St.Johns River, Florida

First a disclaimer...I am not a writer, nor a scientist/educator so this post may seem disjointed. Also, my apologies for calling Lake Monroe, lake sanford, as there are those that would take exception to that mistake. When I lived in Orlando back in the early 70's it was always "the lake at Sanford" and I'm having to always correct myself.

We launched from the Monroe Harbour Marina mid Sunday afternoon and got a slip for my triumphant wife who successfully completed her first marathon. Way to go, Baby! After a 5 hour run you kinda need a shower, and I bought her dinner at Wolfy's just a short walk from our slip. She was dead asleep by 5:15. I commend the city of Sanford for they have quite the Riverwalk and is well used by all sorts of folks.

The next morn we commenced our "no itinerary" trip with a slow cruise out of the marina, across Lake Monroe to our first railroad bridge. We will hear the trains using this railway all throughout our trip. This added quite well to the ambiance of olden, slower days of the paddlewheels that plied these same waters. It was not expected that we would never get on plane and the slower place was a nice change. Being coastal saltwater types, the fresh water environment was a welcome change. Easier on the systems too, and allowed us to really extend the onboard supply of fresh water. We could easily do a week, 2 adult humans and 2 canines, without resupply. It should be mentioned that when someone speaks of the St.John's that we are talking about a major system of interconnected waters. We visited and transversed lakes Monroe, George, Little George, Woodruff, Dexter, Beresford,; did spring runs up the Wekiva, Juniper, Salt, De Leon; ran the "Dead Rivers" Hontoon, Norris and Zeigler; in addition to the Oklawaha River, Murphy Creek and numerous coves. A couple of notable exceptions would be Rice Creek and Silver Glen which we did the last trip and remember well. For the timid, we admit to bumping a few logs, but at sub 3 knots no damage to boat or engines and I can say that with reasonable care you're well rewarded by the experience. The river water level is 8-10 inches lower than when we were here in 06/07 and this afforded myself and the pups endless opportunities for virgin swamp walks. We managed 3+ stops per day and even got in a couple of swims. Swimming begs the mention of gators, lots of them. In fact, if one was to do a "Big Year" this would be a good place to start. The wildlife was incredible with lots of gators, hundreds of turtles and thousands of birds. Betty caught 7 or 8 different species of fish, so we had surf and turf dinners, and channel cats with eggs for breakfast. These are not NW/Alaskan fish in size but quite edible none the less.

Some random thoughts and observations.....

13 days/12 nights we anchored out every night but two. There is nothing like fishing in your slippers. I have to wonder, and have yet figured out, why a day on the water goes sooooo much faster on the boat. Believe me when I say there is not a moment to spare, never bored, and unlike summer days, not one single nap! We did the first night in Sanford and they have a very nice waterfront. Day 11 we rented a slip at Hontoon Island State Park. We had a friend drive over from the Brooksville area and spend 2 nights aboard with us exploring that area. This is a very nice facility and we spent 3 hours walking their trails the one morning we were there before our departure. We were the only boat other than the marina host boat. Water, power, quiet, low cost. Note, be sure to circumnavigate the island by heading upriver from the marina to marker Red 82 and take the old mosquito ditch to the Hontoon Dead River. Very cool and don't forget to lower all antennas, flags, anchor light. We did this as a routine for all our spring runs. You will find marinas, some not more than a fish camp, and others with the full facilities. Most of my need is for supplies rather than a place to spend the night.

Astor has a couple of marinas and 2-3 restaurants.

Georgetown Marina at the top of Lake George has always been a good stop for us, maybe not for overnight but we have always resupplied with them, friendly and have a working pump out.

Welaka is a jewel. You can stop at the public boat ramp and walk up the hill to the bait shop. JR runs the place and has ice/bait/local knowledge. One block further east is a convenience store, pharmacy, restaurant.

Palatka has made great strides in establishing themselves as a waterfront destination. They have very nice courtesy docks and a charming waterfront. Unfortunately they do lack downtown businesses still. We walked several blocks in search of a grocery store before learning there are none within walking distance. However, East Palatka has a grocery store which is accessible from the dock at Corky Bell's, a restaurant located at Devils Bend on the River. The restaurant was gracious enough to let us dock and walk across the street to buy provisions. When we returned we opted to stick around for some drinks and dinner. BTW...the cruising guides that mention Burger King on the water...well not any more, they moved across the road and are now located by the grocery store.

Pictures at http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php
 
Molly Brown":29bb9kku said:
First a disclaimer...I am not a writer

I beg to differ! I really enjoyed reading your account, and would love to explore the area.

Thanks,
Sunbeam :hot

PS: I had never heard of a "Big Year" (thought maybe it had something to do with swimming with alligators :shock:, although that didn't really sound right), so I looked it up. Figured I'd post it here for others who might not know of it:

A big year is an informal competition among birders to see who can see or hear the largest number of species of birds within a single calendar year and within a specific geographical area. A big year may be done within a single US state, a Canadian province, within the lower 48 continental U.S. states, or within the official American Birding Association Area (defined as the 49 continental U.S. states, Canada, and the French islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, plus adjacent waters to a distance of 200 miles from land or half the distance to a neighboring country, whichever distance is less. Excluded by these boundaries are Bermuda, The Bahamas, Hawaii, and Greenland).

(From Wikipedia)
 
Thanks but you have no idea at how I struggle with this and the time I've spent trying to condense it all down. Don't hesitate to come on down, most do in the wintertime, and we had most places all to ourselves which surprised me some. There was very little river traffic especially during the week. Not to mention these Dory's go places most don't or can't.
 
Molly Brown":3r4y46eq said:
Thanks but you have no idea at how I struggle with this and the time I've spent trying to condense it all down.

I say expand it back out again :D :thup (seriously, I know what you mean though; I never do write up some trips because it is difficult!)

Molly Brown":3r4y46eq said:
Don't hesitate to come on down, most do in the wintertime...

Thanks! I'd really like to. I'll have to look up to see if I can figure out when it goes from pleasant to HOT (for those of us not used to "Florida hot").
 
Great read and wonderful pictures too.

Do you get lots of mosquitos down there this time of year? Other bugs?
Did not notice netting and appears to show you all out and about quite freely.

Sorry if it's a dumb question but never spent much of any time in Florida and absolutely ZERO time in Florida's non-coastal areas.

Tanks,
Dan, Tanya, and Hannah on C-Renity
 
I thoroughly enjoyed your sharing of this cruise. We too have come to prefer the slower trawler speed for the majority of our cruising when there isn't a specific need for going faster. In your photo album Betty does look quite relaxed & comfortable sitting in that blue adjustable chair. last summer we brought two of them with us on our Alaska cruise & what a difference in comfort they made during those three months compared to our previous extended cruises over the last 10 years in our CD 22.

I think your concerns about your ability to share your cruise in writing is the same one which stops many from sharing their adventures here & the main reason there are so few who do. It is a daunting task that for most is a difficult challenge not only in the doing, but in leaving yourself open to critique. I have very little formal education & prior to my sharing of our boating adventures here with the C-Brats my only writing was letters home during service time & a occasional memo during my working career, so probably had even more concern then you before beginning my first attempt. Just wished more would put their lack of confidence in their ability to share their adventures behind them, like you, because I think for many of us it's one of the things we most enjoy about this site.

Jay
 
The bug question was one I meant to address. I'd told Tad and Toby that we wouldn't be bringing the air or generator but the weather was so warm leading up to our departure that I decided to bring them anyway, and glad I did. The first 4 days of our cruise saw temps in the 80's and though the air did not have to work hard, I set it all up each evening. We all, human and canine, seem to sleep better with the gentle vibrations of the generator and the "white noise" of the air's fan, like being enveloped in a cocoon. Once the first cold front settled in we never used it again. I have been in Florida a long time and have never experienced the bugs we encountered on Lake Woodruff. Though they were not bitters, I have never seen the shear number of bugs that descended on us that night. Thousands! maybe a million. The buzz was deafening and that alone warranted the extra effort as my air is a portable unit for the time being. After that, each evening at dusk we would get some bugs but they would soon vanish once dark set it. Evenings were very pleasant.
 
Hi James and Betty,

Great write up! Enjoyed the photos, too. As one who has written up a trip or two :roll: , just write for yourself. It makes a great "diary" you can refer back to. The more you write, the easier it gets.

Thanks for sharing that with us.

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
Great info and description of a neat cruise-planning on cruising this river in Nov. of this year- just wondering for navigation purposes did you use paper charts or GPS chip?

Thanks

Ken
 
Ken, I flew blind. Used the sonar exclusively. I would have gladly download the gps info but Betty really enjoys navigating. Gives her a semblance of control, lol. Anyway, I talked to a local captain about this one route we were unsure of and he says " got a phone? ". Betty does happen to have an Iphone and we did bring up aerials of some tight spots but I agreed with her it's more fun to just go with the paper charts and discover what's what. We used a flip chart kit from Maptech, East Coast and inland, that's been on my boat for 10 years. These are based on NOAA charts and for the most part are amazingly accurate.
 
How do you get from the ICW to St. Johns River way south of Jacksonville? I live on the ICW between Jacksonville and Daytona Beach and would like to do a loop cruise. If I go south on the ICW, where can I cut over to St. Johns south of Daytona?

Thanks!
Blues Cruiser
 
You can't. What we did in over the holidays in 06/07 was to pick up a friend in Orlando to drive over with us to Daytona, launch the boat, then he drove the truck and trailer to the I-4 ramp in Sanford. It sat there for 2 weeks while we cruised up to Jax on the intercoastal and then down the St.John's to Sanford. From there we loaded up the boat and drove home. Worked out great. You could do it in reverse. Have someone drive over with you to Sanford, go down river to Jax then pick up the coast route back to Flagler Beach.

What we call the Florida Loop is Ft.Myers to Stuart then down to the Keys, across the Everglades and back up the west coast to Punta Gorda. That was 700nm in 8 days, an exact opposite of the St.John's cruise we just completed. Much too fast but a trip full of memories nonetheless.
 
The St Johns River is my favorite boating site. We'll be leaving in about a week for our third consecutive visit. I have paper charts, Garmin GPS, Navionics Charts on a tablet as well as the Tablet maps. All have been helpful. I have found the navionics charts to be the one that filled in where all the others were lacking. As I recall I have a Pic in my album of the navionics chart on the Okalawaha river where all the others had no information and the river was running in multiple channels. The tablet maps are land oriented, but have lots information on local features and is good to give you a quick "big picture".

We will be based at Sanford Boat Works, a very nice and accommodating marina, from 2/11 for about 2 weeks. This year we have no itinerary. We are familiar with the area now and are just going to wander. We are planning to spend about a week on the Suwanee, another favorite. Maybe we'll stop in Apalachicola on the way home.

Winter projects are about done. We're putting the boat back together now.
I just discovered today I installed one impeller backwards (oops). I'll change and test it tomorrow. We are anxious to be back on the water!

Bruce & Joyce
Carpy
 
I found the Ocklawaha to have really changed from our last visit. I'm told that the digging of the Cross Florida Barge Canal radically changed the river. There were plans to fill in the lake to try and restore the area but the lake draws tourist and fisherman and the the surrounding communities fought it. In 06/07 we were all the way up to US19 but could not get that far this time. This is a pic of how far we went up (we did not make it to US19)

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php

There was a wide open area beyond the "s-curve" but we just couldn't/didn't navigate beyond that spot. May have been doable in a 22.
 
I think you went up Bear Creek instead of the main channel of the Oklawaha. Bear Creek is really a side channel, and meets the main Oklawaha a few miles upriver from the St Johns where your photo was taken, I think. Here's a link to my photo at the same spot:

http://smittypaddler.com/cds/cdc/fl09/p ... G_1828.JPG

Where you entered Bear Creek from the St Johns, if you'd gone 200 yards further north you would've found the main channel of the Oklawaha. I've been to Hwy 19 and further up to the dam several times in my C-Dory with no problems.
 
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