Table with map embedded?

joefish

New member
I know I saw a photo of someone's table top with a map permanently fixed to it on this site. I've been searching for some info on how to do this but can't find anything here. The Admiral does decoupage so I put her in charge but the technique, while artistic, is not durable. On the internet I find something called Klear Kote that can be used to embed items like photos, beer bottle caps, etc but it looks like it takes some experience.

Does anyone have any experience or suggestions on how to afix a map to a table under a clear and durable coating? Not sure I'm ready to go the Klear Kote route yet. Thanks!
 
Waaaay back in the 60's we'd use polyester resin for some really groovy stuff like that. I remember making a table w/ some surf photos embedded it it out of a large, wooden electrical wiring spool. Wonder what happened to that thing? :lol:
 
I did that with Napoleon. I had a piece of actual glass (not plexi) cut to spec and placed an antique laminated map of France under it. The fiddles around the table are sturdy and holds it in place well (survived even pounding seas).
 
We had a sailboat that came with plexi fitted into the table, just for keeping a chart under there. I much prefer that method over permanently mounting a chart, then clear coating it... especially if you plan to roam outside that area or ever want to sell the boat to someone outside that area.
 
I had both safety glass and plexiglass on the table. This is really handly--and safety glass is probably the best method--but a bit heavier. I would not use non safety glass.

We have also made several tables using a poured epoxy technique. We used a Behr "50:1" epoxy, with a technique similar to Klear Kote. It was not difficult, but you have to pour on the epoxy to get about a 1/8" level surface--after the first coat. Many papers will become transparent, or at least change character unless treated. I would experiment with some old charts first.
 
My son in law mounts charts on his table top under a lexan sheet and trims the edge with a 1" x 1/4" board that has a quarter round board bonded to it. The quarter round holds the lexan down and creates an edge that also helps keep items on the table while under way. Removing a few screws allows a quick change of charts if you change cruising locals.
 
We cut plexi-glass at work all the time on a band saw then take the sharp edge off with the edge of a flexible ss ruler. It's easy to sand a rounded edge with 150 grit sandpaper.
 
David-

The folks at Tap Plastics here in California cut most all plastics with table saws with circular blades with smallish teeth that are kept extremely sharp.

The blades are used to cut nothing else, and are sharpened regularly.

The trick is you want to "cut" the plastic, not "melt" it.

I understand a router can be used for the edge shaping, but the cutting tool must be extremely sharp, and run at high speed.

I'm sure some Googling will reveal many more clues and advice.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
For the plexiglass top on Sea Angel, I cut the sheet with a very fine tooth blade (designed for this material) in a variable speed jig saw at low speed, enough to cut -not chip my way through and not melt the material. I did not hurry the work. I also used a hand sander and file on the edges to form fit the work to the top molding edges and the irregular shape of the hull side of the table.

The above plan was to have the top sit within the molding so it would not slide off the table and allow easy change of any display.


Art
 
I remember cutting plexi w/ a fine tooth band saw too (way back in middle school shop class). Then sand smooth. The hard part was fine sanding then buffing to get rid of any marks/hazing. I'd call TAPP Plastics and see what they say, since they do it regularly.
 
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