gulfcoast john
New member
Joe,
We feel a water heater that runs on shorepower is useless without a generator. Who wouldn’t use the unlimited hot water at the marina’s shower instead? And the ‘gray’ sudsy shower water is pumped overboard by the sump pump, right to your marina dock mate. Gross. The rated 1750 watts on mine is right at the top of a Honda 2000 rated output, or that of a wall plug.
Simple 2-beer job to remove heater...disconnect all 110v/12v input, remove white, black, green wires and plug hose cold water inlet, hot water outlet, and overflow to shower sump with SS bolts screwed into the hose ends with SS clamps (so it’s easy to rep lace if next owner wants to). I put up a Lexan sheet at the back to keep things from hitting all that rigging that runs along the stbd side behind the heater, and stuffed the hoses down their rigging holes.
What I haven’t done yet, but is on The List, is to re-connect the water heating wiring and change out the 110v plug behind the helm seat with a GFI, (currently it’s daisy-chained to the port side 110v outlet and BOTH are on a 10 breaker) then connect the now-unused water heater 110v power to that. Re-label ‘water heater’ as ‘starboard 110v GFI’. Now we have TWO 110V outlets EACH with 10A capacity rather than 2 outlets sharing 10A.
This frees up an entire cabinet for storage of stuff you really don’t need on a boat, so I highly recommend it.
No need to remove the inop sump pump.
I T’ed a hose from the shower cold water input to the transom for a hose-off on the bracket for those 95 degree afternoons, but you don’t have nearly as many of those as we do.
I also plugged the raw water washdown intake with a rubber stopper and sealant as who wants to wash down with hot saltwater when you’ve been in it all day?
Best,
John
We feel a water heater that runs on shorepower is useless without a generator. Who wouldn’t use the unlimited hot water at the marina’s shower instead? And the ‘gray’ sudsy shower water is pumped overboard by the sump pump, right to your marina dock mate. Gross. The rated 1750 watts on mine is right at the top of a Honda 2000 rated output, or that of a wall plug.
Simple 2-beer job to remove heater...disconnect all 110v/12v input, remove white, black, green wires and plug hose cold water inlet, hot water outlet, and overflow to shower sump with SS bolts screwed into the hose ends with SS clamps (so it’s easy to rep lace if next owner wants to). I put up a Lexan sheet at the back to keep things from hitting all that rigging that runs along the stbd side behind the heater, and stuffed the hoses down their rigging holes.
What I haven’t done yet, but is on The List, is to re-connect the water heating wiring and change out the 110v plug behind the helm seat with a GFI, (currently it’s daisy-chained to the port side 110v outlet and BOTH are on a 10 breaker) then connect the now-unused water heater 110v power to that. Re-label ‘water heater’ as ‘starboard 110v GFI’. Now we have TWO 110V outlets EACH with 10A capacity rather than 2 outlets sharing 10A.
This frees up an entire cabinet for storage of stuff you really don’t need on a boat, so I highly recommend it.
No need to remove the inop sump pump.
I T’ed a hose from the shower cold water input to the transom for a hose-off on the bracket for those 95 degree afternoons, but you don’t have nearly as many of those as we do.
I also plugged the raw water washdown intake with a rubber stopper and sealant as who wants to wash down with hot saltwater when you’ve been in it all day?
Best,
John