Solar panels mounting

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KevinMc

New member
Has anyone mounted solar panels on their cabin top, I am thinking about two rigid panels attached to the s/s,fore/aft hand rail. Seems better than drilling holes in the roof,any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
My first suggestion would be leave the hand rails as hand rails. Anything that you do to obstruct their use is a bad idea.

On my CD 16, I had room for a single flexible panel. I surface mounted it with YKK "SNAD snaps." Male SNADs on the deck and female snaps attached to the back side of the flexible panel at the grommet holes. A couple of self-stick plastic dots on the back side keeps the flexible panel off of the deck and allows air circulation. Heat from having the panel against the deck reduces output. Tested to +70 mph.

Photos in my album under "Electrical Stuff-Solar Panel."

SNADS: https://www.sailrite.com/YKK-SNAD-White ... -UQAvD_BwE

Plastic dots: https://www.acehardware.com/departments ... lsrc=aw.ds
 
You can keep the usefulness of your railings and still mount solar panels. I used 7/8 inch motorcycle handlebar risers to clamp on the railings. Then attached aluminum L brackets across each pair of risers. Then bolt Solar panel to the L brackets.

You can always change panels easily. If you drill mount thru top and the panel breaks you may not find the same size panel and have to drill new holes.

I have a 250 watt panel on my 25 and it’s been great. Still have room for radar and a place to tie extra gear on top.
 
I took my a different route. 110w semi flexible panel held to the top with 6 simple nylon web straps that go around the grab handles (with snaps) Takes 2 minutes to remove the panel and store it standing in the head when not needed.
 
localboy":h52ptihp said:
I took my a different route. 110w semi flexible panel held to the top with 6 simple nylon web straps that go around the grab handles (with snaps) Takes 2 minutes to remove the panel and store it standing in the head when not needed.
Click to expand...

Were the flexible panels held against the roof, or was there air circulation under the panels?
 
localboy":5e9v2urg said:
I used a section of clear green house panel under the solar panel. About a 1/4” of space for air circulation.
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These work too...stick directly on bottom of panel...

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Square-Adh ... rce=1&th=1

Only problem is they make them effectively thicker, and I used to just put the flexible panels under the mattress when not using them. Maybe the panel is the way to go, but then you need to store it as well. Either seems good for more permanent installations.
 
As I read this post, I am getting the hint that there is a need for air space under a solar panel for a cooling factor. We are using a Renogy 100w flexible panel and it has been trouble free for six years. The controller shows power at about 18 to 19 volts in full sun. We simply lay it on the roof and it works well without spacers placed under the panel. Is this because a C-Dory roof is not exactly flat that it performs well for us? I love this panel because when not in use, it stores easily on the port side under the settee. Any thoughts for the need of spacers in our current use would be appreciated.
 
If you want the cheapest, fastest, easiest 100w panel solution that extends your anchoring out nights from one to two without starting the engines:

Renogy 100w semi-flexible panel ($149 with free Home Depot shipping before 10% military discount and 5 year Renogy warranty)

Victron MPPT controller

Blue Seas 15A breaker

20ft Ancor 10g tinned DC cable

½ sheet Home Depot “plastic cardboard” corrugated PVC rec’d by Renogy for insulation

1 tube Gorilla Structural Adhesive (not Renogy’s rec’d)

Clean and alcohol wipe roof area

Slap adhesive on the roof and place plastic cardboard

Slap adhesive on the cardboard and place Renogy panel on it over curved section, aft to the end of roof to minimize radar and Coleman AC shadowing

Replace solid copper Renogy wiring cables with Ancor tinned stranded 10g cable, which bends MUCH easier and is Code approved for use on boats

Install Controller and Breaker (a 100w panel will generate enough DC power to arc when disconnecting

Cover panel with a towel before installing the breaker to prevent arcing

If no other DC ‘eaters’ are on, this panel will pretty much prevent much DC discharge if a std mini fridge is on and the panel is not in the shade on your route while trailering. Monitor your DC monitor to keep up with that

Hope this is helpful. PM me with any questions. We are on an AICW Loop Segment so Verizon and wifi may be limited.

John
 
DayBreak":1r707o05 said:
As I read this post, I am getting the hint that there is a need for air space under a solar panel for a cooling factor. We are using a Renogy 100w flexible panel and it has been trouble free for six years. The controller shows power at about 18 to 19 volts in full sun. We simply lay it on the roof and it works well without spacers placed under the panel. Is this because a C-Dory roof is not exactly flat that it performs well for us? I love this panel because when not in use, it stores easily on the port side under the settee. Any thoughts for the need of spacers in our current use would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

in the PNW, you don't necessarily need spacers, but they can improve the performance of your panels. I have Renogy 175's on my boat and campers (I have a 4 wheel and an Alaskan). There is one potential problem (damage from heat) and another definite problem. When any electrical system heats up, electrical resistance increases, and by ohms law, current decreases. Given a certain amount of electrical potential, voltage from the sun's energy, current will be reduced as the panels heat up. If you monitor production, you'll find that they produce more power when cool. People with panels often see that electrical production is higher in the morning before things heat up. Allowing air flow helps keep the panels a bit cooler and more efficient, particularly when it is very hot with direct sun. My campers have aluminum roofs which conduct some heat away, the C-Dory's roof is fiberglass, which is an excellent insulator, and doesn't conduct heat away very well. I've tested equivalent systems with and without spacers on an asphalt roof, and get better production with the spacers. Disclaimer....results will vary!!!
 
A couple of comments: I agree with rohhwa. An air space will increase output by small amounts, but also the panels will last longer.

We determined at Lake Powell (high ambient temperatures, 3700 feet elevation and most days intense sunshine) that about 200 watt solar panels are necessary to support each chest type refrigerator or freezer. Of course the freezer required more power. We also added insulation about the sides and top of our refrigerator and freezers.

In the PNW the temperatures are considerably lower, and there is less sunshine. I am not certain where the trade off is, but my impression is that in most climates, around 200 watt solar panels are needed.
 
thataway":147b988t said:
A couple of comments: I agree with rohhwa. An air space will increase output by small amounts, but also the panels will last longer.

We determined at Lake Powell (high ambient temperatures, 3700 feet elevation and most days intense sunshine) that about 200 watt solar panels are necessary to support each chest type refrigerator or freezer. Of course the freezer required more power. We also added insulation about the sides and top of our refrigerator and freezers.

In the PNW the temperatures are considerably lower, and there is less sunshine. I am not certain where the trade off is, but my impression is that in most climates, around 200 watt solar panels are needed.
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Wow, I will consider an agreement from Bob to be a sign that I am doing something right. My 3 flexible Renogy 175 watt panels are now 4 years old, and starting to show their age. I haven't tested, but productivity is clearly dropping off on the one mounted to the 4 Wheel camper, which doesn't have spacers, is glued down and has been in a lot of very hot environments. My daughter lives in Mesa, AZ, and it is often parked there for extensive periods. That system also gets driven often more than 80 MPH and I think they probably flex a bit from venturi forces. The freezer sometimes warms from 0F which it is set at, and didn't used to do that. I haven't permanently mounted the others, and use bungies and spacers on the C-dory, which hardly ever goes more than 30 MPH, and I take it off when I park it on the hard. They still seem good.

Has anyone had any experience with the newer technology of CIGS (copper indium gallium selenide) flexible panels? There are claims that they are more efficient, and particularly that they continue to produce well in heated environments and over very long periods of time. I am not one to accept industry claims at face value, and CIGS are more than twice as expensive as the silicon-based equivalent per watt. I'm not quite ready to bite the bullet for new panels for my 4-wheel camper, but if I hear they are game changers, I might. I usually go with advice from Will Prowse. In 2018, he said flexible panels were crap and to avoid then at all costs. Later, he seemed enamored with the newer CIGS flexible technology in 2021, but I haven't seen any long-term reviews. Anyone?
 
Thanks,everyone for the helpful comments,I was not aware that the panels would benefit from the air flow, I was only thinking of the curve in the roof and now I am convinced that a two tier s/s frame will be used,the lower for the panels and an upper for boards or kayaks (maybe).I assumed the roof hand rail would be the same dia as the forepeak rail tubing.Not so in my case,the rail is 1" dia and the fore/aft Cabin top handrail is 7/8".So,back to the supplier for revised fittings.My Bad!
Please keep the great ideas coming.
KevinMc.
 
Avidmagnum12 said:
You can keep the usefulness of your railings and still mount solar panels. I used 7/8 inch motorcycle handlebar risers to clamp on the railings. Then attached aluminum L brackets across each pair of risers. Then bolt Solar panel to the L brackets.

You can always change panels easily. If you drill mount thru top and the panel breaks you may not find the same size panel and have to drill new holes.

I have a 250 watt panel on my 25 and it’s been great. Still have room for radar and a place to tie extra gear on top.
Click to expand...
Older thread but do you have a link or pictures of the risers you used?
 
Here is what I used and am still using 2 years later. The bolts that came with the risers were a little long so I made spacers. The risers are not cheap but I tow the boat long distances at highway speeds with no worries. I like the fact that I can move them easily if I decide to obtain different sized panels.
 

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We have an air conditioner. This is what I did. It is a 100w panel. I mounted it to the bolts that hold down the AC cover. I made the Z clips from aluminum angle and bolts. I was able to get a 1” gap for air flow. Working great.
 

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Avidmagnum12 said:
Here is what I used and am still using 2 years later. The bolts that came with the risers were a little long so I made spacers. The risers are not cheap but I tow the boat long distances at highway speeds with no worries. I like the fact that I can move them easily if I decide to obtain different sized panels.
Click to expand...
Awesome!
Thanks for replying!!
 
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