Lets see if I can help:
1. Acc 2 switch has power to it, (so the red light comes on when you turn the switch on) but in my boat there is no circut connected to the output (the lowest of the spade connectors). If you put anything on this circuit, you will need to put an appropiate fuse in line. There are extra fused circuits on the fuse block, which is just foreward (from the back of the console) of the inboard switch pannel (the one which has acc 2 on it).
2. Yellow and red is "safety wire" for 12 volts. The old code was red positive and black negative. Since black is also "hot" 120 V AC, the code was changed to yellow for negative on the 12 volt circuit.
Yes Squidslayer, there should be a 12 volt cig lighter plug under the dinette by the switch pannel and 120 V AC. There are multiple uses for 12 volt plugs and by convention the "cigarette lighter" plug is utalized.
If there is no power, at this plug there are one of several possiable problems--that the wires were never hooked up, that the connection is improper and or that a fuse is blown. (I had all of these problems in my new Tom Cat 255). Unfortunately you will have to trace the circuit back and find out. If you don't have a 12 volt digital volt meter, now is the time to get one and learn how to use it. I was given a wiring diagram, but it was only for the console area and not for the boat.
C Dory should include a complete 12v and 110 volt wiring diagram in their manaual (more about the manual later)
I have added 3 more cigarette plugs. One in the cockpit under the combing box--for dinghy inflator and a light to be used in the cockpit or spotlight aft. One under the dinette seat foreward for computer, or sterio in the bunk. One foreward of the console in the bunk area, where we have our 12 volt LCD television. These plugs are very useful--perhaps it would be better to have a different configuration--but this is what we have.
3. The battery charger will work if the battery switch is off or on. The charger I got was two 5 amp circuits. This is totally inadequate for the boat, so I added an extra 20 amp dual output charger. In retrospect I should have added a 50 amp charger. The origional 5 amp charger goes to the engine start batteries (and in my boat not to the house battery, unless the "all" switch was on. I hope that the factory has rectified this issue and is supplying at least a 5, 5, 10 or a 5, 5, 20 amp charger.
4. The port tank feeds the port engine and stb tank feeds the stb engine. There is no cross draw or switching. You have to put the switch up or down to read the respective tank.
5. You can only find out if it is being charged by putting a volt meter on it. I do recommend a built in volt meter--digital; reading to two decimal places (12.65 volts). The way my boat was set up by the factory, is that the house draw comes from the STB battery switch. On position #1 (which is the engine start battery) the house feeds off that battery. On position #2, the house draws off the house battery. The Port battery is wired so that the #1 position is the engine start from the port battery, #2 is engine start from number 1 battery (stb engine start). (this is an unusual set up, and not conventional, but it does work). The house battery will only charge on the stb engine if you have the switch on "All" or #2. (I have been told that these switches are make before break, so that it will not blow the diodes on the alternater if you switch when running). Normall start and run with engines: Port on "all" stb on #1.
Some engines can be wired to have dual alternator output. Unfortunately my dealer did not tell me that, and I put in automatic charging relays, to charge the house banks on both sides. I have two additional house batteries--which are mostly dedicated to refigeration and electronics. These are charged off the port engine, and I installed the entire circuit.
I also felt that with the electronics and loads I have, that the factory wiring was not adequate, so I added two additional #8 wires (both positive and Negative) to the battery banks. I also added 6 additional switches and fuses. I have switches which will transfer the extra two house batteries to any other functions in the house, except start.
Now as to pre delivary inspections--it looks as if both Jimmydj and Squidslayer came out on the short end (I did too, but I assumed that it was because I was knowlegable boater)--mine was a quick run thru on some of the switches and start the engines, idle for a time--and no sea trial--the dealer and machanic had other things to do...)
The C D manual. Mine has some of the appropiate sub systems, but it also has some information from systems which are not on the boat. At best I would say it is confusing.
There is no real Tom Cat 255 specific manual that I recieved.
Here is what should be done. The factory should do a QA check on every completed boat, along with that is a signed check sheet for all systems, a copy of which is sent with the new boat to the customer. The dealer should do a QA check on all systems he installs and a copy of that goes to the buyer.
Finally there is a PDI, at which time, the dealer spends at least an hour going thru the various systems with the buyer, being sure that each system works and that customer under stands how these systems work.
The manual should contain a detailed description of what each switch does, how each system works, and schematics of plumbing, fuel, and electrical systems.
These are $120,000 to $150,000 boats--and there is absolutely no excuse for problems and misunderstandings as Jim and squidslayer have. If we are being sold a quality boat--then the factory/dealers need to step up to the plate and be sure that systems work and that the customer understands about the systems.
