CheckRaise
New member
I just installed the Horizon 600 GF free-fall windlass, and it's apparent that my existing anchor/bow roller won't self-launch. Any recommendations for replacement hardware?
self-launching anchor
- Thread starter CheckRaise
- Start date
CheckRaise-
Short answer:
1. Find out what type anchor and rode works best in your area and go ahead and get the best for your situation that will also fit your windlass. This is not a piece of equipment to go "cheapo" on, your life could depend on it. Buy the Simpson-Lawrence rode, it's matched to the windlass requirements. Get all the length you think you'll ever need. With 15-20 feet of 1/4" chain, another 300 feet of 1/2'' 3 strand nylon rope will fit into the CD-22 locker if you think you'll ever use that much. The anchor type depends on the bottom types, your use, etc.
2. Buy the Simpson Lawrence Pivoting Bow Roller (About $150) intended for windlass use. Everything else is a compromise or make-do. This baby works, every time, all the time. Those of us with it, swear by it.
The whole idea of having a windlass is not only for the convenience, but even more importantly to be able to launch and retrieve the anchor system from the safe position inside the cabin while also being able to steer and maneuver the boat. If you have to go out on the bow because of frequent jam ups and snarls, you are pretty much back to Square One after spending $1000 or more!!!
Go ahead and get it right the first time so you'll only have to put it together and pay for it once. Don't ask me how I know! Joe.
Short answer:
1. Find out what type anchor and rode works best in your area and go ahead and get the best for your situation that will also fit your windlass. This is not a piece of equipment to go "cheapo" on, your life could depend on it. Buy the Simpson-Lawrence rode, it's matched to the windlass requirements. Get all the length you think you'll ever need. With 15-20 feet of 1/4" chain, another 300 feet of 1/2'' 3 strand nylon rope will fit into the CD-22 locker if you think you'll ever use that much. The anchor type depends on the bottom types, your use, etc.
2. Buy the Simpson Lawrence Pivoting Bow Roller (About $150) intended for windlass use. Everything else is a compromise or make-do. This baby works, every time, all the time. Those of us with it, swear by it.
The whole idea of having a windlass is not only for the convenience, but even more importantly to be able to launch and retrieve the anchor system from the safe position inside the cabin while also being able to steer and maneuver the boat. If you have to go out on the bow because of frequent jam ups and snarls, you are pretty much back to Square One after spending $1000 or more!!!
Go ahead and get it right the first time so you'll only have to put it together and pay for it once. Don't ask me how I know! Joe.
CheckRaise
New member
Thanks, Wolf. I already have a good S&L rode.
Looks like this is what you're talking about? I'm ordering one now.
Link to bow roller
Looks like this is what you're talking about? I'm ordering one now.
Link to bow roller
John-
That's the baby! You'll love it!!!
Be sure to seal it up real good around the old and new holes in the bow deck and use large stainless fender washers and locknuts underneath to distribute the load.
At the very front of the Detail Photos for Anchors and Anchoring Systems there's a photo of an anchor locker drain fitting that Mike installed on the original Tyboo. As I remember, it's actually a Perko gas vent fitting designed to vent while keeping the spray out.
I have one, but never installed it because my rode seems to dry out without need for a drain.
If you decide you need one, we can look up the thread that discusses how to install one. There's a double-wall arrangement up there between the anchor locker and the outer hull that has to have a sleeve installed between them to avoid leaking into the buoyancy chamber in the bow. The fitting mentioned above has a barb on it with a threaded nut that just sleeves the arrangement perfectly (See note under photo that follows.)
Photo
Good Luck and keep us undated on your installation! Joe.
That's the baby! You'll love it!!!
Be sure to seal it up real good around the old and new holes in the bow deck and use large stainless fender washers and locknuts underneath to distribute the load.
At the very front of the Detail Photos for Anchors and Anchoring Systems there's a photo of an anchor locker drain fitting that Mike installed on the original Tyboo. As I remember, it's actually a Perko gas vent fitting designed to vent while keeping the spray out.
I have one, but never installed it because my rode seems to dry out without need for a drain.
If you decide you need one, we can look up the thread that discusses how to install one. There's a double-wall arrangement up there between the anchor locker and the outer hull that has to have a sleeve installed between them to avoid leaking into the buoyancy chamber in the bow. The fitting mentioned above has a barb on it with a threaded nut that just sleeves the arrangement perfectly (See note under photo that follows.)
Photo
Good Luck and keep us undated on your installation! Joe.
Little Catelyn
New member
Hmmm? Guess I need to check to see just which bow roller I have up there.
I don't know... should I... hmmm... well, I really hate to admit this, but... I just dropped anchor for the first time last week. You know, the windlass and anchor setup sure looked pretty up there all this time. And I always thought that sooner or later I would have to take the plunge. Anyway, we headed out on a nice day armed with a couple of Subway sandwiches and a couple of growling stomaches, so it just couldn't be helped.
With the wind out of the north we approached the lee side of Saddlebag where two boats were already at anchor. I picked a spot and hit the switch. The windlass hummed along and the chain clanked against the deck, but the anchor didn't budge. So I left a few inches of slack and tried a little goose with the throttle to dislodge the anchor, but no go. Went out on deck to see what was holding up the show and the anchor shifted forward as soon as I touched it -- didn't use any force at all. Heck, a feather (or something :smileo ) falling from a passing seagull could have done the trick.
During this process I was reminded of all the posts that I had read earlier on this board. Seemed kind of reassuring in a weird kind of way...
Gotta go,
Corwin
I don't know... should I... hmmm... well, I really hate to admit this, but... I just dropped anchor for the first time last week. You know, the windlass and anchor setup sure looked pretty up there all this time. And I always thought that sooner or later I would have to take the plunge. Anyway, we headed out on a nice day armed with a couple of Subway sandwiches and a couple of growling stomaches, so it just couldn't be helped.
With the wind out of the north we approached the lee side of Saddlebag where two boats were already at anchor. I picked a spot and hit the switch. The windlass hummed along and the chain clanked against the deck, but the anchor didn't budge. So I left a few inches of slack and tried a little goose with the throttle to dislodge the anchor, but no go. Went out on deck to see what was holding up the show and the anchor shifted forward as soon as I touched it -- didn't use any force at all. Heck, a feather (or something :smileo ) falling from a passing seagull could have done the trick.
During this process I was reminded of all the posts that I had read earlier on this board. Seemed kind of reassuring in a weird kind of way...
Gotta go,
Corwin
Corwin-
If you're that close to having a self-launching rig already, you might just try adding a roller in the back end of the bow roller frame to keep the anchor tipped up a bit when fully retracted. Tipping the back end up will shift the center of gravity downward, which initiates the self-launch.
The pivoting Simpson Lawrencce roller does this shifting with it's hinged mechanical arrangement, and will move the center of gravity down about 5-6" (depends on the anchor used) to initiate the pulling action on the rode.
There are so many different types of rollers, rodes, and anchors out there that it becomes a little hard to generalize on the subject of how to cure a non-self-launching anchor, and usually a serious equipment modification, or outright replacement, is in order anyway, hence the recommendation to just go ahead an get the cure-all pivoting bow roller that will work with just about any set up.
In your case, you could maybe tape a short piece of PVC pipe in the place the additional roller would go, just to see if it shifts things around enough to work. Let us know how it comes out! Joe.
If you're that close to having a self-launching rig already, you might just try adding a roller in the back end of the bow roller frame to keep the anchor tipped up a bit when fully retracted. Tipping the back end up will shift the center of gravity downward, which initiates the self-launch.
The pivoting Simpson Lawrencce roller does this shifting with it's hinged mechanical arrangement, and will move the center of gravity down about 5-6" (depends on the anchor used) to initiate the pulling action on the rode.
There are so many different types of rollers, rodes, and anchors out there that it becomes a little hard to generalize on the subject of how to cure a non-self-launching anchor, and usually a serious equipment modification, or outright replacement, is in order anyway, hence the recommendation to just go ahead an get the cure-all pivoting bow roller that will work with just about any set up.
In your case, you could maybe tape a short piece of PVC pipe in the place the additional roller would go, just to see if it shifts things around enough to work. Let us know how it comes out! Joe.
Perhaps I am fortunate I don't have a lot of ocean close at hand... although I do have a large body of slat water and 900 miles of Pacific ocean beach front property... :lol:
So why join this thread?... well I have been reading all the stuff about anchors, rode lockers, all chain, chain and rope, etc., and I am weighing the advantages and disadvantages of it all.
At least twice I have read that my life may depend on my anchor... once by SeaWolf in this thread. I have all chain attached to a plow anchor on a Horizon 900 Freefall windless. The anchor is stationed on a Simpson pivoting anchor roller.
The problem is that if I am not very careful when weighing anchor the windless will snug up so tight that I must disassemble the windless with an allen wrench to loosen it up for re-use. Is there something I can do to prevent this without having to use so much care? I mean the first mate just wants to push the button and not be concerned. Can I put a stainless steel bolt through one of the chain links to stop the thing.
Another question... when lowering the anchor the whole 300 feet of chain want to go to the bottom even in 20 feet of water. Is this supposed to work this way? I push the button once and it don't stop until I push it again. Guess I gotta get used to that too! :crook
So why join this thread?... well I have been reading all the stuff about anchors, rode lockers, all chain, chain and rope, etc., and I am weighing the advantages and disadvantages of it all.
At least twice I have read that my life may depend on my anchor... once by SeaWolf in this thread. I have all chain attached to a plow anchor on a Horizon 900 Freefall windless. The anchor is stationed on a Simpson pivoting anchor roller.
The problem is that if I am not very careful when weighing anchor the windless will snug up so tight that I must disassemble the windless with an allen wrench to loosen it up for re-use. Is there something I can do to prevent this without having to use so much care? I mean the first mate just wants to push the button and not be concerned. Can I put a stainless steel bolt through one of the chain links to stop the thing.
Another question... when lowering the anchor the whole 300 feet of chain want to go to the bottom even in 20 feet of water. Is this supposed to work this way? I push the button once and it don't stop until I push it again. Guess I gotta get used to that too! :crook
Ken-
1. The admonition that your life may depend upon the anchor system's is a generalized one that covers a lot of ground, and certainly applies to those boating is situations where the use of an anchor after a motor failure can keep one out of the surf and off the rocks, and also applies to those anchoring overnight or during storm conditions in situations where dragging anchor could put you aground or out in shipping lanes or similar situations. For those of us on inland lakes, the hazards are less.
2. If the windlass is jamming tight upon retrieval, you may have a clutch problem, but the very best way to deal with this is to call or email the Tech Rep from Simpson Lawrence, as he is specifically familiar with the workings of the winch you have and deals with such problems daily. In general, when having problems with a piece of equipment, the manufacturer's Technical Representatives offer the best advice available beyond those simple fixes that we can deal with here. They're paid to do their job out of the purchase price of the equipment you bought, let them earn their pay.
3. The Free Fall feature works best with a rope chain combination rode, where the big weight is on the end with the anchor and the chain, and the rope stops pulling hard once the former is on the bottom. An all chain rode pulls down until it empties the entire locker. You'll have to use the power down mode instead, unless you want to change the rode to a combination set up.
I have 100 feet of chain up front followed by 150 feet of rope, and like it just fine. All chain is very workable in specific applications. I like it in inland lakes and shallow bays and rivers. It doesn't let the boat wander with the relative short scope that you can use, and has a definite quieting effect on how the boat rides at anchor because of it's weight. It is not suitable for large waves and swells, cannot be used in really deep water, and doesn't have much elasticity, although the weight of the horizontal part provides some deadening as it is lifted and dropped. I also have a second set up to be switched out when needed with the one above which is 20 feet of chain and 200 feet of rope.
Here's an analogy to the motorcycle world for thought:
There are as many different types of bottoms to anchor to as there are surfaces to ride a bike on, and as many different types of anchors as there are motorcycles. You wouldn't ride your Honda GoldWing on a motocross course, or take your dirt bike on a three month nation wide tour. Why expect that one anchor and rode can safely hook you into anything you can position your boat over and ride out any storm?
Worldwide cruisers carry a variety of anchors and rodes for different conditions. We have to consider ourselves lucky if we can find one set up that works reasonably well in most of the conditions we encounter with our C-Dorys.
Hook 'em up with whatever works for you! Joe.
1. The admonition that your life may depend upon the anchor system's is a generalized one that covers a lot of ground, and certainly applies to those boating is situations where the use of an anchor after a motor failure can keep one out of the surf and off the rocks, and also applies to those anchoring overnight or during storm conditions in situations where dragging anchor could put you aground or out in shipping lanes or similar situations. For those of us on inland lakes, the hazards are less.
2. If the windlass is jamming tight upon retrieval, you may have a clutch problem, but the very best way to deal with this is to call or email the Tech Rep from Simpson Lawrence, as he is specifically familiar with the workings of the winch you have and deals with such problems daily. In general, when having problems with a piece of equipment, the manufacturer's Technical Representatives offer the best advice available beyond those simple fixes that we can deal with here. They're paid to do their job out of the purchase price of the equipment you bought, let them earn their pay.
3. The Free Fall feature works best with a rope chain combination rode, where the big weight is on the end with the anchor and the chain, and the rope stops pulling hard once the former is on the bottom. An all chain rode pulls down until it empties the entire locker. You'll have to use the power down mode instead, unless you want to change the rode to a combination set up.
I have 100 feet of chain up front followed by 150 feet of rope, and like it just fine. All chain is very workable in specific applications. I like it in inland lakes and shallow bays and rivers. It doesn't let the boat wander with the relative short scope that you can use, and has a definite quieting effect on how the boat rides at anchor because of it's weight. It is not suitable for large waves and swells, cannot be used in really deep water, and doesn't have much elasticity, although the weight of the horizontal part provides some deadening as it is lifted and dropped. I also have a second set up to be switched out when needed with the one above which is 20 feet of chain and 200 feet of rope.
Here's an analogy to the motorcycle world for thought:
There are as many different types of bottoms to anchor to as there are surfaces to ride a bike on, and as many different types of anchors as there are motorcycles. You wouldn't ride your Honda GoldWing on a motocross course, or take your dirt bike on a three month nation wide tour. Why expect that one anchor and rode can safely hook you into anything you can position your boat over and ride out any storm?
Worldwide cruisers carry a variety of anchors and rodes for different conditions. We have to consider ourselves lucky if we can find one set up that works reasonably well in most of the conditions we encounter with our C-Dorys.
Hook 'em up with whatever works for you! Joe.