Thru-Hull fitting length

H

haliman

New member
Installing a thru-hull fitting in the indention near the transom. Want to order parts but not sure of thickness of hull there so without drilling a pilot hole yet, does anyone know about the length of thru hull fitting I should order. I will have a 1/2" backing plate on top of the hull.

Thanks
 
If you are looking at the area with no core just forward of the drain plug--it is about 1/2" thick (actually slightly less). Add in the thickness of backing board, and thickness for the nut.
 
Yes that’s the area. It’s where my bilge pump is mounted also. ½” thick is all , ok. I was told by the factory the new boats are all fiberglass in that area so that would be great if my 2008 is that way also. Won’t need to worry about sealing the core right? Will still line the walls with epoxy I suppose. Thanks for the info, I will order the ¾” thru-hull which is 2.2” long (threaded shaft).
 
haliman":ikjg50xu said:
I was told by the factory the new boats are all fiberglass in that area so that would be great if my 2008 is that way also. Won’t need to worry about sealing the core right?
Click to expand...

I think I already mentioned this in a previous thread, but I would guess your boat is cored in that area. Not that I would bet on it (although if I were forced to bet I would say there is core there). My boat had about 3/8" of balsa core there.

For the through-hull length, part of it depends on the seacock (etc.) you are going to mount on it. One way I have done it is to order one that is plenty long, then after I get the hole drilled, put the through hull in place, then add the backing block, and then screw the seacock on. See how much exposed thread you have left over between the seacock body and the hull/backing plate (i.e. the amount that "won't thread on"), mark it, and cut just a bit more than that off the end of the through hull after you dismantle them again. If you thread the nut onto the through hull, you can use that to clean the threads (the seacock will replace the nut). That way you know it will be plenty long but not too long.

I would say mine was around 3/4" to 7/8" total (hull bottom, core, top skin), but that's just a guess, and I don't know how consistent they were anyway.

Dealing with the core can seem like a bit of a pain, but on a cored boat there will always be similar tasks, so unless you never work on it yourself at all, my feeling is that you might as well just lay in supplies and get a routine going. After a while it just becomes something you do. It is a bit fussy if you take the time to do a neat job, but it's not difficult (although sure, it would be nice not to have to do it at all).
 
Thanks - I will do it myself. I am pretty confident I will right the first time and will take the time. Will post pics when done.

Cheers!!
 
Sounds good! My mantra with epoxy (and other stuff) is to spend "extra" time before I start epoxying. I spend that time mentally going through the steps/laying out supplies, and (most of all) protecting/masking various surfaces. I put "extra" in quotation marks because I usually find that I save time in the long run vs. just diving in and/or cleaning up after the fact (if I had not prepped as much).

I bet you'll come out with a better boat and do a great job :thup
 
No - came with this:

jp1400-10.jpg


Need to buy the thru hull, flange adaptor, ball valve, some hose, etc. As far as I know no washdown kit comes with what I described. Must purchase separately.
 
I don't know what thru hull (flush, rounded below the surfaxe, stainer, with scoop type of pickup.

If there is much profile above below the bottom of the hull this could produce turbulence into the flow of water to the prop. Just be sure you don't get cavitation.

I have always put a stainer before the pump, between the sea cock or ball valve and he pump.
 
The pump has strainer (see pic) yes i will do my best to make sure it is not in line with prop. Will be using
mushroom type thru hull.
 
haliman,

That switch is very similar to the one I have for my wd pump. Mine is mounted on the forward side of the transome/splashwell in the starboard corner. Just the perfect place ...... to lean against when you reach for the aft cleat when docking or leaving and WHOOOPS ..... the pump is on and water is going everywhere.

Just a thought, put your switch where it is "less" convenient , and you will save yourself and your crew some wet surprises. OR put some sort of a cover over it that has to be lifted up to get access to the switch.

Since mine was already there, I made a small wooden guard that sits right up next to the switch, and sticks out past it about a quarter inch to take the unintentional weight. Has worked OK for the last 4 years,

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
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