cmetzenberg
New member
the argument to put on removable brake lights is a powerful one.
Trailer rant!
- Thread starter MikeR
- Start date
I wanted to do removable tail/brake/turn lights. Perhaps a bar or etc. However, I found it to be a bit tricky due to the engines. The logical places to put a bar would either be too far forward (i.e. too much engine/boat aft of lights) or the engines would get in the way. That's not to say something couldn't be figured out, but nothing simple came to mind when noodling it (such as across the aft cleats, etc. would have been). So I went with the following:
1) All sealed LED lights (original locations)
2) LED red (rear) yellow (front) combination lights on top of guide on poles (to be installed once poles arrive from back order).
3) Ancor tinned/sheathed trailer wire with full separate ground wire (to be installed, although my "run of the mill" wire is still working fine at the moment).
We'll see how the LED lights hold up to submersion. So far so good, and they look a heck of a lot better sealed then the old incandescents (plus are very bright).
1) All sealed LED lights (original locations)
2) LED red (rear) yellow (front) combination lights on top of guide on poles (to be installed once poles arrive from back order).
3) Ancor tinned/sheathed trailer wire with full separate ground wire (to be installed, although my "run of the mill" wire is still working fine at the moment).
We'll see how the LED lights hold up to submersion. So far so good, and they look a heck of a lot better sealed then the old incandescents (plus are very bright).
My LEDs on the 2007 (I think- can't check right now) Pacific tandem are still working fine. I had to replace the 3-bar and could not get an LED at the time. The incan...s messed up after the first dunking, even though unplugged and cooled before going into the water. The LED bar is waiting for install. The LEDs should last forever if they and the wiring is properly sealed.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
I still have a 8 1/2 foot wide detachable trailer light bar, which we had for the 25. This was made out of 1.5" PVC pipe, and a LED light on each side. We just added a 4 prong plug to the Starboard trailer lighting (had to run the left turn/brake wire to the Starboard side, as well as tap into the trailer wiring on the Starboard side.
We soldered, and splinted each connector, covered each splice with adhesive heat shrink, and then a larger piece over the entire splice. We use a separate ground wire to each light, rather than depend on the trailer frame for ground. I found the trailer ground unsatisfactory many years ago.
I plan to use this lashed between the two stand offs. In this trailer, the square tubing extends all of the way up to the top of the PVC pipe, and the pipe rotates freely, acting as a roller, so I am reluctant to put a permeant light on top of the standoffs. It only takes a minute to connect the light bar, and gives far better visibility to the trailer lights, as a supplement to the frame lights.
I also gave up on incandescent trailer lights several years ago--the sealed LED are so much better, less power, waterproof, and brighter.
We soldered, and splinted each connector, covered each splice with adhesive heat shrink, and then a larger piece over the entire splice. We use a separate ground wire to each light, rather than depend on the trailer frame for ground. I found the trailer ground unsatisfactory many years ago.
I plan to use this lashed between the two stand offs. In this trailer, the square tubing extends all of the way up to the top of the PVC pipe, and the pipe rotates freely, acting as a roller, so I am reluctant to put a permeant light on top of the standoffs. It only takes a minute to connect the light bar, and gives far better visibility to the trailer lights, as a supplement to the frame lights.
I also gave up on incandescent trailer lights several years ago--the sealed LED are so much better, less power, waterproof, and brighter.
thataway":3k2jh046 said:
How did you attach this to the trailer or boat? I'm not in as "dire" need of one now that I have the LED trailer lights, but I still like the idea. However I found that all the logical attachment points on the boat (aft cleats, etc.) were not usable because the engine(s) were in the way of something running across. Anything forward of that on the boat left too much hanging out aft (more than legal distance), and aft of that there isn't anything (boat or trailer).
Maybe your trailer had something back there to attach to, or it was just different, but I figured I'd ask because I always find ideas here that I had not thought of :thup
(I did see where someone had attached a light bar to the Permatrims on twin engines, but I only have the one Permatrim on my main engine. I have thought about just putting a center light on the Permatrim, as an auxilliary "see me" aid - at the moment I just have red reflective tape on the leg of the main engine.)
Wood Zeppelin
New member
Does anyone have experience with these? I saw a Cdory for sale in Florida with an Alum trailer. Now, this would not solve light problems*, nor bearing problems (although they do come with Stainless Steel spindles!) but otherwise seems like a great idea.
* I love the idea of moving lights up to higher location so they never go in the water, probably provides better visibility as well!
http://www.magictilt.com/trailers/aluminum
* I love the idea of moving lights up to higher location so they never go in the water, probably provides better visibility as well!
http://www.magictilt.com/trailers/aluminum
I have one. It came with my boat and is a tandem CA series. The guy who owned it before me didn't do any maintenance on the trailer so the calipers were all rusted up. The brakes didn't work when I bought the boat and hadn't worked for awhile. The guy who owned it said he never noticed that they weren't working. I replaced the calipers (took two days to get all of them off), polished the rotors, and replaced the coupler and master cylinder.
The lights are all LED and haven't given me any problems. The only issue that I see as a design problem is that the license plate holder was originally plastic. I lost my license plate on a highway somewhere. I made a new holder out of aluminum bar stock.
The lights are all LED and haven't given me any problems. The only issue that I see as a design problem is that the license plate holder was originally plastic. I lost my license plate on a highway somewhere. I made a new holder out of aluminum bar stock.
Old Thread, and I missed Sunbeam's question referring to supplemental LED light bar at the level of the Gunnel of the C Dory 22.
I have approached this several ways. One s to lash the lights forward of the cleats-- Depending on the boat (22, 25 and 255 are all different), I also can lash the supplemental light bar to the "PVC standoffs"--whcih are about 2 feet forward of the transom. I have a "T" in the bar to sit on the gunnel, and keep it from rotating downward. I have also used separate pieces for each side, and lashed directly to the cleat--with only the wire between.
The question of aluminum trailers: They are most common on the East Coast and Gulf Coast. They last well--mine is 16 years old, and looks like new. The axle spindles are steel. The bearings and spindles should be covered with waterproof grease--same for the inner part of the hub. There can be some surface rust on the castle nut on the spindle--but again, usually these are fine. Backing plates are usually galvanized, as are the axles.
The trailer I had break, was galvanized--and it was the square tongue tubing which failed. Often galvanized will rust from the inside. The Aluminum is an "I" beam, so all sides can be easily seen.
License plate brackets--made of plastic so if you back over something it will bend, rather than break off, as solid platen. (since the license plate should be below the light, to be illuminated by the trailer tail lights, it ends up very near the ground. I have never lost a license plate, but have replaced several of the holders. I always check them on my walk around the trailer every two hours. when on the road.
The Easy Loader trailers-are quite popular--and generally good trailers for the C Dory one. The only exception is the one my neighbor got for his Tom Cat 24--it seemed too light for that heavy a boat--and I suspect it was a pontoon boat trailer, which the dealer had in stock (?)> The boat is rarely trailered, except for repair and bottom paint--and has held up fine..
I have approached this several ways. One s to lash the lights forward of the cleats-- Depending on the boat (22, 25 and 255 are all different), I also can lash the supplemental light bar to the "PVC standoffs"--whcih are about 2 feet forward of the transom. I have a "T" in the bar to sit on the gunnel, and keep it from rotating downward. I have also used separate pieces for each side, and lashed directly to the cleat--with only the wire between.
The question of aluminum trailers: They are most common on the East Coast and Gulf Coast. They last well--mine is 16 years old, and looks like new. The axle spindles are steel. The bearings and spindles should be covered with waterproof grease--same for the inner part of the hub. There can be some surface rust on the castle nut on the spindle--but again, usually these are fine. Backing plates are usually galvanized, as are the axles.
The trailer I had break, was galvanized--and it was the square tongue tubing which failed. Often galvanized will rust from the inside. The Aluminum is an "I" beam, so all sides can be easily seen.
License plate brackets--made of plastic so if you back over something it will bend, rather than break off, as solid platen. (since the license plate should be below the light, to be illuminated by the trailer tail lights, it ends up very near the ground. I have never lost a license plate, but have replaced several of the holders. I always check them on my walk around the trailer every two hours. when on the road.
The Easy Loader trailers-are quite popular--and generally good trailers for the C Dory one. The only exception is the one my neighbor got for his Tom Cat 24--it seemed too light for that heavy a boat--and I suspect it was a pontoon boat trailer, which the dealer had in stock (?)> The boat is rarely trailered, except for repair and bottom paint--and has held up fine..
Thanks for the info on the supplemental lighting. As it turns out I've now bought a pair of the Pacific trailer guides, and I will rig them something like "anchorout" did, adding uprights and lights. So far I just have the wiring in place and tied off (re-wired trailer so added the pigtails in advance), but one of these days I'll install the galvanized uprights plus wooden extensions. Here is a photo of anchorout's setup, which he's pleased with - says they hang tough even with wind/waves/current:
I had always admired these sturdy uprights - which are usually used in pairs with side boards running between them - but I had one reservation. That is that I use my fenders to climb aboard often, and with these guides and the side boards it looked like that might be somewhat blocked. I also didn't really want the boat rubbing on the sideboards (not sure if it would or not since I haven't used them).
But once I saw how anchorout had done it, it looked like a good setup for me: guides to help out at the ramp, extra light mounting location, and no fender conflict for boarding. I guess if I don't end up liking the setup (which Pacific Trailer said is referred to as "tournament style") I can always buy another pair and rig them up with the long side bunks.
I had always admired these sturdy uprights - which are usually used in pairs with side boards running between them - but I had one reservation. That is that I use my fenders to climb aboard often, and with these guides and the side boards it looked like that might be somewhat blocked. I also didn't really want the boat rubbing on the sideboards (not sure if it would or not since I haven't used them).
But once I saw how anchorout had done it, it looked like a good setup for me: guides to help out at the ramp, extra light mounting location, and no fender conflict for boarding. I guess if I don't end up liking the setup (which Pacific Trailer said is referred to as "tournament style") I can always buy another pair and rig them up with the long side bunks.
Our current trailer the guide ons are PVC pipe (about 2" I believe" which are free to revolve around the square tubing which is the core, and bolted to the trailer frame. I like this better than solid non revolving guide ons, but you could only put lights on the very top.
Our side bunks are high enough that they can be used as a "step" onto the boat. Go from a step on the frame of the trailer, to top of fender (heavy aluminum diamond plate) to the side bunk--I have never had any issues with abrasion from the side bunks. The boat tends to shift slightly as we roll along, even with the strap across the gunnels.
Our side bunks are high enough that they can be used as a "step" onto the boat. Go from a step on the frame of the trailer, to top of fender (heavy aluminum diamond plate) to the side bunk--I have never had any issues with abrasion from the side bunks. The boat tends to shift slightly as we roll along, even with the strap across the gunnels.
I had bought some of the white Fulton boat guides (50" tall), although they were not the rotating type. They had nice PVC cap type LED lights as optional top fittings (which is IIRC what anchorout has on top of his Pacific guides now). However, they wouldn't work (fit) with my trailer and the way the boat sits on it. Well, since I'd always admired the Pacific guides, and then I found myself in their parts department...... 
capt. meares
New member
To add to this trailer rant, I had an odd experience with one of my trailer rollers. I have noticed for a while that I have been getting some pretty nasty scratches on the lower portion of my bow, always in the same spot. I discovered the problem to be a bad roller on my ez loader trailer. It was completely seized up. After some work I was able to remove the roller and inspect the cause of the problem. I could not believer the amount of salt caked into and underneath the plastic caliper sleeve, after removing the roller. The solid chunk of white mass was hard as a rock and took several minutes to remove with a hammer and scraper, getting all the way back down to metal. I know the problem is fixed for now, but I am more curious than anything as to what caused this phenomena??? It is like there was some kind of a strong salt magnet. Even stranger is none of the other rollers on the trailer have any symptoms of this whatsoever. Has anyone seen this before? What can I do to prevent this from happening again other than always dunking in fresh water after a day in the salt?
PaulNBriannaLynn
New member
There have been a lot of improvements with boat trailers since my first boat and trailer, a 1972 Caulkins painted steel trailer. That thing would get hot and burn out trailer bearings while slinging grease all over everything and was almost impossible to get the boat on there straight.
Modern boat trailer bearings are a huge improvement. Our 2003 King trailer under our 22' had a spare wheel with bearing and hub ready to bolt on, should we have a failure. Luckily we never did, with 4 years of use, thousands of miles and 100s of saltwater launches.
The lights on the other hand were a real pain. I never did burn out a bulb though. I had many frustrating times where I would only have lights on one side, and it would be a loose ground, or Id need to jiggle the plug in truck. The problem was I'd get them working, and another 10 miles down the road at 70 mph, they'd stop working again without me knowing. This was really dangerous especially at night. I was nearly rear-ended trailering over Highway 2 near Leavenworth after dark.... and that would have been totally my fault, even though I'd just got them working properly again maybe 20 miles before.
I think the solution is a portable light bar, which you can unplug when launching and place in the cab of your pickup. It may seem "hillbilly" for such a nice boat, but its the way I'll be going in the future.
Only using sling launches, or just using the trailer twice a year to put it in for the season is a huge negative. I'm always a little bummed when we would have our boat moored for months at a time in the same spot. There's something about the freedom of having your boat on a trailer. You can go anywhere you want, and we really took advantage of that in Washington state. One weekend we'd be camping on Orcas island catching shrimp, the next weekend we'd be on the Skagit river plunking for pink salmon. You need a good trailer for that life.
Modern boat trailer bearings are a huge improvement. Our 2003 King trailer under our 22' had a spare wheel with bearing and hub ready to bolt on, should we have a failure. Luckily we never did, with 4 years of use, thousands of miles and 100s of saltwater launches.
The lights on the other hand were a real pain. I never did burn out a bulb though. I had many frustrating times where I would only have lights on one side, and it would be a loose ground, or Id need to jiggle the plug in truck. The problem was I'd get them working, and another 10 miles down the road at 70 mph, they'd stop working again without me knowing. This was really dangerous especially at night. I was nearly rear-ended trailering over Highway 2 near Leavenworth after dark.... and that would have been totally my fault, even though I'd just got them working properly again maybe 20 miles before.
I think the solution is a portable light bar, which you can unplug when launching and place in the cab of your pickup. It may seem "hillbilly" for such a nice boat, but its the way I'll be going in the future.
Only using sling launches, or just using the trailer twice a year to put it in for the season is a huge negative. I'm always a little bummed when we would have our boat moored for months at a time in the same spot. There's something about the freedom of having your boat on a trailer. You can go anywhere you want, and we really took advantage of that in Washington state. One weekend we'd be camping on Orcas island catching shrimp, the next weekend we'd be on the Skagit river plunking for pink salmon. You need a good trailer for that life.
We got away from the plastic license plate brackets for the above reason. They are ok for minimal trailering. The license plate was still hanging from one side as someone in the pouring rain signaled me there was a problem with the trailer. I pulled over as did the good Samaritan. He wanted to know if I needed any tools this all in a driving rain! I saw the plate hanging by one half of the bracket and just cut the other tab off with a sharp knife. We rode home with the trailer plate in the truck. We carry a spare now as they are cheap. I doubt I will ever need it but someone else might.
D.D.
_________________
We used 5/16 thick conveyor belting for the license plate for the license plate holder. We have conveyor belting under both rear lights as it reduces vibration hopefully preventing lights from vibration cracking by adding the cushion of the conveyor belting. But not under the light bar which is bolted to a cross member that does not vibrate too much I hope. Note gussets on tail light brackets which will crack right at the 90 degree bend without the gussets. 90 pound stranded fishing wire with crimped loops on and under the bolts for retention. The license plate is bolted to a 1/4 plastic backing plate fabricated out of some plastic to prevent cracking around the fasteners on the plate. Lots of miles and with no more failures yet.
D.D.