Stress cracks in V berth??

I've looked at many CD22 boats and never seen stress cracks in those spots. And, those are quite the cracks and not normal. I don't think I'd buy that one if I were you. I wonder if they were caused from torsional forces from a water soaked and structurally compromised floor, but I am not expert in that.
 
I will give you my most likely scenario: First I don't believe that any of these are structural. The ones on the cabin meeting the deck, is an area which is a fairly sharp area in the mold. (remember the mold is reverse of what you see). The first item sprayed into the mold is the gel coat, then an opaque layer (in this case blue gelcoat). It will be thick in these inner recesses. The next layer is mat to keep roving from printing thru--but the mat is sort of "stuffed" down into this rounded area--and occasionally there are minimal voids there--little air bubbles, which may not be "worked out'. On top of that are several layers of 24 oz mat and 3/4 oz roving--alternately for this specific boat. The roving is where the structural strength is.

Inside the hull to deck joint is an "edge to edge" match. The hull was kept in the mold, and then the deck was placed on top of it. When lined up just right, some tabs of glass were set between the deck mold (including the cabin sides and cockpit gunnel sides) and the hull. Then the entire seam between the hull and deck were glassed together from the inside. What you are seeing at the upper edge inside the V Berth, just under the deck, is a little edge of one of those mat layers. Again, nothing structural there. The real structure is in the mat and roving which made the hull and the deck. The little dabs are the inside of the rivets which hold the cosmetic rub rail extrusion ion place. They are ground close to smooth, and then covered with a dab of...depennded on the year and factory--anything from epoxy, polyester paste, to Bostec sealant...maybe some other item.s. This is just cosmetic.

Now--I cannot tell about the rest of the V berth because it needs a good cleaning--if the tabbing which holds the V. berth in place is broken free from the hull, it may mean the boat was driven very hard, pounding...again not a danger, but something which should be addressed, with a new tabbing, using epoxy and cloth.after the area is cleaned, dried and then lightly ground to a good glass surface. I am not saying that this boat has been abused--because I cannot see that area well enough with the amount of mold or dirt (this is easily cleaned with some bleach, soap and water, plus a hose rinse. A beauty of the spartan interior of the C Dory.
 
Bob, I think he is looking to buy this boat. Would you buy it if you didn't know all the ins and outs, have the tools, experience, and had to have the shop do it? I guess maybe if the price was right, but I would steer clear personally.
 
T.R. Bauer":1ctfmtpp said:
Bob, I think he is looking to buy this boat. Would you buy it if you didn't know all the ins and outs, have the tools, experience, and had to have the shop do it? I guess maybe if the price was right, but I would steer clear personally.
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Yes, I know he is considering buying a 1990 C Dory 22 which is in the USA and the OP is in Vancouver. He cannot see the boat in person and is wisely asking in anyone in the Seattle area take a look at the boat for him. That is prudent. He has not been able to find a surveyor.

From the photos we have been shown, I don't believe that there are structural issues with the boat--that is only based on the 4 photos, which all involve the deck molded areas. I cannot comment on " if they were caused from torsional forces from a water soaked and structurally compromised floor", since there are no photos of the hull or floor. A 4 1/2" grinder and Dremel tool would be all the tools required to do repairs on these areas if one wanted to. Fiberglass tape and epoxy resin on the inside. Gelcoat on the outside. IF these were the only issues in the boat, I would consider buying it --if price, other condition etc were aligned. But we don't know if there are other issues.

There were photos by another poster of a similarly aged 22 which had some issues with plywood and strange wiring about the inner transom. Based on what was in the photos I advised that person to seek other boats, since he could not easily see that boat in person. If this is the same boat, then I would give that advice based on what I saw in the the photos.
 
You give great advice - no question there. And, it is alway appreciated. I have a feeling that if the floor/bottom hull was that wet and compromised the person taking the picture would know it for sure. You have amazing insights in the construction of these critter for sure :-)
 
Jcon12, Many years ago we repaired a fiberglass sailboat hull that presented similar gelcoat crazing and fiberglass "tears" under the gunnel. The boat had failed to stop while entering its slip at a local marina and hit the dock square on! Since your photos show a similarity to the damage we repaired, I suggest having a close look at the stem and surrounding areas of the bow.
 
Another opinion regarding the crack inside the V-berth... It definitely appears the port rub-rail was repaired or replaced. Comparing it to the starboard side, there are 14 vs 7 rivets, and the port rivets are covered with some type of sealant vs the starboard rivets which are still sprayed over with the original factory splatter paint. If I was considering this purchase, I would closely inspect the port outside just above the rub-rail for any signs of repair? If in fact the crack is a result of a hard approach to a dock, or perhaps from the boat against a dock rocking violently and coming down hard on the rub-rail which could "roll" the hull inward, I believe the repair (glass patch) would be fairly easy for peace of mind. It almost looks like maybe someone attempted to fill the crack with something by the looks of the smudge above the crack at the largest separation.
 
It definitely appears the port rub-rail was repaired or replaced. Comparing it to the starboard side, there are 14 vs 7 rivets, and the port rivets are covered with some type of sealant vs the starboard rivets which are still sprayed over with the original factory splatter paint.
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An excellent point, I didn't pay attention to. But since the OP cannot see the boat, and apparently no one is willing to look at it for him, unfortunately the issue appears to be moot.

If there had been a major repair, why would you leave the "original" coverings in place. The area back of the rub rail would probably have been ground down for putting in new glass if badly damaged. It is possible that the rivets had pulled loose/corroded, and second rivets were put in place, rather than the repair of drilling out that old rivet and using flat head machine screw and washer/nut inside the boat.

Thanks
 
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