Tips on starting the kicker

J

Jazzmanic

New member
This past weekend I tried starting our Suzuki 9.9hp kicker (carbureted, 4-stroke) after 6 months of inactivity and I couldn't get the darn thing to turn over. I believe it was serviced immediately before we stored it on the trailer for the winter so the plugs should be good. I tried playing with the choke, in and out, halfway, not at all, and played with the throttle position. In the past when I did that, I would eventually get it to start to turn over and then start. This time, after two separate tries, I couldn't get it going. In comparison, our fuel-injected Suzuki 90hp started right up after the same amount of inactivity using the same fuel with Stabil.

It seems as if it's not getting any fuel. I'll double-check if it was serviced back in September and will either change the plugs or clean them out but besides that, any ideas?

Peter
 
Oh, I know all about this. A kicker needs love. As you first approach it, speak to it in a low calm voice. Tell it you understand that you have neglected it and you are sorry. Gently release it from its horizontal hold and lower it into the water. Think about how you feel entering the water after a long winter. Pull the choke out just a little more than half. Not a lot more, just a little. Now, and this is important, tell it calmly, that you are going to use it, and it alone, to propel the boat for a significant distance. Be sure to mention distance points that are familiar, like " from Mukelteo to Clinton, just like the ferry". Now grasp the cord and pull it slightly until you feel resistance. Then say with authority "OK baby, purr for poppa." Then give it one deliberate yank and shout "Shazaam". You're welcome.
 
Pull the plugs and inspect them even if they were replaced. It might be that they are gapped wrong or worse, bent shut. It happened to me once. The only other thing and I'm sure you already did this but squeeze the bulb real good until you can't get anymore fuel into the kicker. Beyond that, I have no idea's as to why it won't start. Did you use fuel stabilizer?
 
Marty,

Oops, forgot to add, it's electric start. But in fear of running down the battery, I did try to pull start a couple of times, no luck. BTW, Lizzie sure looks cute (and very small) at Lakeside Marina. I pass it everyday on the way to and from work.

Spencer,

Yes, the fuel was stabilized last fall. Same fuel which started the 90hp. I think you're right about the plugs. That's the first thing I'm going to check on when I get back up to the boat. And I did squeeze the bulb real good but I'll try that as well.

Thanks for the suggestions guys.
 
Peter, don't get your feelers hurt by me saying this but you would not be the first guy in the world to forget to check the safety kill switch. I know from experience. In fact, that's about the only thing that will keep a Honda from starting. Don't know about Suzukis.
 
TyBoo":olw34e00 said:
Peter, don't get your feelers hurt by me saying this but you would not be the first guy in the world to forget to check the safety kill switch. I know from experience. In fact, that's about the only thing that will keep a Honda from starting. Don't know about Suzukis.
Click to expand...

Very good point. I had that happen to me too. :oops:
 
If the starter motor turns the engine over but it doesn't at least sputter with some kind of firing sound, and you squeezed the bulb to get the fuel up there, then I would put money down on it being the safety kill switch. Sometimes it looks like it is on but if it is off just a little, that can do it...good luck! Also, I remember Crazy Frazee made a point of starting his kicker every single time the boat was leaving the dock - kind of a PITA but probably a real good practice.
 
I did check the safety kill switch, it seemed to be tight. Don't worry about my feelings, been there done that! :oops: I usually try to start it everytime but I overlooked it the first two times we took the boat out in Feb/Mar.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll keep trying. I'm sure it's nothing major, I just need to spend a couple of hours looking into everything.
 
Spark plugs are cheap. Just replace them!

In this kind of situation I will typically change the plugs, and then get out the can of starter fluid. This is VERY not recommended so do it at your own risk! Spray a very small amount in the air intake, start to crank it over and then close the choke. Usually that will be enough to fire up the motor. If it runs for a few seconds and dies then you have a fuel delivery problem and need to look for the culprit.

On these wonderful new kickers these days about the only thing that goes wrong is that the lousy fuel we use has gone bad while inside the jet of the carb and you now need to "rebuild" the carb. IE: Remove it, unplug all the jets, clean it up and put it back together. On my old '84 Honda 7.5 hp kicker I had to do this every time the motor sat for more than a month. Even if I ran the carb dry. The jets were so tiny they would plug up super easy. And since it only took me about 20 minutes to accomplish I just did it as one of the things I had to do before taking the boat out after sitting for a while. On that carb, I didn't even need a gasket kit as the float bowl gasket was a rubber O-Ring type that could be re-used so long as you didn't get fuel or carb cleaner on it when you took it apart.
 
Here is what I have to do with my 2 cycle 8HP suszki. After running dry and putting it away, when I fire it back up it seems to air lock ? The primer bulb seem hard and full of gas, but it is full of air ! I undo the gas hose from the motor and press in the little round ball that is in the hose with a small screw driver, then I keep the ball depress while squeezing the primer ball until the gas squirts out, hook the gas hose back up to the motor and prime some more, pull the choke out all the way and open the throttle all the way. Give it a few pulls and it usually fires right up. Hopes this helps you.
Good luck.
Dave & Ruthi
Raven Dancer.
 
Peter,

Can you clarify that you when you said the kicker did not turn over, did you mean that the starter did not spin the engine? If the engine spins, can you hear it fire at any time?

Assuming that the starter does spin the engine, I would check the basics, ignition and fuel delivery first. You can remove the engine cowl and have a helper turn it over while you pull one spark plug wire and hold it close enough to the plug tip to see an arc (should be bluish). If that is normal, procede to fuel delivery. If no spark, find out why? 12 volts to coil (if you can access the coil primary). If not, why? connection?

A quick fuel test is to see to choke the engine, spin it and see if a little fuel is puddling in the carb throat. If not, remove the fuel pump diaphram and ensure that is supple and has no holes in it. I am assuming that your engine is configured this way. You can pull the hose from the full pump outlet and determine if fuel is being delivered when the engine spins.

Did your engine run after you had it serviced or did you test it?, If it ran, the chance of plug problems is low. If it had not been tested since last season, I assume that you will pull them and look at their condition and whether or not the electrode is closed shut as already suggested.

Hope this helps..........

Richard :roll:
 
We always (well almost) run all of the fuel out of the carbs, even when using Stabil. I had my Honda EU 2000 refuse to start a couple of months ago--and it had been 3 months since run. The carburator had some percipitation in the bowel and gunk in the jets, even though it had been running prefectly in the past.

I would pull the kill switch back and forth several times to be sure the contacts were clear. Check the spark as above. I prefer to use WD 40 over either--but if nothing else will work, after changing the plugs, and cleaning the carb, I would be tempted to give it a shot of starting fluid--very cautiously!
 
Bob,

Just to show you how things have changed. I just decided to see if my dad's 1972 4 HP merc could be started and used on my dinghy.This little motor had not been started in over 30 years. I replaced the fuel pump diaphragm, replaced the water pump, hooked it up to a new tank with clean fuel and gave it a pull. The damn thing started on the 1st pull and nearly scared me silly. I am probably going to replace all of the gear case seals for good measure before I put it back in service. They really don't make them like they used to. This motor has a rubber slip clutch and does not require shear pins. It weighs 42 lbs.

Eat your heart out 4 stroke kickers....................

Richard
 
RichardW":di97jb1m said:
Bob,

Just to show you how things have changed. I just decided to see if my dad's 1972 4 HP merc could be started and used on my dinghy.This little motor had not been started in over 30 years. I replaced the fuel pump diaphragm, replaced the water pump, hooked it up to a new tank with clean fuel and gave it a pull. The damn thing started on the 1st pull and nearly scared me silly. I am probably going to replace all of the gear case seals for good measure before I put it back in service. They really don't make them like they used to. This motor has a rubber slip clutch and does not require shear pins. It weighs 42 lbs.

Eat your heart out 4 stroke kickers....................


Richard
Click to expand...

I am going to tell you right now, I would not trade my 6 hp evinrude twin for any of the 4 strokes out today. Here's a shock, it is quieter.......
 
Doryman":1qm702km said:
thataway":1qm702km said:
We always (well almost) run all of the fuel out of the carbs, even when using Stabil.
Click to expand...

Bob, how do you get the gas in the tank out so you can run it dry?

Warren
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Warren – start youe engines, then disconnect the fuel lines to your engines and let them run until they stop.
________
Dave dlt.gif
 
I don't know if Warren's question was for the Honda EU 2000 or outboards. The Honda just shuts off fuel and ignition--and there is fuel left in the bowl--now I drain the carb bowl.

Small outboards have a valve on the bottom of the tank, and I shut these off. The mid size motors, we pull the plug. The larger motors which are injected we don't worry about as much.

I am not willing to trade my 4 strokes or modern 2 strokes for a 30 year old engine. I spent too much time in my life cussing and trying to get outboards to start. Having said that--when we usually used the motors daily and they were fine. It was sitting around that caused problems.

Again--I also emphasize that ether is the last resort--but I have used it a few times, with great caution.
 
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