Solution for spring line on TC 255 and C D 25

T

thataway

Active member
The beauty of the CD 22, is that you can reach out of the window and grab a cleat or bull rail and secure it to the foreward spring line cleat just foreward of the window. Unfortunately this does not work well in the 255 or 25, because the cleat is too far foreward.

I have resolved this issue by putting a folding D Ring on each side right under the window. I rigged a line with an eye splce in one end, a caribbiner in the middle, which can be secured at any point with a slip know and a stopper knot on the other end. This line can be secured to the D Ring (all 4000 lb working load) and then passed thru a bull rail or over a cleat, securing the boat until you can use the larger spring line cleat and proper breast lines.

I hope that this photo works, if not, it is well illustrated in the "Thataway" Folder at the end:

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Bob,

Thanks for all your posts; they are very informative!

On this particular post, I have been working to make sure I am figuring it out. I'm thinking that the carabiner has an eye in it through which the temporary "spring line" passes in order to prevent a slip knot from being pulled through. How strongly attached is the eye to the carabiner, I wonder.

Does the carabiner have an eye?
 
Yes, there is a 3/8" formed eye with flanges in the caribiner. It is tac welded in place. The force is in compression, so I think that it will be at least 1000 lbs. However if you were to put any serious load on it, I would suggest a bowline be tied. I have been using this eye set up on an 18 footer as a perment spring line (line tied in place) for two years and it works very well. But I am using the larger folding "D" Ring. It has withstood hurricane force winds with no sign of strain, but in protected water.

I did not mean this setup for perment mooring, just as a quick tie up to hold the boat alongside as you get the fore and aft, plus spring lines secured. Also I will most likely put a SS rub strip on the outside of the railing (which probably should be outside of each of the foreward cleats.

The slip knot allows quick and easy adjustment. A slip knot (slip the opposite way) will take a substantial load. It is basically acting as a figure of 8 stopper knot.

Regards,
 
West Marine has a snap hook that has a 1/2" eye cast in and has a 3300lb breaking strength. WM part #116095. $39.49.

This looks like a great idea for an easy to get at spring line. This place is amazing. Got a problem? Get an answer immediately!

Jim
 
Jim,
I actually have one of those model # 116095 hooks on my safety harness. I choose the one I did because it was tight on the 3/8" rope (easy to handle, compact--the hook is too larger for the slip knot to act as a stopper, but definately would be better if one were to use this as a more perment spring line.) and the carbiner seemed less likely to foul in the application I was using it in. I had also considered a spinaker snap shackle--which may be also a good solution. The problem is that there can be side loading on these shackles--the hook above will handle this better than a spinaker snap shakle.

I'll have to try the hook and see if it works any better.

Thanks.
 
Bob,

I overlooked the part about 3/8" line. I can see how the carabiner would be a better fit in that case.

The general concept is great, though. Especially when single-handing. Thanks for sharing.

Jim
 
The reason I use 3/8 " line, is because it is easy to keep right by the helm and is supple and compact for immediate use when docking. We generally use heavier lines for the dock lines. The cleat is foreward, but is awkard to get to thru the window, especially when steering the boat in close quarters. We use the spring line cleat and heavier line, once docked for for longer term docking.

I think that one could come up with several variations of this scheme.
 
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