Southeast Alaska 2012 with Jay, Jo-Lee & the Hunkydory

Hi Jay-

Wow, what an adventure you two are having!

I spent a week in Red Bluff bay on a fish tender back in the 80's and never saw a bear. The pink salmon were running and it was early September. The weather was beautiful and I can truthfully say it was one of the most beautiful places I have ever had the privlige to visit.

If I ever get a chance to do it again I hope its when the bears are there.

You are one lucky guy!

Have a continued safe trip!
 
Temperatures in the low 50's & raining more on than off since we arrived in Petersburg yesterday.  As AJF said its sure been a wet spring.  I doubt there's  been more than six rain free days in the past two months.  Not all bad being it creates another different set of experiences to remember.   Really enjoyed some of those wet days like the  misty foggy day in Red Bluff Bay.  It created the appearance of stepping back into prehistoric time, which is something I've fantasized about many times.

Anchor set up is complete now.  Have 420 feet of line & 30 of chain with a 22 pound claw anchor, which is what many of the commercial fishing boats & the far majority of 40 feet & smaller cruise boats up here use.  No doubt like Bob says & tested the Manson Supreme is somewhat better, but this is the 2nd 22 pound Bruce style claw that I've lost & am very glad they weren't the very expensive M Supremes.  The 22 pound claw was only $81 to replace.

Will be posting some more photos from the library here today.

Steve Grover, sure wished I knew you were coming into Port Alexander on the June 10th.  We left the 8th, but We would have stayed had we known.

hootlakoota, I've been in Red Bluff Bay when it was hot & didn't see a bear. Also only small ones when the fish were running. Seems for bear viewing best time is when the sedge grass becomes big enough for them to eat in the spring.

Jay
 
Hi Jay,

I really enjoyed the bear and bird photos which are a great way to end the evening. Thanks for taking them and posting them.

I still am wondering about anchoring so close to shore when it is definitely bear country...it seems counterintuitive...? Also I am confused why you anchor in the shallows when you know the tide will leave you high and dry. I am curious why you decide to do that? It sounds like the bears are having more and more tourist boats visiting, so I thought they would be less likely to run away from humans.

I must be missing something about you and the bears sharing territory in such close quarters :!: Would you explain how you decide to anchor so close?

Thanks,

Anne
 
Great photos Jay! I've been in Alaska for a few days now, no bears yet, though the weather and scenery have been great. In Ketchikan tonight to drop a friend off for his flight home tomorrow, then probably Ketchikan again tomorrow since it's supposed to be blowing 30 knots on Clarence Strait. Then up to Petersburg, probably arriving the 19th, and heading out for Endicott Arm, Ford's Terror, and Tracy Arm the 20th if the weather cooperates. Perhaps I'll see you somewhere in that neck of the woods.
 
Anne,

Was glad to hear you enjoyed the last set of photos of the birds & bears.  For me it was a wonderful experience with a lot of experimentation on how to stealthily maneuver the Mokai to get them.  With the last photo it took a very long time slow paddling the Mokai keeping the large down tree between me & the bear with cubs to get as close as I did.  The birds  were sleeping on the log & never awakened during the process.  

Concerning our choice of anchorages in bear country.  Our number one reason for being here is animal viewing of all types with bears leading the list, so when selecting an anchorage the highest priority is the view of scenery & animals with closer the better, while weather, bottom type, tides & all other hazards must be taken into consideration too.  The bears are very low on this hazards list.   Almost nil chance of a bear trying to climb on the boat in deep water no matter how close to shore & easy in my opinion to deal with if one does try.  Of course letting the boat deliberately ground it's self with the tide is presenting a somewhat higher risk of being boarded, but to me the boat on the ground is no different than a cabin in the woods in bear country.  A bear can eventually gain entry to either if it desires,  but don't think this would happen on the boat & us stay asleep with many ways to discourage it as a threat.  I'm much more concerned about bears on shore walking about where surprising one is a distinct possibility.  Lions, tigers & bears, Oh My!!  Yes, that  & spiders & snakes are all high on us humans fear list,  where in reality in my opinion it just isn't justified to the degree many would make it.  Now the outside waters here close to shore & exploring narrow tidal channels where the charts & gps don't agree with the eyes, that does hold some fear for me, but still just part of the adventure.

Jay
 
Jay, Thanks for all the great photos. Great shots, great subjects, and great location. Just stay safe. Your posts are inspiring. Some day I want to be able to get through some of that area, and spend a summer there. I like the 7 knots. That 200 mile range is pretty impressive. Thanks for sharing.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Sam, thanks for the thumbs up on the bear ect photos.  Sounds  like your making good progress.  We'er  not getting the high winds here yet in Petersburg, but the rain has sure been falling & looks like much more in the next three days.  We are heading out to Gambier Bay, Admiralty Island tomorrow then Pleasant Bay with Fords Terror & Tracy Arm about the same time as you.  Hopefully we will meet there.  

Weather forecast is for much improvement in this area in about four days.  Should be good for you from here to & in the Holkum Bay area in the time frame you mentioned.

Jay
 
hardee":1863n229 said:
Jay, Thanks for all the great photos. Great shots, great subjects, and great location. Just stay safe. Your posts are inspiring. Some day I want to be able to get through some of that area, and spend a summer there. I like the 7 knots. That 200 mile range is pretty impressive. Thanks for sharing.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Click to expand...

Thanks much Harvey. Sure hope you do get a summer up here. Even with this wet & cold spring it's been wouderous for us.

That high speed run from Red Bluff Bay to here for anchor sure made a change in range & milage. On our 291 miles before the run averaged 7.5 mpg & then used 30 gal to go the only 90 miles to here.

Jay
 
Jay

In a previous post you mentioned the unlikely-hood of a bear boarding the boat in deep water. I use to feel the same way until after seeing in two occurrences bears boarding boats in deep water. One was in Baronof warm springs, the seining fleet was in after a fishing opening and there were 2 seiners rafted together and anchored out in the bay. I watched a bear pull itself out of the water and over the rear transom onto one of the boats and that was a good 4 ft. lift out of the water. It was a wooden hulled boat so I'm assuming it was able to get enough claw hold in the wood to do this feat. The crews were up at the warm springs at the time and were a little shocked when they returned to see the signs of a bear on-board. The other time was in a bay on Admiralty Is. were a bear used the swim deck on a 24ft. Hewes Craft to get on board. The owners had been fishing and then rowed to shore to walk their dog when this happened. They did mention that maybe they hadn't done that good of a wash down of the rear deck after cleaning the fish and that was what attracted the bear. But what surprised me was how effortless it was for the bear to pull itself out of the water onto the swim deck, mind you it sure submerged the stern of the boat into the water as it pulled itself in. So even though I still feel this is a rare occurrence, I do know that just being anchored away from shore in deep water doesn't always mean a determined bear might not try to get aboard.
 
AJF, I would loved to have witness's  either of those occasions.  I never thought they couldn't come aboard the C-Dory just unlikely & something that could be handled if they tried.  Being in deep water could be more of a problem than when grounded.  The weight of a large bear would sure make the boat dance.  Think the even bigger problem could be a stellar sea lion wanting to board.  Seeing how easy they climb on a buoy,  boarding if they desired would be easy for them & a much bigger problem for the safety of the boat.

The point I was trying to make to Anne was how unlikely a boarding of this boat would be & why it wasn't a bigger concern to me when put in proportion with the other trip hazards.   Coming from a background of spending much time in the rugged wilderness  rock mountains alone, a good deal of which was grizzly bear country, sometimes on horseback & seldom on anything but a game trial my appraisals of acceptable risk might differ from others. Even there the danger from bears was much much lower than climbing cliffs or riding a animal with a fearful mind of its own in very precarious country.

Jay
 
Jay, i have not posted much about your travels but I have to say that I have been folllowing it closely. Love that bear and duck pictures. Just wonderfull stuff. post more and be careful of all the hazards out there. And how about some more pictures of your guys having fun.

how is the bigger motor in the moki treating you?
 
Hi Jay-

I know what you mean about worrying about a Stellar Sea Lion coming aboard. It can happen.

Orca whale researchers warn that if a sea lion is being pursued by a transient orca whale it will use your boat as a safe haven.

I know an old Bering Sea skipper that had a Stellar Sea lion jump on his boat (125ft power scow) to get away from a transient orca and it spent most of the day on the boat. Of course it might sink your boat if one had the notion to come aboard without your permission.

I am convinced that you are being safe while observing bears but I must admit that Im not as brave as you when I am near bears.

Keep safe!
 
We'er still at Petersburg.  Checked the motors oil levels this morning & found the starboard motor was making oil, so a long stressful day changing thermostat, oil & filter.  Had to buy another hand pump for $45 & of course have one at home. The stress was from the NOAA enforcement official in a boat just two spaces down the dock.  Knew any oil in the water was gong to be even a bigger deal than normal.  Just a couple drops can create quite a sheen that's very noticeable.   Got the job done without having to pay a big fine, so alls well that ends well.  

Had planned on leaving with the ebb tide about noon & it's a good thing we didn't go.  VHF is saying 40 knot gust in areas of Fredrick Sound this afternoon.  That's up a bit from the 5 to 15, I had planned for.  This morning wasn't sunny but not raining either.  Its pouring rain now, that is supposed to continue for a good part of the next three days with perhaps more wind then we want too.  May just still be here when Sam arrives.

Tom, I'm really pleased with the new Mokai's  power & speed increase.  It has made a major difference in the fast water rivers.  I told Jody the centrifugal clutch with a neutral was a plus too, now after a couple months on it, not so much.  Have taken it back out.  Have to run to high of rpm to engage & the higher noise it makes is not worth the benefit.  Works great for fishing & just running rivers, but I'm more interested in approaching the wildlife quietly at a very low speed.

Jay
 
I have had a sea lion on my 22 cruiser while anchored off Whiskey Gulch in lower Cook Inlet, but I was not on board at the time. Had to scare him off before I boarded. Other than a slight fish smell and a couple of small scratched from his flipper claws, my boat was no worse for the experience. Don't think he was running from Orcas, I think he just wanted to take a break from the 4-5 footers that day. I had to take a flying leap to get on board myself that day.

Have spent quite a bit of time around brown bears and, while they can be unpredictable, I am with Jay - one of them boarding my boat is very low on the list of things I worry about while anchored.
 
We'er overdosed on Peterburg, so with favorable wind & tide will be leaving here today for Gambier Bay on Admiralty Island.  We should then be in Fords Terror around the 20th to 22nd followed by Tracy Arm.  We will then be doubling back around Admiralty & back to the Chichagof Wilderness, Pelican, Elfin Cove & Hoonah.  Hope to meet up with Sam in Fords Terror or Tracy Arm.   Forecast is showing a decent period of weather on the way &  we plan on making the most of it.

Jay
 
6-17-12

Have AT&T IPad service here in the middle of Fredrick Sound.  Is raining to the south around Kake & clear to the north where we are headed to Gambier Bay, Admiralty Island.  The Brothers Islands are to our front Port & the Five Sisters to Starboard, not a boat in sight in any direction & five whales very close with many more in the distance.  Water has been like a big smooth lake.  Will be anchoring in Snug Harbor in about three hours.

Jay
 
6-17-12

Anchor down & all secure just before dark.  A very enjoyable & relaxing slow cruise day of 63 miles.    The scenery magnificent with an  ever changing contrast of fog, clouds & sun on smooth water with snowy mountains all about .  Due to Devils Thumb & it's mountain range east of Petersburg & Fredrick Sound being obscured in the fog & clouds the stand out was Baranof Island with its rugged peaks all snow covered shining in the sun & framed by a brilliant blue sky.

7 miles testing motor around Petersburg then 63 more to here today for total of 1336 miles this trip

Jay

6-18-12

The IPad I'm using to share this adventure has been & is a fantastic tool for the trip.  With the increased areas of AT&T connectivity I've been continually surprised at how often & the many places we've been able to connect to the Internet.  It's easy to slip into a inner jacket pocket to carry around in port & most all towns have wifi access with some being 3G with the town of Sitka providing wifi free with no codes to access.  That combined with the built in GPS & the Navionics app now being my favorite for navigating has made it a real jewel.

Saw 4 bears today.  The first a large older thin one by Snug Cove & then 2 cubs with their mom by the boat where we are anchored in our favorite little secure cove towards the north side of Gambier Bay.  Overall the southern coves of Admiralty Island seem fairly tame now after the outside coast & Baranof Island & especially without the fish running like they were in 2010.  
Heard a lot of shooting today.  Don't know if it was hunters or what.  Never saw boats in the area it was occurring.

No rain all day which makes for I think 6 days out of 63 & the temperature made it into the 60's which felt great.  Bugs started to come out while in Red Bluff Bay & lots out here tonight.  Between bug spray,  proper clothing & the Thermacell Mosquito Repellar they'er not really a problem.  

Made several long rides in the Mokia & circled most of Gambier Bay in the Hunkydory.

15 miles today & 1351 total

Jay
 
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