Something Electrical Messed Up Again...

Pat, Tom, et all;

I just received a call from Sea Sport with the OK to place my copy of the
CD25 Owner's Manual on my album. It is NOT an official C-Dory copy of
the manual, but my copy that I'm allowed to share. As I am typing this,
the PDF file is on its way. This I have done under my Sea Angel
Documentation folder.

I hope this will help those of you who do not have this 84 page document.
It is very representative of most of the CD25s out there. The options we
have all encounterted will modify the manuals content needs, but it is
easily customized after you print it and add your own notes.

May you, and yours, all have a blessed, healthy and happy new year.
Art
 
Art-

Very nice!

Thanks!

Maybe Bill or Mike could make a link from the Documents Forum to your Documentation Sub-Album so the Manual would be easier to find without searching through this not obviously related thread?

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
My apologies for not knowing how to get the PDF into the document section of the 'library'. I have an e-mail to the "Big-Nerd",, Bill to help with this and I hope to send him an attachment of it. Meantime, anyone wanting a copy, please PM me at ka1rx@verizon.net and I will forward it to you.

If you have any other doc needs that I may have, you are all welcome to my notes.

Art
 
I was able to get the first two parts of the CD25 owners manual into the documentation section before I reached my "maximum Upload Quota Limit of 5 MB". I'll put the third section in there if the gods let me...

It takes a full version of Acrobat (not just the reader) to split the .pdf file.

charlie
 
Yesterday I was able to test the 10 amp Guest charger, and one side is dead. 120 volts going to her, 12.25 volts going out one side, 0.3 volts going out the other side.

To get to this sucker, you have to do a lot more than just take off the seat and remove the drawer. There is a solid piece of Decraguard under the drawer on top of the water heater. So I took that piece out. Then there is way too little clearance between the water heater and the Guest to easily remove it (I suppose a coordinated contortionist could do, but I could see I was not going to be able to. I wanted the water heater out anyway, we don't use it, and can use the storage space, so now it is OUT! Need to replace the FloJet anyway, so I needed lots of elbow room in there...the last piece I will remove before I start putting things back together will be the face piece holding the door. It was just too hard bending down over it, I want straight on easy access for replacing both the water pump and the charger.

 
Oh my goodness, Pat; :roll:
we have the same year CD25, 2005, and there is a structural difference
in the craziest areas. Go figure... Thankfully it is minor.

All this time and I thought the runs were not that dynamically different. I
just learned that change can be a suttle surprise, as well as a major in
this CD World.

Art
 
So the saga continues.

I bought a Guest 16202 10/10, and basically just wanted to replace the Guest 2610A 5/5 with the 16202 10/10. I have been working on this virtually all day and am just baffled.

I disconnected the wires from the Guest 2610A 5/5 and removed it. So there are three AC wires (black, white and green) in Romex and three DC wires (red with blue stripe, red with green stripe and black) remaining. The red with blue stripe runs directly to the house battery, the red with green stripe runs directly to the starting battery, and the black runs to one of the negative battery posts for the common ground.

I got the AC wires that used to go to the Guest 2610A 5/5 from the panel now wired to a standard AC outlet box with a cover next to the galvanic isolator. The outlet box works great, have had a light and my drill plugged into it, all good. The reason I did that is because the Guest 16202 does not have a terminal block like the 2610A 5/5, instead it has a standard cord with a plug. It likewise does not have a terminal block for the 12 volt outputs either, but two cords that each have a red and a black wire terminating in ring terminals, I think the cords are about 6' long.

I tested it when I brought it home, just connecting the ring terminals from each cord directly to the batteries and plugging the unit in to a 3-wire extension cord. Because the cords are so short, the charger was on the cockpit near the motor well.

The first thing you do is connect the 12 volt output wires to the batteries before you plug in the AC. There are battery type selection and charge status lights on each side, one for each output circuit. It first lights blue, meaning unknown battery type, and you can push a button to select flooded cell (red indicator), gel cell (green indicator) or safe mode (blue indicator). The status indicator light has three states as well, red (bulk charge), blue (absorption charge) and green (float charge). Everything worked fine for my test. The starting battery charged to a full charge state, and the house battery did not, my multimeter showed that it was toasted, only putting out 5 volts - not surprising since it was run down to a fully discharged state when the house circuit on the 2610A failed. I will get a new house battery this week, but in the meantime, I stuck a good little Optima Blue Top in the house side.

So now I mount the 16202 in the same spot vacated by the 2610A more or less. I clipped off the ring terminals, and connected with butt connectors to the wires running back to the batteries. The blue lights should have come on, but nothing. I tested the voltage on the wires coming forward from the batteries, and I had 12 volts.

I tested the charger again by bringing another battery into the cabin and connecting each side to it in turn. The blue light came on for each side. The voltage on that battery was lower than the voltage on the wires coming forward from the batteries in back, but when I connect those wires to the charger, it just does not recognize that they are there.

I did not try plugging the charger in, since the charger was not recognizing that there were even batteries attached. It is like it is limited to the length of the pre-wired cords.

So, anybody have a clue what is happening here or what I can try next?


 
I don't know your system but with most other chargers I've used the monitoring system usually works off the AC side, so what I would try is plugging it in to the same extention cord that worked with the short leads.
 
"So now I mount the 16202 in the same spot vacated by the 2610A more or less. I clipped off the ring terminals, and connected with butt connectors to the wires running back to the batteries. The blue lights should have come on, but nothing. I tested the voltage on the wires coming forward from the batteries, and I had 12 volts.

I tested the charger again by bringing another battery into the cabin and connecting each side to it in turn. The blue light came on for each side. The voltage on that battery was lower than the voltage on the wires coming forward from the batteries in back, but when I connect those wires to the charger, it just does not recognize that they are there.

I did not try plugging the charger in, since the charger was not recognizing that there were even batteries attached. It is like it is limited to the length of the pre-wired cords."

I'm not sure what you mean above, but if you wired the charger output to the batteries, AND did NOT plug the charger into the 110 VAC, it seems nothing would happen, as Chris said above. That's normal operation for a number of reasons.

If you wired everything in, plugged the AC in and nothing happened, check the DC fuses that are next to each battery. C-Dory put fuses in the charge line, per Guest requirements. If you actually charged the batteries in your test, you may have blown those fuses. In any case, replace them with 15 amp fuses, since you now have a higher current charger.

BTW, on Journey On, that charger was the easiest thing to get out. Wait till you try the water pump.

Boris
 
You are just going to have to take my word for it folks that the Guest 16202 "intelligent charger" READS the battery and an indicator lights up BEFORE it is plugged into line voltage. It does no charging, but it senses the battery and you can switch select battery type.

The #10 wires coming forward from the batteries to where the charger is located under the aft dinnette seat are hooked up and fused. My multimeter shows voltage on the wires.

When I hook the Guest 16202 short (6") DC cables directly to the starting and house batteries, it reads them (battery type indicators light), and then charges them when I plug it in to the line voltage. If I had AC back near the batteries, I guess I could mount the charger back there somewhere, don't know where, but if I could, it would work. But I would prefer to keep the charger in the original location.

When I hook the Guest 16202 to the #10 wires coming forward from the batteries, it doesn't read them (battery type indicators don't light). I will try plugging it in, but what will no doubt happen is that the status light will give the "no battery present" error (I am deducing this, but since it is not reading that a battery is there, it should take the 'battery not present" action).

This describes the problem anyway. Now to find a solution... :(

journey on":j6t8e759 said:
I'm not sure what you mean above, but if you wired the charger output to the batteries, AND did NOT plug the charger into the 110 VAC, it seems nothing would happen, as Chris said above. That's normal operation for a number of reasons.

If you wired everything in, plugged the AC in and nothing happened, check the DC fuses that are next to each battery. C-Dory put fuses in the charge line, per Guest requirements. If you actually charged the batteries in your test, you may have blown those fuses. In any case, replace them with 15 amp fuses, since you now have a higher current charger.

BTW, on Journey On, that charger was the easiest thing to get out. Wait till you try the water pump.
Click to expand...
journey on":j6t8e759 said:
Boris
Click to expand...
 
So you are saying that your DC tester shows DC power when you hook the tester to the existing wires coming from the batteries that used to attach to the old charger? But when you hook them to the new charger DC wires and have 110 ac to the charger the charger is not responding electrically an/or acknowledging that there are batteries on-line? But if you move the charger back to where the batteries are and attach the DC wires from the charger directly to the appropriate battery terminals and plug the charger in to 110 ac it works?

Check the ground wire(s). Double check the in line fuses in the existing wiring from the battery (if you have power at the forward ends I would assume the fuses to be ok). Check the DC power at the battery terminal against the same value at the forward end of the wiring and see if you are showing the same DC voltage.
 
:idea
I agree with Dave about rechecking the grounds. You may want to tie the two returns(black) leads together to assure you are have enough capacity for the load distribution in case you have one bad black return cable. I think these chargers may be able to also charge 24 VDC banks, so thus the configuration thoughts.

Remember the old car starter problems when the battery ground cable was corroded at the post and how misleading your meter readings were unless you did it under load?

Art
 
After you connect the DC cables of the charger to the batteries, the battery chemistry
selection LED will illuminate (Safe Mode). At this point, you can toggle thru the different
battery chemistry selections by pressing the pushbutton on the membrane panel for each
specific output. Once AC is plugged in, this setting will be set by the micro into RAM and
it will remember this setting until you interrupt both the battery power and AC power to
the charger.
The battery chemistry selection LED will turn OFF 10 minutes after the batteries are first
connected; this is called “sleep mode”. To recover from “sleep mode” press the battery
chemistry selection button, this will turn ON the battery chemistry selection LED as long
as AC power has not yet been applied.
The battery chemistry select LED will turn ON once AC has been applied to the charger
and turn OFF 10 minutes after AC has been disconnected.



The above is from the manual.

Is it possible that:

1). The RAM was not recycled by removing both the AC and DC power, and the types are in memory?

2)Maybe the blue light was on for 10 mins. And went into sleep mode? "Try pressing membrane"?

These don’t seem likely, but I agree, this is a very strange one and I think I’d probably be calling Guest.

Chris
 
Guest was acquired by Marinco some time after this unit was manufactured. I have emailed through the Marinco website, and will call them. It will be a while now before I can get back to trying to dope this out, with work and then the SBS/cBGT this weekend...I will be double checking al the ground connections for sure. Thanks.
 
I would double check the ground. Tie both of the grounds from the batteries together at the battery charger position. Also check continuity of the wires to the battery. Do both batteries read 12.6 volts with your digital volt meter, when you check them at the position where you will put the battery charger?

The 2026A is the 20 amp charger which does both 12 and 24 volt batteries (I have one of these on my Caracal, which has a 24 volt trolling motor).
 
From the Marinco site, it appears the model that fits my bill would be the 2022A. but it is about twice what I paid for the 16202. Maybe there is a reason!
thataway":1dic6m6q said:
The 2026A is the 20 amp charger which does both 12 and 24 volt batteries (I have one of these on my Caracal, which has a 24 volt trolling motor).
Click to expand...
 
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