struggling with cabin windows

J

jacuthbert

New member
Hello out there...
I am having quite a struggle when I try to open my 2 large cabin windows. They just don't slide easily. I know they need to be snug so that they are waterproof, but it takes both hands and a standing or kneeling position to get them open. I thought about rubbing soap on the brush inside the window frame, but I am reluctant...certainly WD40 is not a good idea either. Has anyone else run into this problem? any solutions?
Thanks in advance.
Amanda
 
Liquid Rollers is what we use to keep the windows moving easily. Clean the track top and bottom with some vinegar water, rinse with fresh water, let that dry, they spray on the Liquid Rollers (it's in an aerosol can).

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
The amount of debris that can harden in those window channels is amazing.

I use a weak power spray heavily on those channels when washing the boat and spray up from the bottom of those drainage openings on the lower channel. It takes minutes to get that debris up and out from each area, so take your time.

Years ago they recommended a special "Boeing" lube spray and I used that but it also gelled up over time.

Whether it is saltwater or fine dust, lots of things can get into that channel and set up.

I will try Jim's Liquid Roller, but just keeping them really clean helps a good bit.

The problem with any lubricant is that it attracts dust over time. Much of the old farm equipment had open gears and recommended no grease since the abrasion from the dust stuck to the grease would wear the gears out rapidly.

John
 
I use nothing but WD-40 to keep Napoleon's windows opening easily. About twice a season when they start to feel a bit snug I spray around the frame, open and close a few times, and voila.
 
Where do you get Liquid Rollers? Is it a garden-variety hardware store item?

Another thing, you have to unlatch the windows before you can slide them open, which involves pushing the latch lever toward the window, then pushing FORWARD to get the part the hooks behind the frame disengaged before trying to slide the whole shebang open. It is easier to describe than to do. But these windows are and always have been one of our gripes. They put a man on the moon, you would think they could make a sliding side window for a boat that opens easily.
 
Liquid rollers is just a dry silicone spray--others are 3M, LiquiQuick, Kiwi Camp, 3 in 1, etc. Most big box stores will have one of these in the lubricant department. WD 40 is basically a light oil, and it does leave a sticky residue--that is why I prefer the dry silicones.
 
In reference to the cleaning of the tracks, I'd have to agree. I've used a power washer and was amazed at the crap that washed out of the tracks/felt. Of course most of it was GREEN MILDEW, the prevalent "crop" of Wa. State. :mrgreen:
 
What Pat said: Push the window hard towards the "closed" direction before pulling in the "open" direction. You will be surprised by how much difference this makes.

I also use Liquid Rollers.
 
Amanda:
What Alok said!

"What Pat said: Push the window hard towards the "closed" direction before pulling in the "open" direction. You will be surprised by how much difference this makes.
I also use Liquid Rollers.
________________
Alok"
Click to expand...

Both of those points have made a big difference on the SleepyC. Cleaning the tracks is a very good point too. Our worst offender is the dried salt spray, but I make sure that the channels get rinsed very thoroughly after each time on the water.

The "Liquid Rollers" is available via West Marine, and it last pretty long. I spray the track in the spring, and maybe once way later mid season or so, and with the "Push forward " trick, the windows are pretty easy to work.

Good Luck.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

What else gets into the tracks? Seagull bombs :twisted:

IMGP2519.thumb.jpg
 
It is always nice to know I'm not the only person in the universe experiencing a particular problem! Great suggestions and I will get after the cleaning, opening the latch properly and silicone slidy stuff. Gracias!
Amanda
 
Push foreward; Check
Silicone spray; Check.
Clean window tracks; OK, I'll put more effort into that.

Hello, Harvey. Say hi to Deena for Adrienne and myself.
We missed you at the September Sequim CBGT 'cause we were intimidated by stories of crossing the strait and getting green water over the bow.
Turns out the weather was well behaved the entire weekend. :oops:
This year our C-Dory cruising will be curtailed as we are going to burn two weeks of my vacation time with a Greecian cruise. As cool as that may be I'd rather sail the Salish Sea in our little cockle shell and see friends.
 
I'm feeling a little "deja vu" in that we seemed to have traveled this topic route a year or so back, but...

I agree with the notion that being able to move the window a bit in a direction other than the desired, blocked direction will often dislodge the blockage and allow opening.

With the warning to do so judiciously, I am sharing the best way I've found to quickly dislodge the stuck C-Dory sliding windows:

I had purchased one of those royal blue emergency knife things from West Marine which had a thickness of about 9/16 th of an inch which fit perfectly at an angle engaging the lower edge of the window latch and the upper area of the front channel. This allows a kind of "lifting" effect when one gently pries up and back on the window latch which lifts the window out of the bottom channel a bit and it usually just opens easily after that.

I am thinking that whatever the fibers, or bits of debris in the channel (I actually think those fuzzy sliding cushions get a 'set' to them that works against opening) get a 'set' where they are angling against any horizontal opening movement. Maybe when the window is slid shut, all the tiny hairs an debris just line up so that they oppose any reverse movement?

So, a bit of 1 x 2 wood or a knife handle judiciously used to "lift" the front window section will often pop the window loose rapidly.

John
 
drjohn71a":3o9olhz1 said:
I had purchased one of those royal blue emergency knife things from West Marine which had a thickness of about 9/16 th of an inch which fit perfectly at an angle engaging the lower edge of the window latch and the upper area of the front channel. This allows a kind of "lifting" effect when one gently pries up and back on the window latch which lifts the window out of the bottom channel a bit and it usually just opens easily after that.
Click to expand...

Is this the knife in question? If so, are you saying that you take the closed knife and stick it between the latch and the bottom track?

Warren
 
Yes, Warren, that's the knife and I do use it closed. However, picturing the Starboard helm window from inside, the knife handle is placed between the front channel and the window latch in the 11 to 5 o'clock position and the lower edge of the handle is user to lift up and back on the window latch.

Only the blue plastic contacts the window frame and latch.

'Sounds crazy, but it works.

John
 
My windows were very tight too and I found spraying Armorall on the bottom of the window and working the window open and closed a few times cured the problem.

Ed on "Rambler"
 
Edward Thieme":7ha4vgpt said:
My windows were very tight too and I found spraying Armorall on the bottom of the window and working the window open and closed a few times cured the problem.

Ed on "Rambler"
Click to expand...

Good idea. I put Armorall on a motorcycle seat once and, trust me, there was no friction or grip whatsoever! :shock:
 
Edward Thieme":qrsv7qt3 said:
My windows were very tight too and I found spraying Armorall on the bottom of the window and working the window open and closed a few times cured the problem.

Ed on "Rambler"
Click to expand...

Good idea. I put Armorall on a motorcycle seat once and, trust me, there was no friction or grip whatsoever! :shock:
 
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