Starting a cold kicker

C

ccflyer

New member
This is my first season with the Johnson 8 HP (four stroke hand start).
Last Sunday with the temps in the 30's I couldn't start it in the morning but gave it a second try in the afternoon - when it was in the 40's - and she started on the second pull.

This morning it was 19 degrees and she wouldn't start. Of course in this weather I'm not heading out without my back up motor so here I sit.

So short of "tenting it" and blowing in hot air, kind of like preheating a small plane, does anyone have any ideas? :idea:
 
Phil-

I like your idea of pre-heating the motor. A bonnet style hair dryer would do the trick, though you'd probably have to either enlarge the bonnet or not use it and connect the hose up underneath the motor cowling. OTOH, with the cowling removed, it just might fit the motor's powerhead!

I'll probably get cited as a Pre-Pyromaniac by Fireman DaveS, or written up by Dr. Bob for Motor Malfeasance, but I'd suggest you might try some starting fluid (ether) to jump start that motor. It has worked for me before! Just be careful with this stuff because of it's extreme flamability.

The other option would be a tune-up, but that may well not be the real problem, which is simply too cold of a working environment.

I'd suggest you call or visit your local outboard dealer and talk to the mechanic about how they deal with this to find out what cold weather operation steps can be taken to make an outboard work in very cold environments. I'd be interested in what you find out!

Joe.

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Although the hot air sounds like a good idea, unless you have a 2 KW genset or are at a dock, it may not be practical.

Joe has already cautioned about the ether--and the same holds true for WD 40. A very high percent of burns are caused by spraying WD 40 and then a spark ignition. But that may be the only solution. Although I don't live in these cold climates, I have done a lot of winter ski/ RV camping where we had a small hand start genset and it would start right up in even sub zero weather. I try and avoid ether--both the explosive and it is a bit harder on the cold engine.

I would certainly be sure that you have fresh gas in the kicker, and that the ignition system is in top shape. If the plugs may have some carbon in them, then replace, or at least clean and regap. Check all of the wiring for any corrosion or loose connections. You might pull the wires, clean and then re-assemble with some anti corrosion spray.

I would also pull the engine over slowly several times before trying the hard pull. You might also try cleaning the carburator. There can be some minor debris, or the jets may be off a little with some material in them--and getting the right mixture will help--sometimes the idle has to be made slightly richer in cold weather also.

I suspect that some of those who live in the artic will chime in with some better ideas.

Good fishing!
 
Bob and Joe have offered good advice. The temperatures you talk of aren't all that cold; the kicker should start just fine.

I recall a few years back when a friend and I were netting whitefish just before freeze-up. We had a 14' boat with my 1985 Johnson 15 HP pulled up on a rocky shore. We got into a three-day blizzard and had to shovel snow out of the boat and knock ice off the motor with a ball-peen hammer in order to get out to pull the net. The motor started on the first pull.
Al
 
ccflyer":2hc1gds2 said:
This is my first season with the Johnson 8 HP (four stroke hand start).
Last Sunday with the temps in the 30's I couldn't start it in the morning but gave it a second try in the afternoon - when it was in the 40's - and she started on the second pull.

This morning it was 19 degrees and she wouldn't start. Of course in this weather I'm not heading out without my back up motor so here I sit.

So short of "tenting it" and blowing in hot air, kind of like preheating a small plane, does anyone have any ideas? :idea:
Click to expand...

On my 1995 era manual start 8 hp Honda, in cool weather(0 to 20) the low oil switch keeps the ignition disabled until you have Pulled Enough to create enough Oil Pressure (Honda has a little green lite that blinks when O/P is good) to close the S/W then Full Choke & starts every time. I also switched to 5w-30 Synthetic Oil it made the pulling time a lot less :mrgreen: :beer
Next kicker will be Electric Start :mrgreen:
 
I do have a Honda 2000w but don't always have it aboard. This Johnson doesn't have more than a couple of hours use since new but, of course, that doesn't mean it couldn't use some tuning. I'm going to call the dealer tomorrow, who are friends - which is why it's a Johnson instead of a Honda.

So happens I've got a dashboard heater on order. I was going to see if I could cut down on the interior window condensation,
http://www.heartlandamerica.com/browse/ ... S&DL=SEH1#
Maybe I could tent the motor with a heavy weight trash bag and see if 150 watts of heat will suffice.

I'll post if I come up with a solution.

Thanks
 
My guess is that you have just a little bit of moisture in your fuel system and it is freezing the jets closed. Once it warms up the moisture doesn't freeze and the motor starts. I would pull the float bowl off and clean it out good. Then be sure to also clean up the jets real well and re-assemble.

Good luck and I would love to hear what you come up with!
 
I vote for trying fresh gas. In the old days (and maybe these days too) summer gas had a higher flash point so it wouldn't evaporate so quickly in the hotter weather. Conversely winter blends had a lower flash point so they would vaporize easier. If you still have some of that old summer gas in the tank it might be the problem, or part of the problem. Old gas tends to act the same way, as the lighter compounds have more time to evaporate. regardless of the season.

Hope that helps!

Mike
 
I would think it would take quite a bit of heat to raise the temperature of the 8 hp block and crankcase. Some diesel engines have a coil which heats the air as it comes in to the manufold--rather than heating the engine. I don't think this is practical for an outboard--for several reasons, including safety, but even using a 1500 watt heat gun will not do a lot on the outside of the engine.
 
Having Lived in Alaska 50+ years, I found some engines start better than other. The one thing that makes them equal is STARTING FLUID, just a very light spray into the carb. intake! ! !
Gary
 
Sometimes starting fluid has to be used to start an engine, but not an outboard engine, unless it is an emergency. Using starting fluid will prematurely wear out a gas engine at the least and at the worse, could blow a hole in the piston, bend a rod or do other serious damage to your outboard engine. Unless you are familiar with ether and know how to use it, don’t use it. Ether is too explosive for a light duty engine.
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Dave dlt.gif
 
Well, yes. Three aspirins aren't good for you either but it sure gets rid of the headache! It takes only a small amount of vapor to get that first pop. I agree continual use can damage an engine. I've not had any hand start engines that were very cooperative below 20 degrees.
 
The Johnson dealer came by the boat last Tuesday morning. I was not there. The temperature was in the 20's. He said after priming, and with the choke and throttle wide open, he got it to start after the 6th or 7th "manly pull".

I asked about using starting fluid. He agrees with other posts it is not advisable except in an "emergency". Then, when he does use it, he uses a brand called "Snap" because it contains "an upper cylinder lubricant and corrosion inhibitor".

I tried to start the motor Thursday with the temps in the low 30's. I couldn't get it to even cough after a dozen pulls - maybe they were not "manly enough". :oops:
So I tented the motor with a trash can size Hefty bag and with the engine cover in place, I used a hair dryer to blow in hot air for about 15 minutes. It then started on the second pull. Now, if I didn't have shore power, hooking up a 1500 watt dryer would become an issue.

FWIW: I've added a can of Snap Starting Fluid to the tool box.

Phil
 
ccflyer":b98m4cut said:
The Johnson dealer came by the boat last Tuesday morning. I was not there. The temperature was in the 20's. He said after priming, and with the choke and throttle wide open, he got it to start after the 6th or 7th "manly pull".

I asked about using starting fluid. He agrees with other posts it is not advisable except in an "emergency". Then, when he does use it, he uses a brand called "Snap" because it contains "an upper cylinder lubricant and corrosion inhibitor".

I tried to start the motor Thursday with the temps in the low 30's. I couldn't get it to even cough after a dozen pulls - maybe they were not "manly enough". :oops:
So I tented the motor with a trash can size Hefty bag and with the engine cover in place, I used a hair dryer to blow in hot air for about 15 minutes. It then started on the second pull. Now, if I didn't have shore power, hooking up a 1500 watt dryer would become an issue.

FWIW: I've added a can of Snap Starting Fluid to the tool box.

Phil
Click to expand...

Phil-

Looks like you've found a solution! I thought the hair dryer couldn't help but rectify the problem. Good that you have the shore power! I guess when you're out on the lake you'll have to be sure to start the motor before it gets too cold.

I think the starting fluid (ether) will still be a backup solution when nothing else is available.

Thanks for sharing the solution with us!

Happy Starting!

Joe :teeth
 
[quote= The temperature was in the 20's. He said after priming, and with the choke and throttle wide open, he got it to start after the 6th or 7th "manly pull".
I've never had a Johnson Outboard I could take to " Wide open throttle", unless I put it In gear (forward). Am I missing something?
Gary
 
Gary

He meant - I believe - pull out the choke and instead of setting the throttle to the indicated starting position - turn it as far counter clockwise as it goes.
You certainly don't want it in gear :wink:

Phil
 
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