Trailer Equipment Must-Haves

J

Jazzmanic

New member
For our big trip this summer, Caryn and I will be trailering to the West Coast of Vancouver Island via the Tsawwassen Ferry to Nanaimo and driving down the windy road from Port Alberni to Ucluelet. The total driving distance is approximately 600-800 miles. We have a tandem axle King Trailer (KBT4000) with disc brakes which we have used on small trips but nothing major.

My question, what do you consider must-have equipment for the trailer for a trip like ours? I'm planning on checking the tires and wheel bearings before we leave to be sure they're well greased. I will be mounting an extra tire on the trailer. Would a vehicle jack work for our trailer? I have some cheap plastic wheel chocks . What else would you bring for such a trip?
 
I would repack the wheel bearings. Every two hours check the temp either by hand, or with an cheap IR thermometer--I use a Radio Shack $29 unit to check both tires and bearing temp (brakes if having done a long grade).

If the tires are over 6 years old--replace. Tire rot, not tread wear is the danger.

I use a sissor jack (or car four wheel dolly jack)--you may be able to use a bottle jack, but then you are lifting the entire frame if you have leaf springs..

Have blocks and chocks for the tires (I carry a couple of 4 x 4's, 2 x 6's and chocks).

Extra bearing lube. Check the tail lights and connectors--have spare bulbs.

Be sure and have a tie down for the rear of the boat--best a chain and turnbuckle for the bow eye. Consider a transom saver for the motor--this supports the lower leg, if you have to trailer with the motor up(which puts more load on the transom than motor down).

I would also check the surge brakes, and coupling before leaving.

I personally also carry a spare set of bearings and hub(never had to use them--if leaf springs, consider an extra set of springs).

Flares, reflectors etc for emergency if you have to pull onto a narrow shoulder.

Enjoy the trip. We trailered the C Dory 22 about 2500 miles each summer with no problems--they are great boats for trailering!
 
Peter, I've driven that route from Port Alberni to Ucluelet/Tofino a dozen times, and it does not get any easier as the years go by! It is lovely, but twisty and windy, for sure! Definitely check the bearing temps, particularly when you get to the steep sections west of Alberni. I always go slow over that section, trailer or not. In some ways, it is tempting to put in at Port Alberni and run down the inlet to Ucluelet. At least then you have some scenery to look at while "driving!"
 
As usual Bob Austin said it all. If you have room to carry it a floor jack works really well. Like Bob says take plenty if 2X4 and 4X6 blocks along.

Being well prepared usually stops a problem while it is a small problem.

Fred, Pat and Mr Grey(the cat)
 
Incidently, each tire has an 11 or 12 digit number stamped on its sidewall at time of manufacture (after 2000--before 2000, it was 3 digits). The first digits have to do with manufactuer, rating etc--the last four digits the date of manufacture:
The last two are the year (04=2004). The previous two are the week of the year 1-52. For example 11 would be the 2nd week in march.
This tire would be stamped: XXXXXXXX1104.

There is a lot of other information on tires, including the molded in material--such as pressure, temp range, max rated speed, index wear etc. "ST" (special trailer) are trailer tires--and have stiffer sidewalls than passanger car tires--in an earlier post, it was noted that there was sidewall scuff in turning a trailer--This is perticularly hard on car tires which have relitatively thin and flexiable side walls and thus are not suitable for trailers. I'll have to admit to having owned a trailer which already had car radial tires on it, and it ran satisfactorilly, but the load was light for the size of trailer.

Oh yes, take a lug wrench--I forgot to mention this. I carry an air compressor in my RV, along with an impact wrench. I also carry a torque wrench with sockets to fit the trailer lug nuts as well as the RV lug nuts. (I have to have help changing the RV tires, but at least I have the proper equiptment available). Start torquing to 12 to 20 ft lbs, and finish with 70 to 80 ft lbs (use a cross tightening sequence --like 1/3/5/2/4).
 
Before I got all my stuff together I took it out and tried it on the boat. I made sure the lug wrench fit, that I had the right blocks to jack up the trailer and I knew where to put the jack.

Another thing I take is smaller blocks to fit between the brake calipers. If I have to use the extra hub that does not have a rotor on it I can insert the blodk between the caipers and tape the whole thing on the frame until I can get some where to make better repairs.

Steve
 
Thanks for all the great info guys. I appreciate all your input, it's all very valuable for an inexperienced trailer jockey like me but I agree with teflonmom;
teflonmom":1vtdsfz5 said:
As usual Bob Austin said it all.
Click to expand...
It looks like I'm going to have to start getting ready now for a trip that starts on August 2nd! :wink

AstoriaDave, my first thought was to drive to Port Alberni and cruise down the inlet rather than driving that windy road down to Ucluelet. Caryn and I drove her Prius down to Ucluelet and Tofino 3 years ago and I thought then that I didn't envy any RV or Boat drivers going up and down that route. But I was convinced by Ken of Cavu and Lyle of Bess-C that it was doable, just go slow. So that's what we've decided to do.

We'll let y'all know how it turns out mid-August. We're hoping for lots of big Salmon and beautiful pics of the Broken Group.
 
Geez, Bob - I'm glad you stopped where you did, one sentence short of rcommending Peter take a complete spare trailer! Peter - you also might consider a boatload of cash and the phone number for roadside assistance!
thataway":2c00s5dj said:
I would repack the wheel bearings. Every two hours check the temp either by hand, or with an cheap IR thermometer--I use a Radio Shack $29 unit to check both tires and bearing temp (brakes if having done a long grade).

If the tires are over 6 years old--replace. Tire rot, not tread wear is the danger.

I use a sissor jack (or car four wheel dolly jack)--you may be able to use a bottle jack, but then you are lifting the entire frame if you have leaf springs..

Have blocks and chocks for the tires (I carry a couple of 4 x 4's, 2 x 6's and chocks).

Extra bearing lube. Check the tail lights and connectors--have spare bulbs.

Be sure and have a tie down for the rear of the boat--best a chain and turnbuckle for the bow eye. Consider a transom saver for the motor--this supports the lower leg, if you have to trailer with the motor up(which puts more load on the transom than motor down).

I would also check the surge brakes, and coupling before leaving.

I personally also carry a spare set of bearings and hub(never had to use them--if leaf springs, consider an extra set of springs).

Flares, reflectors etc for emergency if you have to pull onto a narrow shoulder.

Enjoy the trip. We trailered the C Dory 22 about 2500 miles each summer with no problems--they are great boats for trailering!
Click to expand...
 
Peter
After pulling the Hunky Dory from Montana to Florida and back about 16 times.( 3000 one way) Mexico to Alaska, Probably a total of 60 to 70,000 miles not counting prior owned boats, one thing I would add to all the other great comments made to you so far. Is stop and check the nuts and bolts of the trailer from time to time. CARRY A FEW EXTRA BOLTS SIZED TO WHAT YOU WILL NEED IN CASE OF ONE FALLING OUT. Happened to us about three time and having no bolts to replace them the 1st time. (now what?) I carry a hydraulic jack plus a punch bar to line up holes to put the bolts back in. ( If you have any).Sometimes it was necessary to jack the member part of the trailer into place to do that. I carried the spare on an extra hub. Have all wrenches (including one big knuckle buster) for the different sizes nuts and bolts plus breaker bar for the lug nuts.
Last trip to Florida cost us about $500 to haul the boat on a wrecker into the closest town for needed repairs cause I forgot some of my own rules.

Now puling the Ranger Tug I carry road side assistance insurance.
Captd.
 
a couple of these never hurt:




Triangle_Reflector.jpg
 
I have had the rubber/plastic caps on my bearing buddy hubs go missing from time to time. I spent a few extra bucks to keep a couple of spares in my trailer kit. They will keep the grime out of the grease for you.
Pat
 
Pat, if you think that list is long, you should see my list of spares of ocean crossings--some have accused me of towing a barge, or "shadow vessel". Actually it is amazing how little space spares, essentials take. I used to carry everything I needed for medical emergencies in a large fanny pack, when I was director of athletic medicine and traveling with ball teams--and the list sounded like you needed a truck.....
 
C-Dancer,
To keep all the trailer gear organized and readily available I use a plastic storage bin. The jack, spare hub, spare bearings, races,grease gun, grease cartridges, grease tub, torque wrench, socket wrench, etc, etc. all fit into the bin. The bin can be moved in and out of the tow vehicle as needed and there is never a question as to the location of trailer gear. I toss 2- 2"x8" x6' lengths of LVL into the bed as added insurance. Once all that stuff is loaded and the trailer is checked out, I feel confident of handling most of what may come my way. Nothin left but to enjoy the trip.
Mike 'Levity'
 
A few more things worth consideration.

Preparation is key to tire trouble being just a momentary unscheduled delay.

Always run trailer tires at max air pressure. Buy a good accurate needle or digital gauge for made for high pressure. Don't forget to check spares in your tow vehicle as well. Most space saver spare tires in cars (the ones that should have 60 PSI in them)? They are almost always flat...

Check the nuts that hold the spare to the trailer. Chances are these are not the same size as the lug nuts on the rims. Make sure a tool is available for these. I too have all the stuff for road side service in a plastic bin. (Heavy bin) :thup WD-40 is handy for the lug nuts on the spare as is moist towlets or hand cleaner and papertowels after repairs are made. If your spare is locked to the trailer as it should be, ensure you have the key available and lube the lock and check it for operation so it will unlock when needed.

I always carry a bottle jack. Ensure jack is of sufficient capacity (both in LBS. and total jacking height) to lift the boat plus all the gear inside. Ensure it will fit under the trailer AFTER the tire is flat. Usually the best position is under the axle. If this is not possible then the frame. A 1/4 inch ply board is handy here to put between jack and trailer to prevent small round jack head from dimpling axle.

A slight benefit to torsion axles over leaf springs: When you can't get the jack under the axle and must use the frame. You can place the jack much closer to the axle with torsion suspension than leaf springs.

The trailer drops considerably when a tire is flat. Now consider you are on a two lane road. The only place is off the shoulder and the flat is on the right side. This can bring the trailer even lower to the ground making it harder to get a jack under.

Another benefit of tandem axles: You can use a few of your blocks of wood to either pull forward or backward up on the block with the good tire. This usually will pick up the flat enough to get the jack under and most times change it without any jack at all. Just loosen ther lugs on the flat slightly and stair step the blocks so the good tire can easily climb the wood without damage. Also carry an 8 x 8" piece of 1/4 plywood. This goes under the jack to keep it from sinking in soft hot asphalt or soil.

My used rig came with some extra tires (from the last guy's tire troubles)so now I have three spare tires. One mounted to the trailer and two loose ones. I don't go very far down the road with out at least two spare tires available for a four tire trailer. If you are humming along and one tire goes on a four tire trailer? Unless you see rubber flying in your side mirror or hear it pop chances are good you may not even know you just lost a tire. So, the other good tire on that side just has to start carrying twice the load. Now the chances of that tire getting tired, hot and damaged go up with every mile driven.

Most chuck holes, curbs, road damage, rough pavement and drivin off the pavement edge usually causes the right side trailer tires to lead a harder life than the same tires on the drivers side. If you have a tire failure take note of which side. When you are checking the tire and hub temperatures take a good look at the tires. Allmost always the tire will have a bulge in the side-wall and or the tread will be split open before it self destructs flying down the highway. I have only had one failure at speed an it was a tire I was just wearing down on a local 150 mile run. All other tire changes, and there have been many, were all in a parking lot somwhere with a swollen or split (MAY POP) tire. She MAY POP at anytime, that was found in time.
 
captd
While hauling your boat home from Florida I tried to do a walk around check of everything about every 100 miles. Some where in Virginia I found the front left pivot bolt for the front roller system gone.front of the boat hanging on the roller & winch strap. I had plenty of blocking, tools and used the pickup jack to get the yoke back in place. after asking a few truckers if they had any extra 5/8" bolts, I gave up and used the screw driver type end on my x lug wrench for a pin. a few feet of bailing wire held the wrench in place.I had some security type cables with padlocks along so I tied both sides snugly because I figured the opposite side had taken a serious strain.
Made it home and changed all the pivot bolts to gr.8 coated. I had this same trouble one time with my small boat trailer so now there are spare bolts,nuts & washers put thru the empty holes in the frame.
Electrical tape, duct tape and bailing wire always on hand
 
C-Dancer,
One small thing I always have in my toolbox is a small tarp. One of those cheap plastic 5x7 jobs you can pick up almost anywhere. If you have a problem it will not happen at a nice clean paved parking lot. Almost sure to be raining and muddy along the side of the road and the tarp is nice to put down to lay on while positioning the jack and removing the tire.
 
Made it home and changed all the pivot bolts to gr.8 coated. I had this same trouble one time with my small boat trailer so now there are spare bolts,nuts & washers put thru the empty holes in the frame.
Electrical tape, duct tape and bailing wire always on hand
_________________
RCHINPA
Yup, I learned the hard way too! What a good idea to carry the extra bolts that way. I AM GOING TO DO IT. Necessity is the mother of invention. Huh?

Bill & Ell,
Amen, amen, Iam going to do that too.
Captd
 
King Trailiers are notorious for going through brake pads. You will want to be sure you have excellent pad width before taking on a steep grade.
 
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