Trailer Bunk Height Adjustment
- Thread starter hardee
- Start date
I just got back from doing some measuring, ... again.
Thanks again Bob. Lowering 2" will fit all the way around. I will need to adjust the side bunks and the brackets that hold them. The aft brackets are exactly 2" below the chine, so they will need to be moved. Easy.
Lowering the boat 2" will move the boat back, (aft on the trailer) about 1 1/2" due to the curve on the stem, unless I move the winch post, which has about 1/4" room. Moving the boat back on the trailer will put the transom about 1 1/2" past the end of the bunks. I will probably have to move the bunks aft due to having to dig out the bolts to undo from the risers so that should work OK too.
Thanks for following along and the feedback. Much appreciated.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Thanks again Bob. Lowering 2" will fit all the way around. I will need to adjust the side bunks and the brackets that hold them. The aft brackets are exactly 2" below the chine, so they will need to be moved. Easy.
Lowering the boat 2" will move the boat back, (aft on the trailer) about 1 1/2" due to the curve on the stem, unless I move the winch post, which has about 1/4" room. Moving the boat back on the trailer will put the transom about 1 1/2" past the end of the bunks. I will probably have to move the bunks aft due to having to dig out the bolts to undo from the risers so that should work OK too.
Thanks for following along and the feedback. Much appreciated.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Marco Flamingo
Active member
Looking at the trailer pictures, I don't think that you need to buy new risers. The old ones look perfectly good except for the length. What I would do is use a metal cutoff saw to shorten the originals and a drill press to make new holes on the shortened pieces for the swivel top piece. Easy for me to say because I have access to that stuff. Pulling them off and taking them to a machine shop (pre-arranged to save time), I would guess it will cost 1/10th of buying new.
And that way you could shorten the risers by 1.5 inches, 2.25 inches, whatever is best. It looks like you could go more than 2 inches, but you'll have to measure carefully.
An air wrench sure makes trailer work easier and way faster. Maybe your local grease monkey/mechanic will have that as well. Have the raw cuts/holes sprayed with galvanizing paint ($6 at Home Depot if the shop doesn't have any).
I'd get a bid before ordering new ones.
And that way you could shorten the risers by 1.5 inches, 2.25 inches, whatever is best. It looks like you could go more than 2 inches, but you'll have to measure carefully.
An air wrench sure makes trailer work easier and way faster. Maybe your local grease monkey/mechanic will have that as well. Have the raw cuts/holes sprayed with galvanizing paint ($6 at Home Depot if the shop doesn't have any).
I'd get a bid before ordering new ones.
Marco said:
FYI Marco, I'm heading to your place to see your metal fab shop. :wink:
I drew out the "Bent top risers" and took the drawing to 2 different shops in the area. $240 at one and $300 at the other. It would take 2 cuts on each bracket, and 2ea 9/16" holes drilled. I would do the galvanize paint and supply the Bolts, washers and nuts. There are 12 brackets to do. Total 240 - 300 plus the paint and hardware.
The new ones from Pacific will be $30 each. Total $360.
Harvey
SleepyC:moon
FYI Marco, I'm heading to your place to see your metal fab shop. :wink:
I drew out the "Bent top risers" and took the drawing to 2 different shops in the area. $240 at one and $300 at the other. It would take 2 cuts on each bracket, and 2ea 9/16" holes drilled. I would do the galvanize paint and supply the Bolts, washers and nuts. There are 12 brackets to do. Total 240 - 300 plus the paint and hardware.
The new ones from Pacific will be $30 each. Total $360.
Harvey
SleepyC:moon
The "Bent top Risers - custom" are on the way. 2" shorter. From Hector at Pacific Trailer in Chino.
There will be some adjustment in the bunk position by an inch or so for the bolt holes IF the old bolts have to be cut out. I will post some follow-up as the job is completed.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
There will be some adjustment in the bunk position by an inch or so for the bolt holes IF the old bolts have to be cut out. I will post some follow-up as the job is completed.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
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I have a similar but opposite problem- the 25 Cruiser sits too low in the trailer and is very tight between the fenders. Seems like a good way to scratch up the hull!
Trailer is a E-Z TEZ102B with (I think) 80" between the fenders.
Do I just need to adjust the bunks up a few inches?
My 25 sat the same way--it will ride better if low, and be easier to launch. You can glue some carpet to the fender if worried about scratching--but mine never did.
One of the C Brats, had rollers on the side of the trailer at the chine, to be sure the boat was fully centered. If I have time later, I'll try and find that thread. I believe he has sold his boat.
One of the C Brats, had rollers on the side of the trailer at the chine, to be sure the boat was fully centered. If I have time later, I'll try and find that thread. I believe he has sold his boat.
That is an interesting bunk system. You could actually raise them if you wanted to. As long as the hull will not contact the wheel fenders, probably no need to, but if you decided to, it would be easy (with the boat off the trailer, of course.)
Raising even a half inch, or 3/4" could make a difference, but as Bob said, it will also make a difference in how far back into the water you have to get to float the boat off.
If I were raising on your trailer, I would probably unload the boat, raise everything exactly 3/4" AND THEN shim or block so there was no chance of the boat wight working the riser down as you travel.
Raising the boat will allow it to move forward on the bow stop, slightly. Be sure and include that in your plan.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Raising even a half inch, or 3/4" could make a difference, but as Bob said, it will also make a difference in how far back into the water you have to get to float the boat off.
If I were raising on your trailer, I would probably unload the boat, raise everything exactly 3/4" AND THEN shim or block so there was no chance of the boat wight working the riser down as you travel.
Raising the boat will allow it to move forward on the bow stop, slightly. Be sure and include that in your plan.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Some follow-up. The bunk lowering has worked great. I did move the bunks back about an inch for new holes, and did the 90* bend on the tops of the bunk bolts so they could be removed, if it is ever needed. Also, for the bracket mounting bolts I use a very liberal dose of lanolin everywhere before putting them together and tightening. That has worked well, still not rust on those. The boat is easier to get into from the fenders: step up on the end of the fender, then to the top an swing a leg over. It seems to tow better, and the launching has been much dryer for the truck.
I just got the boat back from bottom paint. (Didn't get that done while I was working on the trailer.) Now I am wondering if the Teflon slides have a more deleterious affect on the bottom paint than sliding on the carpet?
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
I just got the boat back from bottom paint. (Didn't get that done while I was working on the trailer.) Now I am wondering if the Teflon slides have a more deleterious affect on the bottom paint than sliding on the carpet?
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Thank you Bob. I have had some scrape marks from those target bunks before and on my previous rebuild I took out a fair amount material, (wood) off the inside corners to decrease that. It helped, but didn't take it all away, that is part of the reason why I did the lowering.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Harvey
SleepyC :moon