swim step in way of engine

B

bluegene

New member
I have a 1987 22' Cruiser. I replaced a 60 hp Johnson with a 2011 90 hp Suzuki. The swim step mounted on the port side of the stern does not allow a full turn to port. The rear of the engine contacts the swim step.

One idea would be to simply saw off the edge of the swim step three or four inches. This would leave me with an ugly swim step, but with no holes in the transom to deal with.

Another idea would be to move the swim step to port three or four inches. I'm not sure how I would seal the holes. I think I have the original swim step which has a bracket under each side with two bolts each, 1/4" or 5/16".

A third idea would be to move the swim step to the starboard side which would make mounting my 5 hp Mercury kicker on the port side easier than its present location on the starboard side because the steering and fuel line, etc are on the starboard side and are somewhat in the way of the kicker. Also, the dealer that sold me the Suzuki said there was a part which could be added to the steering for main engine and steer the kicker. This third option would be most preferable if it would work, i.e. I could steer the kicker from the helm, I could tilt up the kicker when not in use.

I would appreciate feedback on filling holes, or any proposed solutions for my situation.

I have pictures but don't understand the instructions on how to include in this post.

Stephen
 
Other option: Have a welder or fabricator make a couple of offset brackets.

A small bracket or mounting plate that bolts onto your existing holes and has studs or mounting holes offset to the side to bolt the swim step to.

Most welders and fabricators are pretty creative, tell them what you want to accomplish and usually they will come up with something that will work.

Should be able to get it done for about what you would pay to have the holes professionally filled and gelcoated over.
 
Filling the holes is fairly easy. I woud say that is your best way to go. That way you can mount the swim step (I would certainly keep the full size) and the motor where you want them.

I like to use epoxy, and drill out the hole, to be sure that there is no moisture or rot in that specific area. If the slightly oversize drill brings out dry shavings (the transom will be plywood cored), then just inject a thickened epoxy. You want to fill the entire hole; not just a layer on the outside and inside. You can also drill out the hole to the size of a dowel rod--lets say 1/4" or 5/16", put a spiral groove in the dowel to allow the air to come out and the epoxy to be well distributed. Saturate the hole, and the dowel with epoxy and then tap it in place. (firm, but not tight fit)
The surface can be either covered with Marine Tex or gel coat (in a limited area the gel coat should work--don't leave the wood exposed.)

You can use Marine Tex for the entire filling, but if you do, be sure and tap it in place with a thinner dowel or nail to avoid any voids. Be sure it comes through to the inner hole. (you will want to remove the fuel tanks anyway to get in for the new bolts, and sealing properly (which will involve over drilling the holes, minor routing the core and then coating or filling with epoxy, and redrilling the holes in the transom the size of the boat, bedding with 4200 or 5200. My personal choice of filler is epoxy with cabosil and high density filler. I feel that it adheres better than Marine Tex--the outer layer can be tinted heavily with a white tinting resin to come very close to a match for the hull--but most likely most of these filled holes will be hidden behind the motor or swim step, when re-installed. In my album there is a seris of photos on filling holes.
 
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