SE Alaska 2022 - Family of 5 in 22' C-Dory
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ChrisMcBride
New member
June 6, 2022 Day 10: Vixen Harbor to Wrangell 67 miles, 1130 total miles.
We stopped by Anan Wildlife Observatory to see what the anchorage may be like if we wanted to stop and look at the bears there on the way home. From our understanding the anchorage is a little iffy and the guide books recommend someone staying with the boat if you do anchor. The idea of leaving one person behind while the rest enjoy the experience doesn't sound too good for us. There's a forest cabin that they rent out, which could be a lot of fun with lots of advanced planning.
We booked a place to stay for the night, got fuel, and tied up to the transient docks.
When we were unloading the boat to go to the hotel the two big kids were playing on the dock, I was holding Ellen in the cockpit, and Amanda was packing up what we would need in the hotel. All of a sudden I heard some loud thumps near the starboard bow, the boat rock, and Lillian scream. Ryan fell into the water in-between the dock and the boat.
I set Ellen down so quickly that I dropped her part of the way, leaped out of the boat, and got Ryan out of the freezing cold water. We were extremely lucky that it was a calm day, the docks were short, that he didn't hit his head, etc etc. All told, I think Ryan spent less than 3 seconds in the water.
We stripped him naked, toweled him off, turned the heat up in the boat, and got warm clothes for him. Ryan was in good spirits the moment he was on the dock again and said he was fine. Lillian on the other hand was visibly shaken up seeing her brother disappear like that. It gave us a huge scare.
He should have been wearing his life jacket, but wasn't, because Amanda and I have grown lax in requiring life jackets while on the docks. I think a combination of them getting older, a lot of time coming and going on the docks, not wearing them when sleeping, and difficulty of carrying extra lifejackets everywhere we go on shore all contributed to my complacency. Ryan and Lillian do an exceptional job (near 100%) wearing their life jackets when we're under way, without needing to be told, and I'm very proud of them for that. We have new rules to prevent a recurrence.
Speaking of kids life jackets, you may notice in some pictures that they are wearing inflatable life jackets (Spinlock Deckvest Cento). While these life jackets are certified internationally for our kids ages, weight, and size, the life jackets are not USCG approved for kids under 16. As far as I'm aware, the USCG has not approved any inflatable life jackets for kids under 16 (for lots of good reasons).
I periodically re-visit/re-consider my choice to outfit them with these life jackets, and am always open to reversing course. My line of thinking is that a life jacket that they actually wear (our story shows some gaps) is safer than a lifejacket that is stored in a hatch, and I trust the international certifications.
We still carry well fitted, good condition, USCG approved life jackets for them on-board the boat at all times for emergency use, and to stay legal.
Ryan and Lillian wore their life jackets the rest of the day, including the almost 1 mile walk to the hotel.
Ryan’s Thoughts: I fell into the ocean at a dock…so yeah.
Lillian’s Thoughts: Today hmm. So today I had the best breakfast ever! Then me and Ryan played find the button maps on minecraft, then mom booked the hotel, and then Ryan fell into the water and now here we are!
We stopped by Anan Wildlife Observatory to see what the anchorage may be like if we wanted to stop and look at the bears there on the way home. From our understanding the anchorage is a little iffy and the guide books recommend someone staying with the boat if you do anchor. The idea of leaving one person behind while the rest enjoy the experience doesn't sound too good for us. There's a forest cabin that they rent out, which could be a lot of fun with lots of advanced planning.
We booked a place to stay for the night, got fuel, and tied up to the transient docks.
When we were unloading the boat to go to the hotel the two big kids were playing on the dock, I was holding Ellen in the cockpit, and Amanda was packing up what we would need in the hotel. All of a sudden I heard some loud thumps near the starboard bow, the boat rock, and Lillian scream. Ryan fell into the water in-between the dock and the boat.
I set Ellen down so quickly that I dropped her part of the way, leaped out of the boat, and got Ryan out of the freezing cold water. We were extremely lucky that it was a calm day, the docks were short, that he didn't hit his head, etc etc. All told, I think Ryan spent less than 3 seconds in the water.
We stripped him naked, toweled him off, turned the heat up in the boat, and got warm clothes for him. Ryan was in good spirits the moment he was on the dock again and said he was fine. Lillian on the other hand was visibly shaken up seeing her brother disappear like that. It gave us a huge scare.
He should have been wearing his life jacket, but wasn't, because Amanda and I have grown lax in requiring life jackets while on the docks. I think a combination of them getting older, a lot of time coming and going on the docks, not wearing them when sleeping, and difficulty of carrying extra lifejackets everywhere we go on shore all contributed to my complacency. Ryan and Lillian do an exceptional job (near 100%) wearing their life jackets when we're under way, without needing to be told, and I'm very proud of them for that. We have new rules to prevent a recurrence.
Speaking of kids life jackets, you may notice in some pictures that they are wearing inflatable life jackets (Spinlock Deckvest Cento). While these life jackets are certified internationally for our kids ages, weight, and size, the life jackets are not USCG approved for kids under 16. As far as I'm aware, the USCG has not approved any inflatable life jackets for kids under 16 (for lots of good reasons).
I periodically re-visit/re-consider my choice to outfit them with these life jackets, and am always open to reversing course. My line of thinking is that a life jacket that they actually wear (our story shows some gaps) is safer than a lifejacket that is stored in a hatch, and I trust the international certifications.
We still carry well fitted, good condition, USCG approved life jackets for them on-board the boat at all times for emergency use, and to stay legal.
Ryan and Lillian wore their life jackets the rest of the day, including the almost 1 mile walk to the hotel.
Ryan’s Thoughts: I fell into the ocean at a dock…so yeah.
Lillian’s Thoughts: Today hmm. So today I had the best breakfast ever! Then me and Ryan played find the button maps on minecraft, then mom booked the hotel, and then Ryan fell into the water and now here we are!
ChrisMcBride
New member
June 7, 2022 Day 11: Wrangell to Thomas Bay/Ruth’s Island: 101 miles: 1231 total miles
This morning I left the hotel earlier than the rest of the crew to change the engine oil on the boat. On the way to the harbor I stopped at the local hardware store to buy 2 more 5 gallon jerry jugs, a few more canisters of butane, and bug nets for the kids.
It was my first time changing the engine oil with the boat in the water. The oil pump worked really well and the oil change went well. I changed the engine oil, oil filter, fuel filter, and water/fuel separator.
I have spares for most critical items (for example, a spare prop, thrust washer, washer, cotter pin and wrench) since I know it's so easy to drop things in the water, especially when in a hurry, under stress, or distracted. It's really easy to set something on top of the engine, dock, lazarette, etc and then accidentally knock it in the water.
While changing the oil, I was keenly aware that the oil cap is something I could easily drop/lose. It's plastic, so maybe it would float, but I don't want to find out. Next time I'm at the parts store I'll get a spare.
We ate at Nic’s Place, a pizza place. Everyone was very happy with the food, which doesn't always happen!
As nice as hotel stays are, they are also a huge pain (and $$). We have to unload quite a bit of stuff, and most hotels are a non-trivial walk to get to. We are normally tired and grouchy and I’m not sure how refreshed we felt after this stay. I’m not sure how many more hotel stays we will do. We need to try out marina showers, as I know that's something Amanda is apprehensive about with young kids.
We were looking forward to spending some time in Petersburg, but the weather was looking OK, so we just got gas and decided to do a side trip and visit LeConte Glacier and skip Petersburg for now.
The guide books we used in planning this trip (Exploring Southeast Alaska: Dixon Entrance to Skagway by Don Douglas, has been my favorite) make the entrance to LeConte Glacier sound particularly treacherous. I was very nervous for this part of the trip, also my first time boating through icebergs, but had read numerous trips reports and felt it was doable.
A few miles before the entrance, off in the distance, we saw a group of boats just hanging out. They either looked like they were fishing, or waiting for something. Even further in the distance we thought we saw what what could be waves breaking.
My first thought was there was a small bar in the entrance, and that the boats were waiting for slack (I'm always very aware of what the tide and current are doing, as that tends to be one of the most important aspects of navigating)
As we got closer to the “boats” that were just hanging out we realized they weren’t boats after all, they were huge icebergs. The waves we thought were breaking in the distance was an ice field. The closer we got to the glacier, the more ice there was. Huge blue icebergs, small clear icebergs. Beautiful ice sculptures. It was incredible!
We slowly picked a path through the ice and it just got more and more thick with ice. Everyone was mesmerized. The kids kept saying that this would make the whole boat trip worth it. We went as far as we could, but had to turn around before we reached LeConte Glacier.
After LeConte we headed to our anchorage spot for the night in Thomas Bay. We stayed at Ruth’s Island there. Once we were anchored we pulled out some bergy bits we got at LeConte and all had some bergy bit soda. The kids thought that was the coolest thing. Such a spectacular day!
Having later visited Glacier bay, Tracy Arm, and Endicott Arm, I still think that LeConte is one of my highlights of the trip. The sheer size and quantity of the iceburgs was incredible.
Ryan’s Thoughts: We saw a deer and we saw icebergs!!! It was amazing. In Minecraft I went to a woodland mansion and got a totem of undying. I made it home with a parrot very very happy!
Lillian’s Thoughts: Today was fine, I didn’t have breakfast and pizza for lunch then we went on the boat and we drove to some icebergs! not its dinner! Love it!
This morning I left the hotel earlier than the rest of the crew to change the engine oil on the boat. On the way to the harbor I stopped at the local hardware store to buy 2 more 5 gallon jerry jugs, a few more canisters of butane, and bug nets for the kids.
It was my first time changing the engine oil with the boat in the water. The oil pump worked really well and the oil change went well. I changed the engine oil, oil filter, fuel filter, and water/fuel separator.
I have spares for most critical items (for example, a spare prop, thrust washer, washer, cotter pin and wrench) since I know it's so easy to drop things in the water, especially when in a hurry, under stress, or distracted. It's really easy to set something on top of the engine, dock, lazarette, etc and then accidentally knock it in the water.
While changing the oil, I was keenly aware that the oil cap is something I could easily drop/lose. It's plastic, so maybe it would float, but I don't want to find out. Next time I'm at the parts store I'll get a spare.
We ate at Nic’s Place, a pizza place. Everyone was very happy with the food, which doesn't always happen!
As nice as hotel stays are, they are also a huge pain (and $$). We have to unload quite a bit of stuff, and most hotels are a non-trivial walk to get to. We are normally tired and grouchy and I’m not sure how refreshed we felt after this stay. I’m not sure how many more hotel stays we will do. We need to try out marina showers, as I know that's something Amanda is apprehensive about with young kids.
We were looking forward to spending some time in Petersburg, but the weather was looking OK, so we just got gas and decided to do a side trip and visit LeConte Glacier and skip Petersburg for now.
The guide books we used in planning this trip (Exploring Southeast Alaska: Dixon Entrance to Skagway by Don Douglas, has been my favorite) make the entrance to LeConte Glacier sound particularly treacherous. I was very nervous for this part of the trip, also my first time boating through icebergs, but had read numerous trips reports and felt it was doable.
A few miles before the entrance, off in the distance, we saw a group of boats just hanging out. They either looked like they were fishing, or waiting for something. Even further in the distance we thought we saw what what could be waves breaking.
My first thought was there was a small bar in the entrance, and that the boats were waiting for slack (I'm always very aware of what the tide and current are doing, as that tends to be one of the most important aspects of navigating)
As we got closer to the “boats” that were just hanging out we realized they weren’t boats after all, they were huge icebergs. The waves we thought were breaking in the distance was an ice field. The closer we got to the glacier, the more ice there was. Huge blue icebergs, small clear icebergs. Beautiful ice sculptures. It was incredible!
We slowly picked a path through the ice and it just got more and more thick with ice. Everyone was mesmerized. The kids kept saying that this would make the whole boat trip worth it. We went as far as we could, but had to turn around before we reached LeConte Glacier.
After LeConte we headed to our anchorage spot for the night in Thomas Bay. We stayed at Ruth’s Island there. Once we were anchored we pulled out some bergy bits we got at LeConte and all had some bergy bit soda. The kids thought that was the coolest thing. Such a spectacular day!
Having later visited Glacier bay, Tracy Arm, and Endicott Arm, I still think that LeConte is one of my highlights of the trip. The sheer size and quantity of the iceburgs was incredible.
Ryan’s Thoughts: We saw a deer and we saw icebergs!!! It was amazing. In Minecraft I went to a woodland mansion and got a totem of undying. I made it home with a parrot very very happy!
Lillian’s Thoughts: Today was fine, I didn’t have breakfast and pizza for lunch then we went on the boat and we drove to some icebergs! not its dinner! Love it!
Pat Anderson
New member
Excellent narrative and photos! You and the kids will remember this for a long, long time! I am however really surprised at how many miles you are choosing to run per day. You must have a "schedule." On our 2017 Great Loop, 40 miles was a long day for us! Once you rounded Cape Caution,there was so much great scenery to see that you must have just whizzed by! Misty Fjords National Monument is worth more than a day or two! Be that as it may, I am enjoying your journey vicariously for sure. I cruised from Blaine to Ketchikan in 2006, and at my age the odds are slim to none that Patty and I will ever get back to Alaska. Between you and Hunky Dory Jay, you are providing great information for future Alaska cruisers. Looking forward to more!
Oh, Pat... am I misremembering* you doing Alaska in a week or so? :twisted:
We all travel at our own pace. I remember you doing the Erie Canal and Trent-Severn portion of the loop in just a few days. It took us a couple months for that same stretch, with so much to see and do. One way isn't "the best way," it just depends on one's traveling style.
It is fun seeing what this family did on their adventure. I also enjoyed your "Baxter Pooped Here" tour. It is interesting to see how we all do things, and in a way that suits each traveler.
--------
Our mutual late friend Warren introduced me to that "misremembering" phrase.
We all travel at our own pace. I remember you doing the Erie Canal and Trent-Severn portion of the loop in just a few days. It took us a couple months for that same stretch, with so much to see and do. One way isn't "the best way," it just depends on one's traveling style.
It is fun seeing what this family did on their adventure. I also enjoyed your "Baxter Pooped Here" tour. It is interesting to see how we all do things, and in a way that suits each traveler.
--------
Our mutual late friend Warren introduced me to that "misremembering" phrase.
ChrisMcBride
New member
Pat Anderson":cy0g3wtf said:
Oh I agree, there are so many places we'd like to come back to spend a lot more time. I'm a big believer in the old adage that "The most dangerous thing to have onboard a boat is a schedule.", so I like to think of it more as route "options", where daily decisions change the future options.
One of the most difficult aspects of planning this trip was deciding how we wanted to use the limited time available. My work schedule was the biggest constraint, but one we were able to work around a bit because I can work remotely. I was lucky to secure 4 weeks off of work in June, 2 more weeks off in mid August, and a great deal on a short term rental in Juneau between those two blocks of time off.
But how to best use that time? That's the tough question.... The wealth of experience shared by others on c-brats was super helpful in listing out the options and seeing all of the ways others have done the trip.
We thought about trailering up to Prince Rupert or Skagway so that we could spend more time exploring Alaska with our limited time. Not knowing when (or if) I'd be able to get so much time off work in the future, we decided to do the full loop, for the experience of seeing the whole route all at once.
I think we'll trailer to Skagway for our next trip, which will hopefully be soon! We're also hoping to start doing more extended weekend trips to Vancouver island.
The second constraint was our Glacier Bay permit. Glacier Bay was one of the top destinations on our list, so we worked hard to secure a permit well in advance. This was something we were really glad we did, as we met many people along the way who had hoped to get last minute permits but couldn't. We were pretty nervous about getting stuck in bad weather and missing our window.
The trip still isn't over, so it's hard to say what went well/not well with the scheduling, but I'll be sure to report back at the end of the trip. We had hoped to do more weekend trips out of Juneau, but knew that it would be highly dependent on weather. So far, the weather hasn't cooperated so we've stayed near port the past two weekends. More about our go/no-go decisions on those in a future post!
Pat, any recommendations for favorite/must-see places on our way back (particularly between Dixon Entrance and Cape Caution)? We're working out tentative plans for the trip back, and having potential stops along the way back pending weather is always helpful!
WOW, I just started and caught up with you for today. . . . What SUPER thread. Great pix, and narration. That is a trip that you all will enjoy for a very long time. Has anybody said that yet :wink Thanks for sharing it. I agree, your miles are many, and you do what you have to do, but going back is more work and $$$ than many of use will ever do, and then there are some that go back over and over and over again (Jay and Jolee for instance).
The other C-Dory you met that was single handing was probably Devon on C-Ration. He mentioned that he saw you.
On my smaller and older Garmin plotter, sometimes it freezes up or blanks out. I have to disconnect it, and take the battery out, the reinstall it and hook it back up before restarting it. That usually brings everything back to working order. Always good to have double redundancy.
Yes, on the PFD's, and I think you are doing the right thing. The best one is the one you wear.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
The other C-Dory you met that was single handing was probably Devon on C-Ration. He mentioned that he saw you.
On my smaller and older Garmin plotter, sometimes it freezes up or blanks out. I have to disconnect it, and take the battery out, the reinstall it and hook it back up before restarting it. That usually brings everything back to working order. Always good to have double redundancy.
Yes, on the PFD's, and I think you are doing the right thing. The best one is the one you wear.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon