Totally Off Topic - Gate Valves for Water Heater Bypass - RV

Wandering Sagebrush

Free Range Human
I know this is way off topic, but there are some real experts in the group, so I thought I would toss out the question.

I am currently out at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge chasing sage grouse and other critters with the camera. Night before last, it got quite cold, and at first I thought I had ruptured a water line, even though I kept the trailer at 65º. After snooping around, I found that two of the three gate valves for the water heater bypass were leaking from around the stem for the handle. My suspicion is that the cold shrank the bushings/gasket just enough for it to leak, and soak into the rug in the trailer.

Can these things be rebuilt? I could probably replace them, but the quarters are a bit cramped. If I do replace them, I am going to look for some small ball type valves.

Thanks in advance for your help.

If anyone is interested in the critters from this area, here's a link to my photostream...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/stephen_parsons/

Steve
 
Having had and winterized RVs in the frozen northland, it seems unusual that gate valves would be used on the waterheater bypass. Those lines only need to be open or closed, not gate controlled. If you know for sure that the gate valves are leaking, I'd replace them with ball valves, especially for that use; I don't know if a gate valve can be rebuilt (or if it is worth the effort).

If your waterheater lines are in a place that doesn't get heat from the furnace (either by vents or by leaving a cabinet open), you can put a small trouble light in that area for the occasional below freezing overnight.

A free opinion.

Jim B.
 
I agree; wonderful photos!

Yes, gate valves can be rebuilt--you may be able to use some graphite string packing on the stems. I do agree with the use of ball valves. Gate valves seem to me also to be unusual in this application. I would think heating the water when you go to bed, should keep the drain and bypass valves hot enough during the night.
 
Jim, Bob: Thanks for the feedback on the valves. I would have thought that Airstream would put something better in for that application. Bob, I am not using the water heater during the winter, so no opportunity to use the residual heat.

Rebuilding if possible would be a lot easier than replacing, or at least so I think. The packing string sounds like a good idea. We have a real good pump supply business at home, so when I get back to the wet(ter) side of the state, I will check in with them.

Thanks for the kind words on the photos. I'm having a ball out here in the boonies...
 
What's your supply piping? CPVC, PEX, Copper? I have no RV experience so that's why I ask.

Gate (and globe) valves have outlived their usefulness...quarter-turn is the way to go, but be very wary of Asian-sourced brass valves and fittings, due to "de-zincification" issues...the Chinese adulterate everything, from cat food, to brass fittings. Even with an American name on the product, such as Zurn or Watts, you can still get shafted with poor Asian quality (as evidenced by the dozens of class-action lawsuits currently pending against both those companies).

If the valves are difficult to replace, consider SharkBite brand ball valves...no soldering or open flame, and more reliable than compression fittings, in my experience.
 
Karl, the piping appears to PEX, which is good. Less fears of ruptured lines.

Thanks for the tip about Shark Bite valves. I've used their connectors before, and they work nicely!
 
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