I had a problem retrieving my C-Dory 25 at the ramp on my Float-On trailer. When an inexperienced helper was with me I could never seem to explain for them to move the boat to the middle of the trailer when coming out of the water. One time my boat came down on the carpeted fender board and broke it. I had to repair the wood and reattach the carpet. I have heard of other C-Brats having similar experiences.
After much thought and study I finally invented a successful C-Dory centering system for my Float-On trailer. This is not a complete set of plans for building, but only an idea of what works for me. I have included pictures and a parts list. I bought the aluminum from the Metals Supermarket (you might try McMaster-Carr in Atlanta, GA also). I bought the stainless bolts from a local hardware. I bought the thermo-plasticized trailer rollers from West Marine.
All Parts
Main Parts
When retrieving my C-Dory I set the rollers (port and starboard) to the IN position (the inward bolt stop) before backing down the boat ramp. The boat is floating and the Float-On trailer is lower in the water below the boat. I winch the boat forward to the bow chock and install the safety chain. When I drive up the ramp the trailer moves up to pick up the boat. Only vertical movement of the trailer is done. The rollers simply guide the boat to the center of the trailer.
IN Retrieve
After the boat is out of the water I set the rollers to the OUT position (the outward bolt stop) by pulling on the eye bolt to change the setting. While towing the reason I set the rollers OUT so the rollers do not rub on the boat.
OUT Travel
I installed this system at the very back end of the trailer just forward of the rear stop lights and license plate.
Aft View
I chose the five inch thermo-plasticized trailer rollers because they do not leave black marks on the boat. The total cost for this project came to just under $250.00. With some minor tuning it allows the trailer to almost center the boat and the boat never touches the fender boards. I can now retrieve my C-Dory single handed if necessary.
Trailer Roller Parts List
1 piece 1" x 3" x 8.5' - 1/4" thick channel aluminum
2 pieces 1" x 4" x 22" - 1/4" thick channel aluminum
2 pieces 1" x 3" x 10" - 1/4" thick channel aluminum
2 pieces 1" x 2" x 10" - 1/8" thick channel aluminum
2 pieces 1" x 3" round aluminum tube with 1/2" center hole
2 each 5" thermo-plasticized trailer rollers
2 each 3" x 3-1/2" misc. plastic sheet for shims
Stainless Hardware
2 pieces 1/2" x 5" bolts with Nylock nuts
4 pieces 7/8" x 5" bolts with Nylock nuts
4 pieces 7/8" x 4" bolts with Nylock nuts
4 pieces 3/8" x 1-1/2" bolts with Nylock nuts
4 pieces 3/8" x 1" bolts with Nylock nuts
2 pieces 1/4" x 1" eye bolts with 2 nuts each
Misc
2 bungee cords (to hold the device in position)
Shop tools needed
Drill Press
Bits and End Mills
Band Saw
Sander
Wrenches
Hope this helps you if you have a retrieving problem. :lol:
After much thought and study I finally invented a successful C-Dory centering system for my Float-On trailer. This is not a complete set of plans for building, but only an idea of what works for me. I have included pictures and a parts list. I bought the aluminum from the Metals Supermarket (you might try McMaster-Carr in Atlanta, GA also). I bought the stainless bolts from a local hardware. I bought the thermo-plasticized trailer rollers from West Marine.
All Parts
Main Parts
When retrieving my C-Dory I set the rollers (port and starboard) to the IN position (the inward bolt stop) before backing down the boat ramp. The boat is floating and the Float-On trailer is lower in the water below the boat. I winch the boat forward to the bow chock and install the safety chain. When I drive up the ramp the trailer moves up to pick up the boat. Only vertical movement of the trailer is done. The rollers simply guide the boat to the center of the trailer.
IN Retrieve
After the boat is out of the water I set the rollers to the OUT position (the outward bolt stop) by pulling on the eye bolt to change the setting. While towing the reason I set the rollers OUT so the rollers do not rub on the boat.
OUT Travel
I installed this system at the very back end of the trailer just forward of the rear stop lights and license plate.
Aft View
I chose the five inch thermo-plasticized trailer rollers because they do not leave black marks on the boat. The total cost for this project came to just under $250.00. With some minor tuning it allows the trailer to almost center the boat and the boat never touches the fender boards. I can now retrieve my C-Dory single handed if necessary.
Trailer Roller Parts List
1 piece 1" x 3" x 8.5' - 1/4" thick channel aluminum
2 pieces 1" x 4" x 22" - 1/4" thick channel aluminum
2 pieces 1" x 3" x 10" - 1/4" thick channel aluminum
2 pieces 1" x 2" x 10" - 1/8" thick channel aluminum
2 pieces 1" x 3" round aluminum tube with 1/2" center hole
2 each 5" thermo-plasticized trailer rollers
2 each 3" x 3-1/2" misc. plastic sheet for shims
Stainless Hardware
2 pieces 1/2" x 5" bolts with Nylock nuts
4 pieces 7/8" x 5" bolts with Nylock nuts
4 pieces 7/8" x 4" bolts with Nylock nuts
4 pieces 3/8" x 1-1/2" bolts with Nylock nuts
4 pieces 3/8" x 1" bolts with Nylock nuts
2 pieces 1/4" x 1" eye bolts with 2 nuts each
Misc
2 bungee cords (to hold the device in position)
Shop tools needed
Drill Press
Bits and End Mills
Band Saw
Sander
Wrenches
Hope this helps you if you have a retrieving problem. :lol:
