gets stuck or covered with debris and plugs the drain.
The outlets for my deck drains are about 8" below the waterline all the time. They are connected via hose to a deck fitting having a grate flush with the deck and a check valve inside. The hoses are inside the below deck lockers on each side. The check valve is basically a ping pong ball that floats to the top to prevent seawater from going beyond it. The system works ok, but often the ping pong ball gets stuck or covered with debris and plugs the drain.
Avidmagnum12
Member
As Dr. Bob pointed out I had my cockpit drains raised up a couple of inches to the height most others are as they were underwater most of the time. You can only raise them so much. The big problem was the bilge drain was also under water and could siphon water back in. If any of the hoses ruptured with no seacocks it could get bad quickly.
So...I’ve moved the bilge drain up about 10 inches and while I was at it I installed a second pump and a second drain. Whoever installed the original drain obviously did not know what they were doing. I’ve not seen any other 25s with a bilge drain underwater. Anyway.....problem solved!
My boat is quite stern heavy. 200 HP Yamaha, 9.9 Yamaha on A sturdy mount. Three heavy AGM battery’s, Honda 2000 generator, Torqeedo dingy motor, Engel fridge freezer, extra anchor and rode, 3 gallons of generator fuel, two starboard generator mounts, down rigger mounts with downriggers, hoses, rods, cantilevered cockpit cover and other miscellaneous stuff. Of course having full fuel and water lower it a bit more.
A lot does depend on weight. I’m comfortable now with the modifications done.
Tom
So...I’ve moved the bilge drain up about 10 inches and while I was at it I installed a second pump and a second drain. Whoever installed the original drain obviously did not know what they were doing. I’ve not seen any other 25s with a bilge drain underwater. Anyway.....problem solved!
My boat is quite stern heavy. 200 HP Yamaha, 9.9 Yamaha on A sturdy mount. Three heavy AGM battery’s, Honda 2000 generator, Torqeedo dingy motor, Engel fridge freezer, extra anchor and rode, 3 gallons of generator fuel, two starboard generator mounts, down rigger mounts with downriggers, hoses, rods, cantilevered cockpit cover and other miscellaneous stuff. Of course having full fuel and water lower it a bit more.
A lot does depend on weight. I’m comfortable now with the modifications done.
Tom
First of all, THANK YOU for the many replies. I have only a single engine. However I read somewhere that a full tank can change the trim of a 24ft boat from 2-4". It also appears that under 4" from the waterline is not desirable for any thru hull. I think I will maintain a reduced tank weight as I am not going on any long trips in a single day and watch the situation carefully. I improved the seals on the deck hatches last year as they leaked and I want to avoid any more water than "normal". I also replaced hoses. At some point I might decide to make the adjustments a few of you have.
journey on
New member
The cockpit drain overboard hull fitting on a 2005 C-Dory 25, and I suspect on all the 25's built since, is right at the waterline in normal conditions. That means for me, a Honda 150, 3 batteries and a 9.9 on the outboard bracket.
Even at the waterline, the overboard hull fittings are only 1-2" below the cockpit scuppers, so any cockpit water drains slowly. Add in 4 people in the cockpit and the water comes in, which we found out right after we bought the boat. The factory put in check valves but that only slowed the water transfer, in or out.
Since there's only 2" of head between the cockpit floor and the hull fittings, I'm not sure how those fittings can be raised. I also don't see how the cockpit scuppers/fitting can be raised since they're flush with the cockpit floor. Avidmagnum12/Tom, do you have a picture showing the overboard fittings you moved?
My solution was to get two plugs and shove them into the cockpit scuppers when appropriate. That's only when the cockpit is heavily loaded and not when we're cruising along.
May I point out that there's an inspection plate in the rear of the cockpit. If you remove that, there's a direct drain to the bilge pump. So, if all else fails just remove the plate and the water will go down and be pumped out.
Boris
Even at the waterline, the overboard hull fittings are only 1-2" below the cockpit scuppers, so any cockpit water drains slowly. Add in 4 people in the cockpit and the water comes in, which we found out right after we bought the boat. The factory put in check valves but that only slowed the water transfer, in or out.
Since there's only 2" of head between the cockpit floor and the hull fittings, I'm not sure how those fittings can be raised. I also don't see how the cockpit scuppers/fitting can be raised since they're flush with the cockpit floor. Avidmagnum12/Tom, do you have a picture showing the overboard fittings you moved?
My solution was to get two plugs and shove them into the cockpit scuppers when appropriate. That's only when the cockpit is heavily loaded and not when we're cruising along.
May I point out that there's an inspection plate in the rear of the cockpit. If you remove that, there's a direct drain to the bilge pump. So, if all else fails just remove the plate and the water will go down and be pumped out.
Boris
Avidmagnum12
Member
Boris
Here’s the link to the original cockpit drain exit. Both drains and my bilge pump drain were this low. This boat never had true scuppers only drain holes. My new fittings are now at the correct height. The inside the cockpit fittings are original.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php
They could only be raised because they were installed at the factory too low.
I have use plugs in the cockpit when needed and they work.
Call me paranoid if you want but I did not sleep well with my drains and bilge exits open underwater with no seacocks. I’ve seen hoses and fittings fail and know how fast a boat can sink. I also have a bilge alarm...so paranoid mite fit.
Yes.....excess water goes down to the bilge pump and overboard. But with my original bilge drain underwater and no bleed fitting installed at the factory it would pump it out and siphon it back in. That kinda works till the battery goes dead then bye bye boat.
Again....I doubt if there are any other CD-25s out there that will have the problems I had. I think the company that built mine only had the molds for one year and mine was hull #1.
It only took about “one boat unit” to make it safe to my standards and to me that’s money well spent.
Be safe....boat safe....Tom
Here’s the link to the original cockpit drain exit. Both drains and my bilge pump drain were this low. This boat never had true scuppers only drain holes. My new fittings are now at the correct height. The inside the cockpit fittings are original.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php
They could only be raised because they were installed at the factory too low.
I have use plugs in the cockpit when needed and they work.
Call me paranoid if you want but I did not sleep well with my drains and bilge exits open underwater with no seacocks. I’ve seen hoses and fittings fail and know how fast a boat can sink. I also have a bilge alarm...so paranoid mite fit.
Yes.....excess water goes down to the bilge pump and overboard. But with my original bilge drain underwater and no bleed fitting installed at the factory it would pump it out and siphon it back in. That kinda works till the battery goes dead then bye bye boat.
Again....I doubt if there are any other CD-25s out there that will have the problems I had. I think the company that built mine only had the molds for one year and mine was hull #1.
It only took about “one boat unit” to make it safe to my standards and to me that’s money well spent.
Be safe....boat safe....Tom
My concern was the same as C-Otter. I think I am going to buy a couple plugs to have available for the drain holes (they are higher than the scuppers of course) but I was mainly concerned about the flapper valves to the pump in the bilge. I need to look into that alarm. As always lots of good information.
South of Heaven
New member
My old 25 would occasionally take on water from the scuppers being below the WL. I had a 200 Suzuki, water tank in the stern, batteries etc. It would only happen when I had a few passengers in the cockpit and under the right (wrong) conditions. It was not a safety concern....BUT it was a pain in the butt sometimes.
My thinking was always this: It's better to have a self bailing cockpit that gets wet sometimes...then to have a NON self bailing cockpit that could possibly be swamped by a rogue wave and not drain fast enough.
I agree with the plugs/bung idea. If you know when and where your scuppers are prone to be below the WL then put in in the bungs. BUT DONT FORGET TO REMOVE THEM
My thinking was always this: It's better to have a self bailing cockpit that gets wet sometimes...then to have a NON self bailing cockpit that could possibly be swamped by a rogue wave and not drain fast enough.
I agree with the plugs/bung idea. If you know when and where your scuppers are prone to be below the WL then put in in the bungs. BUT DONT FORGET TO REMOVE THEM