starcrafttom
Active member
Joe 3 could go either way.
SO WHAT DID YOU DO WITH OR ON YOUR C-DORY TODAY??
- Thread starter TyBoo
- Start date
Yellowstone
New member
Jim, Joe, and Dotnmarty - you have helped make my day. John
Pat Anderson
New member
Welcome to my life!!!!
starcrafttom":15x2xj0q said:
After we picked up a couple West Marine folding bikes we went next door to see if GI Joe's had any helmets on sale. They had one but they also had a Garelick Citation fold down seat in the right color for 20% off. Brought the seat home hoping it would fit as yesterday was the last day to make any returns there. Side note, it sure is sad to see GI Joe's go out of business.
I studied the forum last night to see what I could learn about the helm seat installation. There are some tales of woe and clearence problems with thicker seat bottoms not leaving enough room between the seat and steering wheel. Ho boy, what have I done? Angst.
I used aluminum foil to transfer the fastener hole pattern from the seat bottom to the cabinet it mounts on. Everything fit, there is legroom between the seat and steering wheel and the new seat is actually slightly narrower than the factory seat. The seat raises you up enough that some sort of foot rest will be in order.
I can't vouch for the fit of someone with heavy leg muscles but it works for me.
I studied the forum last night to see what I could learn about the helm seat installation. There are some tales of woe and clearence problems with thicker seat bottoms not leaving enough room between the seat and steering wheel. Ho boy, what have I done? Angst.
I used aluminum foil to transfer the fastener hole pattern from the seat bottom to the cabinet it mounts on. Everything fit, there is legroom between the seat and steering wheel and the new seat is actually slightly narrower than the factory seat. The seat raises you up enough that some sort of foot rest will be in order.
I can't vouch for the fit of someone with heavy leg muscles but it works for me.
Milehog":3k0zk1dc said:
Yes, it is sad, to add with GI Joes closing, Jerry's surplus (which includes the surplus store in Tacoma and Mt. Vernon that was owned by the same folks as Jerry's) also closed. Throw in Boater's World and before long there won't be any places of interest to shop anymore. I wandered into the Goodwill Store in Everett last week while I was "killing" a little time and it was packed with shoppers. I found and purchased a nearly new bicycle helmet for $4.00. (I wasn't looking for one, but this one is in better shape than the one I have).
Captains Cat
New member
Have finished much of the electronics installation on Capt's Cat. The autopilot is still awaiting but the radar and E-80 are up and running and the picture is awsome. Still have to finish the DMS300 install, had to patch a longer cable on it, the one I had had the wrong connector on it so I bought an extension cable with the right (Raymarine) end on it and spliced it with instructions from Airmar. It'll work fine except for the speed sensor which I don't care about anyway.
The thru hull (shoot thru) is mounted too for the Garmin, just forward of the stbd bilge pump. It works well, the one for the Raymarine system is mounted on the transom of the port sponson, as far away as I could get. We'll see if I get any interference....Airmar says I will but we'll see. I don't necessarily need to run them at the same time, will be good to have a backup. Now, with the Raymarine system and the Garmin 545, I've got redundancy for chart plotter, gps, and depth sounder.
Hot here in VA today, supposed to hit near 90!
Charlie
The thru hull (shoot thru) is mounted too for the Garmin, just forward of the stbd bilge pump. It works well, the one for the Raymarine system is mounted on the transom of the port sponson, as far away as I could get. We'll see if I get any interference....Airmar says I will but we'll see. I don't necessarily need to run them at the same time, will be good to have a backup. Now, with the Raymarine system and the Garmin 545, I've got redundancy for chart plotter, gps, and depth sounder.
Hot here in VA today, supposed to hit near 90!
Charlie
Finally finished my new brake installation, all 4 wheels. I bought Tie-Down Engineering's system (6 lug wheels), I really like the design. Replaced my 7 yr old Kodiak brakes and VERY rusted rotors/hubs. The new ones fit perfectly! Although I had to add about 12" of SS brake line to each wheel since the new calipers (aluminum, same as the Kodiaks) are clocked to mount at the 12:00 position for bleeding because of their dual pistons rather than Kodiak's single pistons (clocked at 3 o'clock). The extension lines caused me a lot of grief, reusing flare fittings isn't ideal, but with enough tightening, they finally sealed good. Never bled brakes on ANY trailer before, but figured out a system, went well after that.
Also installed a new "relief" solenoid valve to take the pressure off the brakes when backing up, rather than the standard (orig all rusted) type that just closes a valve on the line -- which has the side effect of retaining pressure in the line if you just stopped and the surge brakes engaged. A hassle. So am anxious to give this all a try and see if my trailering life improves!
I'll write up a better report on the installation (with pictures) later after I give it a trial run. Wanted to get out fishing today for that reason and of course some fresh fish, but winds/waves a bit high today due to a couple of lows going on.
Also installed a new "relief" solenoid valve to take the pressure off the brakes when backing up, rather than the standard (orig all rusted) type that just closes a valve on the line -- which has the side effect of retaining pressure in the line if you just stopped and the surge brakes engaged. A hassle. So am anxious to give this all a try and see if my trailering life improves!
I'll write up a better report on the installation (with pictures) later after I give it a trial run. Wanted to get out fishing today for that reason and of course some fresh fish, but winds/waves a bit high today due to a couple of lows going on.
DaveS":14ds2pcr said:
Went there the first Monday after they announced they were closing. I had a $50 gift card and wanted to burn it b4 they said they weren't gonna take 'em. Got there 10 min before they opened, and they were about 25 MEN standing there already; not one woman. :lol: Burned through the card on some small stuff for the boat/trailer. I even looked at crab traps, but they were only 20% off so I passed. One more big retail space empty. It's a bummer, 'cause they did have some stuff I couldn't easily find anywhere else and were right down the road in Lake Stevens, but IMO they were a bit on the pricey side but they merchandise was top quality.
One thing I did buy was a third brake/running light that mounts on the outboard. Pretty simple install. It's a strip of LED lights that slides on the cavitation plated and straps on with a simple nylon web strap. $20 and about a 1/2 hour. I'll post a pic once I take one.
like Localboy Mark, I also had a $50 gift card which I went to Joe's to use up a few weeks ago. When I finally got around to looking in the sack at the stuff I bought I found that I didn't get the discount on one $15 item. I went back and asked them to check all the stuff again and, since the %off had increased since I bought the stuff I got an additional discount of everything! Surprised at this unexpected little good fortune, I thanked the young girl who checked me out and who would soon be out of a job. She smiled and said "just don't bring this stuff back again". I do wish her well.
While checking out at GI Joe's I gave the checker my usual "just right" quip when she told me the total price. She said it sure was a nice change from the usual responses she had been getting lately. It seems that many customers thought they weren't as big a discount as they thought they should and were giving her grief.
So here is a woman that is going to be out of a job in a few days having to listen to people with poor math skills bitching at her 'cause they think THEY are getting a raw deal!
Apologies for the thread drift.
So here is a woman that is going to be out of a job in a few days having to listen to people with poor math skills bitching at her 'cause they think THEY are getting a raw deal!
Apologies for the thread drift.
I'm sitting on the boat watching Bball on TV and the fish pole out the back door. I even got a bite a little bit ago but jerked it out of his mouth. Who cares? Nice day, glass smooth water, anchored as close as 1 foot from my favorite mark, good game (Bos and Chi), t-shirt weather, and no FD dolphins in sight. Quiet, too.
marvin4239
New member
After being laid up for two months with various health problems ranging from heart attacks, lung problems and kidney stones yesterday my GF, oldest daughter and her boyfriend had a nice 80 mile round trip north of the ICW to Fernandina and then to Langs Marina in Georgia. We visited Cumberland Island and then had dinner at Langs Seafood in St Mary's Georgia. It was a beautiful day on the water and we saw lots of wildlife. What a great day and thanks to all the Brats for keeping me entertained through your posts on the site when I wasn't able to get out myself. After sitting up for two months my C-Dory and Suzuki preformed flawlessly and we cruised mostly at 7 MPH going North then around 20 MPH returning home. Tommorrow I'll make a trip to the inlet and attempt to catch some black drum it's that time around here.
starcrafttom
Active member
At the chance that I will be chided for whining again I spent the day working on the boat. I got both the hatches finished today and then started to think about installing the windlass. but before I cut a hole in the boat I wanted to make sure that the One I have running will work under a load. So I had to make a test bed.
What type of rope should I use? I have a twisted two strain now but it did not hold and feed thru the windlass very well. if I had any slack it would slip. if there something better to use?
What type of rope should I use? I have a twisted two strain now but it did not hold and feed thru the windlass very well. if I had any slack it would slip. if there something better to use?
Tom-
I'm not sure which windlass you have there, maybe a Lewmar V-700?
But anyway, most all of those suitably sized for a C-Dory 19, 22, 25, or TC are set up with the chain/rope gypsy set up for 1/2" nylon three strand line, or something very similar in texture and stiffness.
A line too small or too large will not fit in the "V" that also forms the chain link pockets. Either may slip.
Too soft a line will jam in the V, creating a snarl, and too stiff a line can simply slip, or jump out of the down turning entrance port to the locker below.
Lewmar sells, through various marine dealers, ready-made rope/chain rodes that are the proper stiffness and have splices that pass through the gypsy on the windlass pretty well.
I like to make my own out of New England Ropes (from West Marine) Premium 1/2" three strand Nylon Yacht Braid. I made my own type of splice to avoid the big "wad" that is typical of the most common (back-splicing) splicing technique, but have never really tested it under extreme conditions. It discussed HERE.
They (WM) also have their own ready-made, pre-spliced rope/chain rodes for windlasses. You can return it if it doesn't work, at least!
Most of these windlasses when sold in the US, also have their chain pockets sized for 1/4" GS 40 High Test Marine Grade (hot zinc dipped) chain. The chain must fit the pockets, period! A few have gypsies that will also or otherwise accept BBB, Proof Coil, or other grade chain. Special gypsies can also be ordered for special needs. Windlasses sold in Europe and other parts of the world my have different gypsies, often sized for metric rope and chain, although gypsies can sometimes be designed to fit both metric and English sized rode components.
For exact recommended rope/chain requirements, look at the instructions that came with the windlass, and/or call the technical rep listed at the manufacturer's/importers website or manual. I prefer to talk directly to them, myself, and while email also works, it is definitely slower for a lot of give and take type of questions.
You can also just put chain in the windlass for the test, of course. Just be sure you've laid it out to cleanly feed into the windlass and that the tail of the incoming chain has somewhere to go!
Have fun with your project! Nice talking with you!
Joe. :teeth :thup
I'm not sure which windlass you have there, maybe a Lewmar V-700?
But anyway, most all of those suitably sized for a C-Dory 19, 22, 25, or TC are set up with the chain/rope gypsy set up for 1/2" nylon three strand line, or something very similar in texture and stiffness.
A line too small or too large will not fit in the "V" that also forms the chain link pockets. Either may slip.
Too soft a line will jam in the V, creating a snarl, and too stiff a line can simply slip, or jump out of the down turning entrance port to the locker below.
Lewmar sells, through various marine dealers, ready-made rope/chain rodes that are the proper stiffness and have splices that pass through the gypsy on the windlass pretty well.
I like to make my own out of New England Ropes (from West Marine) Premium 1/2" three strand Nylon Yacht Braid. I made my own type of splice to avoid the big "wad" that is typical of the most common (back-splicing) splicing technique, but have never really tested it under extreme conditions. It discussed HERE.
They (WM) also have their own ready-made, pre-spliced rope/chain rodes for windlasses. You can return it if it doesn't work, at least!
Most of these windlasses when sold in the US, also have their chain pockets sized for 1/4" GS 40 High Test Marine Grade (hot zinc dipped) chain. The chain must fit the pockets, period! A few have gypsies that will also or otherwise accept BBB, Proof Coil, or other grade chain. Special gypsies can also be ordered for special needs. Windlasses sold in Europe and other parts of the world my have different gypsies, often sized for metric rope and chain, although gypsies can sometimes be designed to fit both metric and English sized rode components.
For exact recommended rope/chain requirements, look at the instructions that came with the windlass, and/or call the technical rep listed at the manufacturer's/importers website or manual. I prefer to talk directly to them, myself, and while email also works, it is definitely slower for a lot of give and take type of questions.
You can also just put chain in the windlass for the test, of course. Just be sure you've laid it out to cleanly feed into the windlass and that the tail of the incoming chain has somewhere to go!
Have fun with your project! Nice talking with you!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Captains Cat
New member
Joe, I think it's my old 600 or the other 600 I sent to him from another Brat. He's trying to make one good one out of those two...
Charlie
Charlie