For future posts on the subject, would be great to have photos of your actual trailer. I had the same issue going to that link, in that it opened up a general page and wasn't all that clear which trailer you had. I too used Tom's measurements initially, but then tweaked them a bit to work for me. At one point I dropped the bunks down to the lowest holes, allowing to launch a little easier in shallower water, and giving the boat on the trailer just a tiny bit of a lower profile. That also allowed me to move the boat back just a hair on the trailer as the bunks also moved back while being moved down. However, soon after that, I realized that this also allowed the hull to touch the fenders if the boat was not centered well on the trailer, so back to the higher bunk holes. Where I stand now, even if I end up slightly off center, the hull still clears the fenders. I've also moved the aft side posts to just about touch the boat on both sides. This helps center it when I'm solo, however, it also requires me to stop when the boat hits the posts as I'm driving on, as they tend to twist it throwing the bow off center. (Remember, the boat's beam is wider near amidship than it is at the bow or stern. So at that point, it is actually squeezing between the posts.) Turning the motor in the appropriate direction will get the bow lined up before proceeding. Depending upon ramp incline and water level, sometimes I won't back in as far, requiring to power load, and not using the target bunks, (as they are several inches below the hull when boat is sitting hard on the main bunks), or other times using the target bunks to position the boat, and then winching it the rest of the way on as it slides on the target bunks until the bow is high enough thereby causing the hull to rest more squarely on the main bunks. One other caveat in setting up the trailer. And I learned this from the Hull Truth blog. Especially with the aluminum trailers, they tend to bend more at the front of the trailer. So part of setting everything up is getting the boat on the bunks where you want it, and then setting up jack stands on the frame just in front of the axles. Rolling up the tongue jack to take the weight off of it, will allow the aluminum framing to hang free without the weight of the boat baring down on it (as the jack stands are holding the weight of the boat in their location). At this time, adjust the bow stop/mount/winch to fit the boat appropriately. Once you remove the jack stands and lower the tongue jack again, the boat's weight will now be distributed on the main bunks and the front bow stop/roller, and not placing as much stress on the front tongue. Colby
