I need to work on my tandem trailer bunks. Water is too far to drop the boat off. I was thinkin: If I jack one side of the trailer up as in changing a tire, block up the hull of the boat, remove the tires on one side for ground clearance, then lower the jack under the trailer. That should provide access to one side/bunks at a time. Sound too risky? Anybody try this?
Trailer access
- Thread starter C-WEED
- Start date
Hi, Chris,
Two years ago I had to replace several of the roller arms on my EZ Loader for my 22' Cruiser.
I just took the screw jack from my truck, with stable blocks under it, and took a carpeted 4" X 6" block of wood to use between the hull and the jack. (The hull bottom is incredibly tough, and can handle it nicely).
I cranked the boat up several inches, and blocked the hull up for safety.
Replaced the roller arms, and did the reverse. Worked fine.
The way I did it didn't require messing with the wheels. (Once I loosen the lug nuts on my wheels, it then requires multiple checks {and occasional re-tightenings} for multiple miles, to be assured that they remain tight. Even when torqued @ 95 foot pounds, I need to re-tighten at least three times before the nuts truly get "seated".
Ken
Two years ago I had to replace several of the roller arms on my EZ Loader for my 22' Cruiser.
I just took the screw jack from my truck, with stable blocks under it, and took a carpeted 4" X 6" block of wood to use between the hull and the jack. (The hull bottom is incredibly tough, and can handle it nicely).
I cranked the boat up several inches, and blocked the hull up for safety.
Replaced the roller arms, and did the reverse. Worked fine.
The way I did it didn't require messing with the wheels. (Once I loosen the lug nuts on my wheels, it then requires multiple checks {and occasional re-tightenings} for multiple miles, to be assured that they remain tight. Even when torqued @ 95 foot pounds, I need to re-tighten at least three times before the nuts truly get "seated".
Ken
starcrafttom
Active member
just an idea. I see and hear a lot of people struggling with the loading and unloading of their boats. first, i have never owned a boat over 20 ft but have owned and operated a lot of boats, of different types, under 20 ft in the last 30 years and ian only 39. most people just put to much of the trailer in the water. i was taught at a young age to always drive the boat on to the trailer. wind and current do not matter at all if the boat is slide "on to the trailer" instead of "over the trailer" why would anyone try and hold a boat in position over, some times 3 ft over, a fully submerged trailer. my wife backs the trailer half way in and i drive the boat on to the trailer. the front of my boat will be resting on the bunks when my bow is a ft or so from the wench and front roller. then a little gas will slide the boat up the last foot and the back of the boat will be firmly resting on the trailer. a quick snap of the wench cable and the wife will pull the boat out of the water centered on the trailer every time . I do not even have side rails on my trailer. Its just a matter of practice and team work. I recommend walkie talkies in the boat and truck while loading. much better then screaming. this method is quicker and easier then the way i see most ppeople do it. it can be done wrong, and often is. do not try and power up the last 10 feet of trailer , this is both bad for your boat and the launch
I have to disagree just a little here. For one thing, once the ThunderJets hit the north Oregon coast ramps, most of the marinas put signs up forbidding powering onto the trailer (or the back of the tow rig, as was too often the case!). Secondly, I really suck at hitting the middle!
I launched and retrieved my 22CD single handed 90% of the time, and do the same with the 25CD. To retrieve, I back the trailer deep enough to let me float the boat within 2' of the bow stop. Then I step up on the tongue, hook up the strap, and winch it home with very little effort. I usually have a dock next to the ramp I'm using, so I walk over to the side of the boat, put a hand towel folded four times between the side guide and the hull, and pull the boat tightly against it. If I have placed the trailer just right, the friction of the carpeted bunks holds the boat tight against the towel while I pull up the ramp. Done. Perfectly centered. B~C has even made some ingenious carpeted spacers to hang on the side guides. Me, I'm happy with the towel, which I don't even need to dry my feet because I have yet to get them wet.
Fred showed me with his 22CD how he doesn't even have to worry about centering it before pulling up the ramp. He knows just where to put his shoulder to scoot the rear of the hull over while sitting on dry land.
Les said something once to a gentleman who was reluctant to dip his trailer hubs in the water and preferred to use a power winch to drag the boat up. He said the wheel bearings cost 35 bucks every couple of years, but the little bitty eye on the bow is bolted through a $40,000 hull. Back it in and make it easy. To take that a little further, Bearing Buddies cost less than the bearings, and if they are properly used, the bearings will last even longer.
I launched and retrieved my 22CD single handed 90% of the time, and do the same with the 25CD. To retrieve, I back the trailer deep enough to let me float the boat within 2' of the bow stop. Then I step up on the tongue, hook up the strap, and winch it home with very little effort. I usually have a dock next to the ramp I'm using, so I walk over to the side of the boat, put a hand towel folded four times between the side guide and the hull, and pull the boat tightly against it. If I have placed the trailer just right, the friction of the carpeted bunks holds the boat tight against the towel while I pull up the ramp. Done. Perfectly centered. B~C has even made some ingenious carpeted spacers to hang on the side guides. Me, I'm happy with the towel, which I don't even need to dry my feet because I have yet to get them wet.
Fred showed me with his 22CD how he doesn't even have to worry about centering it before pulling up the ramp. He knows just where to put his shoulder to scoot the rear of the hull over while sitting on dry land.
Les said something once to a gentleman who was reluctant to dip his trailer hubs in the water and preferred to use a power winch to drag the boat up. He said the wheel bearings cost 35 bucks every couple of years, but the little bitty eye on the bow is bolted through a $40,000 hull. Back it in and make it easy. To take that a little further, Bearing Buddies cost less than the bearings, and if they are properly used, the bearings will last even longer.
Starcrafttom:
I understand what your saying. Some of my delima is a wife that refuses to learn to drive a manual shift truck. Getting her to back a trailer is just unheard-of... I was raised to never drive a boat on a trailer. Anyway I have to back the trailer, then drag the boat from the dock. When I push the boat out deep to get it started up the trailer, this is where I need control of the stern and I don't have it. Then there is the bunks on the used rig I bought that aren't adjusted quite right. When you winch the boat up tight the bow wants to pull to one side slightly. The carpet is worn on the bunk edges and needs replaced. The ramp that I use is too steep. Get the trailer in far enough to float the front half off and the trailer is several feet below the stern. And I am always hit by a 90 degree crosswind when loading. Soooo when loading the relatively flat bottom boat there is not much of the back 2/3rds of the hull to even keep the boat from drifting over a sharp trailer corner has I pull out of the water. When centered on the trailer the lower stern corners are just inches from the trailer frame. I have loaded many deep vee hulls and they seem to almost self center as you pull out of the water. I am more than confident that the side guides will allow me to load in any weather with MUCH less hassle.
I understand what your saying. Some of my delima is a wife that refuses to learn to drive a manual shift truck. Getting her to back a trailer is just unheard-of... I was raised to never drive a boat on a trailer. Anyway I have to back the trailer, then drag the boat from the dock. When I push the boat out deep to get it started up the trailer, this is where I need control of the stern and I don't have it. Then there is the bunks on the used rig I bought that aren't adjusted quite right. When you winch the boat up tight the bow wants to pull to one side slightly. The carpet is worn on the bunk edges and needs replaced. The ramp that I use is too steep. Get the trailer in far enough to float the front half off and the trailer is several feet below the stern. And I am always hit by a 90 degree crosswind when loading. Soooo when loading the relatively flat bottom boat there is not much of the back 2/3rds of the hull to even keep the boat from drifting over a sharp trailer corner has I pull out of the water. When centered on the trailer the lower stern corners are just inches from the trailer frame. I have loaded many deep vee hulls and they seem to almost self center as you pull out of the water. I am more than confident that the side guides will allow me to load in any weather with MUCH less hassle.
C-Weed
I took my wife to an empty parking lot with the boat in tow and let her gain some confidence with backing the rig up. It take a lot of time and patience, but it can be done. Go slow. At some point in time, she may have to do that without your assistance.
Bill
PS - She can also be a lot of help centering the boat with a boat pole or rope attached to the stern. The problem is like you say, with a nearly flat bottom. With side boards, that boat will still twist between the rails. If you have the distance between bunks to put a wide keel roller, it would be ideal as it would capture the keel as it was being winched onto the trailer and keep the boat straight.
I took my wife to an empty parking lot with the boat in tow and let her gain some confidence with backing the rig up. It take a lot of time and patience, but it can be done. Go slow. At some point in time, she may have to do that without your assistance.
Bill
PS - She can also be a lot of help centering the boat with a boat pole or rope attached to the stern. The problem is like you say, with a nearly flat bottom. With side boards, that boat will still twist between the rails. If you have the distance between bunks to put a wide keel roller, it would be ideal as it would capture the keel as it was being winched onto the trailer and keep the boat straight.
starcrafttom
Active member
c-bill is that a yamaha 2 stroke on lake tahoe?? . we live in washington but we are from placerville. never toke my boat to tahoe becouse of the ban, is it a don't ask don't tell thing?????
Those pictures were taken before the ban. I still have the same motor and I like it and I'm stubborn. I've heard the samething about the "Don't ask, don't tell." I quit fishing when the ban became effective. The fine can be very expensive!!! I'm still very ticked off at Steve Wynn (Mirage Casino, LV). As you have probably heard, it all started over the personal watercraft running up and down the lake adjacent to his then owned property (He no longer has property at Tahoe).
As soon as he started complaining about the noise from the PWC, I knew my days were numbered. I had high altitude jets and was not the polluter that many of the boats from near sea-level are that are brought up from down below, including inboards that still operate on the lake.
I did have many enjoyable days on the lake before I was banned.
Bill :evil:
As soon as he started complaining about the noise from the PWC, I knew my days were numbered. I had high altitude jets and was not the polluter that many of the boats from near sea-level are that are brought up from down below, including inboards that still operate on the lake.
I did have many enjoyable days on the lake before I was banned.
Bill :evil:
starcrafttom
Active member
be warmed by the fact that when 4-stroke jet skis came out and were allowed on tahoe, many people made it a piont to circle in front of his house... in the morning...every day...till he moved.
Tom,
Thanks! :lol: I may consider a four stroke one of these days, but not yet. I really enjoy fishing the ocean and I'm very concerned with weight back near the transom. I've been on the ocean in some nasty conditions. My boat does a good job of handling it in the present configuration. The 22ft Cruiser was designed for 14 knots and the hull design will perform well with the proper distribution of weight. Here is a good picture of my boat from the rear. Picture taken by Sea Wolf Oct 9, 04 at Lake Shasta.
Bill
Thanks! :lol: I may consider a four stroke one of these days, but not yet. I really enjoy fishing the ocean and I'm very concerned with weight back near the transom. I've been on the ocean in some nasty conditions. My boat does a good job of handling it in the present configuration. The 22ft Cruiser was designed for 14 knots and the hull design will perform well with the proper distribution of weight. Here is a good picture of my boat from the rear. Picture taken by Sea Wolf Oct 9, 04 at Lake Shasta.
Bill
Otter-BelleHavenMarina
Moderator
Am not sure what the concern is about driving the boat onto the trailer. For me, the key is positioning the trailer just right: forward bunks just peeking out of the water at the front. Then I go to the boat, start her up, and slowly advance on the trailer until the bow slides in between the forward bunks and comes to a stop. Goose the throttle just a bit to slide forward on the bunks a few inches, turn off the engine, and raise the motor. The bow ring will still usually be about a foot to 18 inches away from the bow stop. Attach the cable and crank her up the rest of the way, nice and centered, no trailer guides necessary.
Believe me, it took me a while to get this right, but I just got sick of having the boat drift to one side or the other other over one of the wheels.
Believe me, it took me a while to get this right, but I just got sick of having the boat drift to one side or the other other over one of the wheels.
Rick from Maine
New member
I usually trailer single handed, even if there is someone with me. I frequently know what I'm gonna do, but often don't know what a friend will do. So, Do it yourself is best.
The Fulton Pole guides at the back of the trailer are strong enough to keep the boat almost centered, even in strong cross winds. After pulling the boat out, I can center the boat on the trailer using a 3 foot long wrecking bar against a wood block at the hull. Then I'm perfectly centered, so the hull won't hit fenders or bolts. All it takes is a 3 ft bar to wedge the hull on wet bunks.
Rick from Maine
The Fulton Pole guides at the back of the trailer are strong enough to keep the boat almost centered, even in strong cross winds. After pulling the boat out, I can center the boat on the trailer using a 3 foot long wrecking bar against a wood block at the hull. Then I'm perfectly centered, so the hull won't hit fenders or bolts. All it takes is a 3 ft bar to wedge the hull on wet bunks.
Rick from Maine
starcrafttom
Active member
c-bill the wife dont miss the californa life at all , execpt the weekends at cables lake over on highway 88 and vahalla fair at camp richerson. the macks at the lake are great in the spring.
How do you folks who power launch and retrieve by yourselves* get up or down from the trailer to the bow and vis-a-vis? Do you step onto the spare tire as an intermediary step? Does anyone have a ladder built into the trailer tongue?
*With two people, there'so problem, one in the boat, one in the tow vehicle.
Does anyone have a hinged ladder built onto or into the bow pulpit that can be used to get down to the trailer or onto shore when beaching?
If I were 18 again, I could jump up onto the boat easily. At 25-45 , it would be no problem to swing up throwing a hip onto the boat and using the bow pulpit as a leverage point to go up or down as needed. From 45-60 or so, two hips and two hands between the first and second bow pulpit struts now allow me to struggle up. Looking forward, (I guess that's the term), at 70, I'm maybe going to need an elevator! (Yet another reason to find a place for a 2 kw generator onboard!)
I seem to remember talking to Yellowstone John at Shasta Lake in 2001 when he said he had devised a muli-purpose ramp for similar purposes. Anyone familiar with this concept? Where do you store such a ramp conveniently?
I know I can always get on and off the boat at docks, marinas, etc., but don't really want to be limited to boarding and deboarding at such locations. There are too many good places to visit out there where those kind of facilities don't exist. Anyone have a solution?
*With two people, there'so problem, one in the boat, one in the tow vehicle.
Does anyone have a hinged ladder built onto or into the bow pulpit that can be used to get down to the trailer or onto shore when beaching?
If I were 18 again, I could jump up onto the boat easily. At 25-45 , it would be no problem to swing up throwing a hip onto the boat and using the bow pulpit as a leverage point to go up or down as needed. From 45-60 or so, two hips and two hands between the first and second bow pulpit struts now allow me to struggle up. Looking forward, (I guess that's the term), at 70, I'm maybe going to need an elevator! (Yet another reason to find a place for a 2 kw generator onboard!)
I seem to remember talking to Yellowstone John at Shasta Lake in 2001 when he said he had devised a muli-purpose ramp for similar purposes. Anyone familiar with this concept? Where do you store such a ramp conveniently?
I know I can always get on and off the boat at docks, marinas, etc., but don't really want to be limited to boarding and deboarding at such locations. There are too many good places to visit out there where those kind of facilities don't exist. Anyone have a solution?
Sea Wolf":15e9jc5p said:
Joe, from what I remember, John had built a "gang plank" that was multi-purpose. When it was used as a "gang plank" he somehow secured it to the bow and perhaps was also able to secure it to the stern. For storage, I believe he used it as a "sitting bench" in the cockpit next to the transom. I know that he had pictures of it in a photo album he had, but I don't recall that he ever posted any photos of it on the C-Dog or C-Brat site.
Joe,
If you look in the Far West II photo album, there is one picture that shows his gangplank. If you look closely, you can see the gangplank with gray colored non-slip material on the plank that forms a bench seat in the "storage" position. Behind it you can see the wooden back rest that he constructed as well.
If you look in the Far West II photo album, there is one picture that shows his gangplank. If you look closely, you can see the gangplank with gray colored non-slip material on the plank that forms a bench seat in the "storage" position. Behind it you can see the wooden back rest that he constructed as well.