Securing to a buoy

B

bridma

New member
I did not see this subject in the archives, "Securing to a buoy", so here we go. When I had my Bruce anchor, I found that the line to the buoy would go tight and move the anchor slightly in it's roller making a small clinking sound. No big deal, except that I am a very light sleeper and every sound seems magnified at night. Since switching to a Manson Supreme anchor (far superior anchor in my humble opinion but that's another subject :) ) I found that the edges of the anchor are more pronounced, so now another concern is the rope fraying on the edges as the boat moves around, as well as the 'clinking'. I have not tried this yet, but I am thinking next time I am on a buoy, I will let out 4 or 5 ft of chain and bring the anchor around the side of the roller and secure it on deck. This could be problem solved?

Martin.
 
Martin,

It sounds like you are running your mooring line out to the buoy through the anchor pulpit. Is that correct? If so, why? I have never considered using the bow towing eye, it's just too awkward (for me) to reach down over the bow, etc. etc., I suppose one could permanently attach a line to that eye and bring it back over the bow but I've never done that. We have used the center bow cleat running the line out just beside the anchor pulpit. We have also used one of the two breast cleats if not a lot of wind is forecast. Interesting question.
 
colobear":cm6lp9c3 said:
Martin,

It sounds like you are running your mooring line out to the buoy through the anchor pulpit. Is that correct? If so, why? I have never considered using the bow towing eye, it's just too awkward (for me) to reach down over the bow, etc. etc., I suppose one could permanently attach a line to that eye and bring it back over the bow but I've never done that. We have used the center bow cleat running the line out just beside the anchor pulpit. We have also used one of the two breast cleats if not a lot of wind is forecast. Interesting question.
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I have not tried the bow towing eye because it is to close to the waterline and to awkward to get at. Yes, I have been running my mooring line out through the anchor pulpit. Your idea of running the line just outside the anchor pulpit to the bow cleat is another option but I think that would still leave my line rubbing against the edge of the Manson Anchor which is sharper than most. Not sure if I trust the breast cleats, they don't look as strong as the bow cleat, and when the line tightens and the boat swings, I'll be hitting the Manson again. Be interesting to hear from other Manson anchor owners what they do?

Martin.
 
When tying to a buoy I have always tied to the bow towing eye. I keep a 4 foot rope tied to the eye and than secured to the anchor when not in use. Very easy clip and un-clip when you need it. I use my boat doc hook to reach down and retrieve it when I need to unhook. Never an issue falling over board.
 
hambone":22u1gqop said:
When tying to a buoy I have always tied to the bow towing eye. I keep a 4 foot rope tied to the eye and than secured to the anchor when not in use. Very easy clip and un-clip when you need it. I use my boat doc hook to reach down and retrieve it when I need to unhook. Never an issue falling over board.
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Now there's another good idea, I like it. This site is invaluable.

Martin.
 
I run a line through the buoy eye and run the two ends each outside the forward rail uprights and secure back to the bow cleat behind the anchor .. Easy to release since both ends are on board.

jd
 
We generally have used a system similar to Ninrods--but also have a line with a shackle that we can attach to the bow eye (and use this as a snubber with the anchor rode. We have put either chocks or 1/2 round on the side of the deck to avoid chafing on the fiberglass. I cannot think of an instance where I have run a line to a buoy or piling thru the anchor roller, because of the issues which you raise. Even at anchor, we rarely lead the snubbers thru the bow roller.
 
Thank you for your input and idea's, and there was me thinking that the mooring line always goes through the anchor roller, duh! I have decided on this set up. 4 or 5 ft of 1/2" rode with a heavy duty snap on clip at each end and a snubber half way along to act as a shock absorber. One end clipped on the bow towing eye, the other end clipped to the forward bow cleat. 25' of half inch rode with another heavy duty clip at each end.
Come along side the buoy and from the cockpit slip the long rode through the eye of the buoy. Lead up to the bow and clip on to the short rode. When ready to slip, use the boat hook to haul up the short rode.

Martin.
 
i haven't spent much time on buoys so I'm not really qualified to offer advice, but is there any risk with this approach? I think this is basically what we did one morning while moored at Jones Island.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QwNDFcrFwM

after re-reading Bob's post, I can see where this approach might not be perfect considering rope could chaff a bit on the fiberglass....?
 
DuckDogTitus":22bcehs8 said:
i haven't spent much time on buoys so I'm not really qualified to offer advice, but is there any risk with this approach? I think this is basically what we did one morning while moored at Jones Island.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QwNDFcrFwM

after re-reading Bob's post, I can see where this approach might not be perfect considering rope could chaff a bit on the fiberglass....?
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The youtube vid does not look great to me. The line can still catch on the anchor when taut. This was my concern that started this topic. There is no snubber on the line. Anyone who has been on a buoy when the wind picks up big time can attest it is no fun with the boat jerking around. In my opinion a snubber should always be used.

Martin.
 
The concept of that way of mooring to the buoy is OK. but the execution may be a bit of the issue. Various areas have different ways to securing to the buoy. Some have this pennant, some have pickups, with sand lines, (going to the aft cleat or a line to the aft cleat. Some directly to a steel shackle or loop in the buoy, some to a chain which goes thru the buoy.

The issue, if you take the line to the correct distance, and thru chocks. which bring the point of attachment of the line aft, it can avoid chafing on the anchor. One has to be sure how secure the bow eye is. Some have posted with loose glass around their towing eye... I have been known to back up the eye with a block of oak, then glass that into the hull to spread out the load, with a larger eye, or U bolt. On our big ketch, I had a snatch block on the chain plate for the dolphin striker. This was very strong, and set up for loads of about 15,000 lbs. I had devices to hook into the eyes--such as the "happy hooker"--and several other devices, then I had the load right at the waterline.

The bow eye works fine--just be sure it is well backed up.
 
As noted, there are many ways that buoys present themselves. The parks in BC seem to simply have a metal eye and a shackle. I have no problem taking the line through the guide on the anchor roller, leading it aft and picking up the buoy before taking the line back across the anchor roller and to the centreline cleat. Of course I watch for chafing on the anchor. I may think about changing the arrangement to avoid any chafing on the shackle but I have time to think about that.

May main concern comes from a change of tide on a calm night. the boat naturally comes up against the buoy right at the bow, simply catenary pull from the weight of the line. the metal eye is then free to batter the gelcoat under the bow and takes every opportunity (small ripples will do it) to do so. I am awoken by the bumps and naturally concerned for my hull finish. Any suggestion?
 
Thread a "pool noodle" onto the bow line--that is soft and stiff--and will keep the buoy away. Lots of uses for Pool noodles" We take the last years in the pool on the boat--use for fenders, plugging up holes in the boat--like around the air conditioner, and aft holes for the rigging to run thru.
 
thataway":3w4buf8z said:
Lots of uses for Pool noodles
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Aren't they handy? I cut a section to push onto the door frame where it's possible to hit one's head on the way in and out (when the door is open). Use a section under the shank of the anchor to keep it from bouncing/banging on the roller channel, and.... a bunch of other things I can't think of at the moment.

I like the idea of using a section to keep away from a buoy :thup
 
Good idea using those noodles on the door frame Sunbeam. First two years I owned Bootleghooch I wore a bicycle helmet while boating! The frame was stained red with blood from bonking my head going in and out. Looked like a scene from a Wes Craven movie.
 
The standard setup in the community of our Summer home, where we moor out on buoys nightly, is: using the towing bow eye, run your mooring line back along the side of the boat and secure the buoy end inside the cockpit. I used the bulkhead vertical hand grab rail with my 22's. You simply come alongside the buoy, grab it with your boat hook, and click on. In calm water and the clip in your hand you can hook up without stopping. I have a real nice 5/8" line with a SS swivel clip woven into the buoy end, then I use the factory loop on the bow end. Best, Mike.
 
Forgot to clarify my procedure: after attaching your line to the buoy, you drop the works into the water and the boat is secured from the bow eye to the mooring buoy via your mooring line. Advantage is: no climbing forward or around and no excess leaning out of the boat to do your hookup. Bow ends up into wind, waves, current. I'd NEVER recommend a procedure that left your boat beam or stern-to the weather; I don't even like to use the anchor roller for overnight mooring as I feel it's too high off the water's surface. Cheers! Mike
 
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