things a surveyor should check on a 2006 22ft Cdory
- Thread starter docsears
- Start date
I can't think of anything specific to 2006, but presuming you want to know about things that might apply to any C-Dory:
First of all, of course I would want a surveyor who knew what to look for. But then.... I would also have a list like you are making. Some of these things you may check yourself.
One nice thing about the 22 is that most things are pretty accessible and basic. There is not a lot hidden, with just a few exceptions (coring, under the cockpit sole if "your" boat has the built in flat sole, under the v-berth if no hatches there).
1) Parts of the hull, deck, cabinsides, and transom (and roof on some boats) are cored. There are many penetrations, any of which could potentially let water into the core and cause damage. So checking for a dry core is paramount. Wet core can be fixed, but can be time-consuming, expensive, or both. Tapping or a moisture meter can help to diagnose. This to me is the #1 thing to check out, by far.
2) Check rivets that hold rub rail onto boat. Is rail coming loose anywhere? You will probably see humps or small "globs" on the inside of the boat where the rivets are. Have any rivets broken through or are there leak trails? (Some owners have re-done these with machine screws.)
3) In a 2006... not sure if it may have the "rounded" cockpit sole that is actually the top of the bottom of the boat (which may or may not have a set of removable floorboards), or if it will already have transitioned to the "permanent" flat cockpit sole, but just know which you are looking at and inspect as much as you can (i.e. if there are floorboards, remove them and check underneath).
4) If the bottom is gelcoat, you can see and check everything over. If it's painted, try to at least find out what type of paint, but there is a slight mystery factor since you can't see under it (not that most bottom paint jobs aren't completely innocent, just that you can't see under them).
5) If there is an inspection port somewhere in the V-berth sole area (round hatch), open it and see if there is any water in there (there shouldn't be, but some boats have had leaks from the anchor locker drain/tabbing interface and/or the bow strip, and that's where the water ends up.
6) If the boat has a fuel-injected engine, then I think you can get a printout of things like hours, service points, etc. (from engine service/dealer).
7) If there is a trailer, don't forget to check it out (not that you would have).
Many other things are just "any boat" type stuff, of course.
Hope all goes well - exciting times!
Sunbeam
First of all, of course I would want a surveyor who knew what to look for. But then.... I would also have a list like you are making. Some of these things you may check yourself.
One nice thing about the 22 is that most things are pretty accessible and basic. There is not a lot hidden, with just a few exceptions (coring, under the cockpit sole if "your" boat has the built in flat sole, under the v-berth if no hatches there).
1) Parts of the hull, deck, cabinsides, and transom (and roof on some boats) are cored. There are many penetrations, any of which could potentially let water into the core and cause damage. So checking for a dry core is paramount. Wet core can be fixed, but can be time-consuming, expensive, or both. Tapping or a moisture meter can help to diagnose. This to me is the #1 thing to check out, by far.
2) Check rivets that hold rub rail onto boat. Is rail coming loose anywhere? You will probably see humps or small "globs" on the inside of the boat where the rivets are. Have any rivets broken through or are there leak trails? (Some owners have re-done these with machine screws.)
3) In a 2006... not sure if it may have the "rounded" cockpit sole that is actually the top of the bottom of the boat (which may or may not have a set of removable floorboards), or if it will already have transitioned to the "permanent" flat cockpit sole, but just know which you are looking at and inspect as much as you can (i.e. if there are floorboards, remove them and check underneath).
4) If the bottom is gelcoat, you can see and check everything over. If it's painted, try to at least find out what type of paint, but there is a slight mystery factor since you can't see under it (not that most bottom paint jobs aren't completely innocent, just that you can't see under them).
5) If there is an inspection port somewhere in the V-berth sole area (round hatch), open it and see if there is any water in there (there shouldn't be, but some boats have had leaks from the anchor locker drain/tabbing interface and/or the bow strip, and that's where the water ends up.
6) If the boat has a fuel-injected engine, then I think you can get a printout of things like hours, service points, etc. (from engine service/dealer).
7) If there is a trailer, don't forget to check it out (not that you would have).
Many other things are just "any boat" type stuff, of course.
Hope all goes well - exciting times!
Sunbeam
shellndanm
New member
Pay close attention to the rear hatches. Unless the owner epoxied the edges of the cut-out OR kept the boat completely dry, the core will be wet there. T
Tilt the motor up and sit on the foot. There should be no noticeable movement of the transom. As mentioned before, suspect any cored areas. These should be checked for saturation with ultrasound. Core repairs can be lengthy and expensive.
The boat is of a solid design, pretty bulletproof if the core is kept dry.
The boat is of a solid design, pretty bulletproof if the core is kept dry.
Check any holes drilled into hull for transducers, trim tabs, windless that were not factory installed. They should have been drilled oversized and been filled with epoxy and then had the screws installed inside the epoxy plugs. If it's not done that way you might inquire about someone doing exactly that or think about doing that for yourself. I would have them pull the front hatch also check for wet core.
D.D.
D.D.
anchorout":178vlne5 said:
The 2006 C Dory has a foam core in the transom. The floors are optional with the 2 panel lift out level floor--not glassed in.
The moisture in the core can be an issue. But unfortunately normal ultrasound meters will not detect this. We did develop a variant which will test laminate cores. It is similar in function to the currently available many thousands of dollars units used in aerospace and military applications. Unfortunately the marine survey industry is not interested in spending about $2000 and the time to learn to use such a device properly. Thermal cameras also can be useful for this application--and they are now less than $1000, but again, few surveyors own or know how to use them properly.
Look for screws penetrating the core where water may stand. In the cabin is less than an issue, but in some of my boats I have replaced the screws with fiberglass tabs.