Towed vehicle charger, I am thinking of installing one of those to keep the fridge going while on the road. I looked at a few brands, $80 to $ 100 seems to be the range for a 10 amp charger kit, Hard to find good reviews from actual owners though, Anyone has one? Any comments on particular choice installation and use?
towed vehicle charger
- Thread starter alainP
- Start date
Avidmagnum12
Member
Here’s the link to the one I’ve used for the last 4 years.
http://www.lslproducts.net/ToadChargePage.html
http://www.lslproducts.net/ToadChargePage.html
gulfcoast john
New member
I bought the above model in 2015 and like it a lot. It will provide 10 amps (not more) to keep the boat fridge running without depleting the boat batteries.
You can ‘roll your own’ cheaper, but you won’t get the convenience or the microprocessor that makes the system foolproof. I removed the system and re-installed it on the new truck. Credit to Dr. Bob for the find. I’d advise hooking up to the helm bus like I did.
From a Jan 2016 post:
“Installed the TOAD Charger Bob found...works wonderful, tastes great!
http://www.lslproducts.net/ToadChargePage.html
I hooked it up from the truck engine battery to the hitch to a harness wired to the boat helm DC bus (that is a big wire going back to the House battery rather than the 12g speaker twisted copper cable supplied...added a 15A fuse at the helm, 15A circuit breaker included for under the truck hood (2-parallel battery) link. This skips the main boat transom Blue Seas On/Off switches, but that doesn't matter since I'll only use it when trailering). Much cheaper (tho I am the Buy Quality The First Time Guy) and much easier than DIY with the VSR +10A voltage Limiter + 15A circuit Breaker + a microprocessor that Tells You What You Screwed Up with controller Flashing Light Pattern.
The Boat leg runs from inside the protected hitch tube to boat via the windlass chain tube to inside the V berth thru the anchor hatch under the cushions to connect INSIDE the v berth via hard wired connector to the helm +/- bus terminals...all this is outside the elements.
I love it... thanks again Bob, your advice and vast experience is always appreciated...no other Brat offered this great option!
I'll replace the boat link with proper Marine wire after retirement next summer, but 12g twisted copper speaker wire should last longer than that on my boat.”
Now I don’t think I’ll change out the copper wire since it’s not in use while boating.
Cheers!
John
You can ‘roll your own’ cheaper, but you won’t get the convenience or the microprocessor that makes the system foolproof. I removed the system and re-installed it on the new truck. Credit to Dr. Bob for the find. I’d advise hooking up to the helm bus like I did.
From a Jan 2016 post:
“Installed the TOAD Charger Bob found...works wonderful, tastes great!
http://www.lslproducts.net/ToadChargePage.html
I hooked it up from the truck engine battery to the hitch to a harness wired to the boat helm DC bus (that is a big wire going back to the House battery rather than the 12g speaker twisted copper cable supplied...added a 15A fuse at the helm, 15A circuit breaker included for under the truck hood (2-parallel battery) link. This skips the main boat transom Blue Seas On/Off switches, but that doesn't matter since I'll only use it when trailering). Much cheaper (tho I am the Buy Quality The First Time Guy) and much easier than DIY with the VSR +10A voltage Limiter + 15A circuit Breaker + a microprocessor that Tells You What You Screwed Up with controller Flashing Light Pattern.
The Boat leg runs from inside the protected hitch tube to boat via the windlass chain tube to inside the V berth thru the anchor hatch under the cushions to connect INSIDE the v berth via hard wired connector to the helm +/- bus terminals...all this is outside the elements.
I love it... thanks again Bob, your advice and vast experience is always appreciated...no other Brat offered this great option!
I'll replace the boat link with proper Marine wire after retirement next summer, but 12g twisted copper speaker wire should last longer than that on my boat.”
Now I don’t think I’ll change out the copper wire since it’s not in use while boating.
Cheers!
John
There is another way if you have a 7 pin trailer plug. I have just taken power off the 12 volt + and 12 volt - pins of the tow vehicle. In my current truck it is set up for 5th wheel, so I have an extra 7 pin plug in the side of the bed. I pull 12 volts off that for the camera I keep on the back of the cabin house to see the road behind the C Dory. I use the same power for keeping the boat's battery's up going down the road.
I have done it with just a diode from motor home chassis bank also. Just need a 2 prong connector. Feed the wire thru the deck pipe or the windlass deck hole---unplug when you get to location if necessary.
Diode will carry 85 amps--but there will be slight voltage drop, so you should not pull more than 20 amps. I just put a 30 amp fuse at both ends to avoid any possible shorts.
The "Toad kits" work very well. But you can pull right off the truck battery using the diode as above.
I also added add a circuit for the chest freezer / refrigerator. in our Lincoln MKX (which we tow behind the RV)-charge the battery from the RV, and run the portable refrigerator when touring or even if going to the store and the suv is hot--for bringing frozen food home.
I have done it with just a diode from motor home chassis bank also. Just need a 2 prong connector. Feed the wire thru the deck pipe or the windlass deck hole---unplug when you get to location if necessary.
Diode will carry 85 amps--but there will be slight voltage drop, so you should not pull more than 20 amps. I just put a 30 amp fuse at both ends to avoid any possible shorts.
The "Toad kits" work very well. But you can pull right off the truck battery using the diode as above.
I also added add a circuit for the chest freezer / refrigerator. in our Lincoln MKX (which we tow behind the RV)-charge the battery from the RV, and run the portable refrigerator when touring or even if going to the store and the suv is hot--for bringing frozen food home.
journey on
New member
I am just trying to learn something. So here goes. The Toad device is new to me.
On my Ford truck, there is a wire that carries truck alternator voltage/ battery voltage via a relay and fuse to the trailer plug. It comes on all Dorf trucks with the tow hitch. I wired this in to charge the breakaway battery and the refridg whilst we're towing. I wired the '63 Chevvie the same way.
So what does this Toad device add? I understand it has a voltage regulator and a way to avoid backfeed from the trailer to the truck, but the Ford does that via a relay/fuse and an alternator regulator (~13.6 V max.). Is this for a vehicle that doesn't have a relay/fuse? All vehicles have an alternator regulator.
Boris
On my Ford truck, there is a wire that carries truck alternator voltage/ battery voltage via a relay and fuse to the trailer plug. It comes on all Dorf trucks with the tow hitch. I wired this in to charge the breakaway battery and the refridg whilst we're towing. I wired the '63 Chevvie the same way.
So what does this Toad device add? I understand it has a voltage regulator and a way to avoid backfeed from the trailer to the truck, but the Ford does that via a relay/fuse and an alternator regulator (~13.6 V max.). Is this for a vehicle that doesn't have a relay/fuse? All vehicles have an alternator regulator.
Boris
Boris,
As above, I just ran the wire from the positive plug (same one that charges the battery) to the boat's battery in my Ford Truck.
I used the diode in the RV, where I was not sure about the diode.
The TOAD type of unit is designed for RV's and cars which discharge their batteries when being towed, since the ignition key needs to be left on. Some car batteries can be discharged in about 6 hours when being towed.
As above, I just ran the wire from the positive plug (same one that charges the battery) to the boat's battery in my Ford Truck.
I used the diode in the RV, where I was not sure about the diode.
The TOAD type of unit is designed for RV's and cars which discharge their batteries when being towed, since the ignition key needs to be left on. Some car batteries can be discharged in about 6 hours when being towed.
gulfcoast john
New member
Alain, I hope in 5 years you'll like it as much as I do and Tom.
Boris,
The microprocessor tells me if anything is wrong with my wiring...reversed polarity, a LED on for power present, a LED on for charging current, flashing LED's for all possible errors etc.
All that is not necessary for boaters who never, ever, make a switchcraft error.
I am not in that group. I wish I were!
For $95, $10 bucks a year pro-rated over a 10 year ownership, I would propose is reasonable. I also concur that Dr Bob's solution is much cheaper and is also more than very reasonable.
I currently tend to favor my choice for my rig, but all Brats should consider the best alternative for their own rig including how they can save some money for more gas and therefore more adventures!
We always propose that more Adventures are best!
Get out on your boat and and have fun!
John
Boris,
The microprocessor tells me if anything is wrong with my wiring...reversed polarity, a LED on for power present, a LED on for charging current, flashing LED's for all possible errors etc.
All that is not necessary for boaters who never, ever, make a switchcraft error.
I am not in that group. I wish I were!
For $95, $10 bucks a year pro-rated over a 10 year ownership, I would propose is reasonable. I also concur that Dr Bob's solution is much cheaper and is also more than very reasonable.
I currently tend to favor my choice for my rig, but all Brats should consider the best alternative for their own rig including how they can save some money for more gas and therefore more adventures!
We always propose that more Adventures are best!
Get out on your boat and and have fun!
John