Trailer Scraping

CDory23

New member
Hello all,

I finally got my new to me cabin cruiser 22 on the trailer today to bring home. It sits on a Pacific single axle trailer. First thing I noticed is how low the back of the trailer rides. I have a steep driveway and knew I was going to be in trouble and of course I was It scraped very badly for about 4 feet. A quick online search and I found these:

http://www.etrailer.com/Motorhome-Acces ... 79021.html

What do people think? My clearance of where I would install these is 6 1/4" and these are 2 1/4" leaving me with an installed clearance of 4"
 
Could you post a photo of your boat on the trailer? I think that would help us (it would me, anyway). My trailer doesn't even come close to scraping (granted it is a tandem, but a single would have larger wheels), so I'm just wondering if there is something "off" about your trailer or the placement of the boat on it. Maybe not, but if I were you I wouldn't mind a few Brats laying eyes on it (via photos).
 
I can measure mine later, but off the cuff I would say it is something like 12" or so from the ground to the bottom of the frame. Definitely not 6". I can now understand why there is an issue. Will be good to see photos.
 
That looks like a Pacific Trailer - at least from the detail I can see at the rear. Those are nice trailers, and from what I have seen (at least on tandems), they fit the boat nicely. They do run right to the back of the boat (which many others don't) and there is a part of the frame that thus extends pretty far down and is right at the rear of the trailer.

Here are the photos of your boat and trailer:

CDory23_s_trailer_3.jpg

CDory23_s_trailer_1.jpg

CDory23_s_trailer_2.sized.jpg

And here are a few other Pacific Trailers, that look like yours but are tandems. You can see how the frame extends well aft and down -- but with the tandems, the rear axle is further aft I think, and thus there is less frame overhang.

Pacific_trailer_blue_rose.sized.jpg

pacific_trailer_side_guides_jenny_b.sized.jpg

nice_looking_side_guides_on_C3PO.jpg


In contrast, my trailer (and other non-Pacifics I've seen) tend to have the frame stop short of the very back of the boat, and thus only the bunks extend all the way aft (and they are quite a bit higher off the ground than that framing member you have). Actually, I've always thought that was a nice feature of the Pacific (or any trailer that has a longer frame).

Here is a shot of my boat on the trailer just to compare. Pardon the ridiculous overexposure, but it does show how the boat sits on the trailer. As you can see, the trailer frame ends before the transom (the bunks continue on until just past the end of the transom, however). I would actually prefer that the boat sit a bit further forward on the trailer, but the way the winch post sits makes it hard to move just a short way forward.

on_trailer.sized.jpg


So, I think perhaps I can visualize how it is scraping now. First you have the frame right aft and low due to the style of it, and then maybe because it is a single axle, it pivots a bit more in a see-saw fashion when you are going over dips or etc.? I'm not sure about that last, but just thinking out loud. As Chester says, is your hitch ball perhaps a bit high and so the trailer is angling down in addition to the other factors?

Since I can't see the trailer, and I don't know your tongue weight, this is just a thought: If you could use more tongue weight, then perhaps the axle could be moved aft a bit. I don't know that you could move it enough to make a difference though, since just a small shift changes tongue weight quite a bit. 15" wheels would help a little bit (and might give you better load capacity, depending on other factors).

Another idea would be to contact Pacific Trailers (who are in California). I called them to ask about some side guides (I really like those Pacific side guides, but they are very expensive to retrofit!), and they were great to talk to.
 
Thanks for the responses.

Yes the trailer is level. That was the first thing I adjusted for when seeing how low the rear of the trailer sat. I invested in an adjustable ball height hitch a while back so this was very easy for me to compensate for. It looks like in less I get a new trailer the skid rollers are my only option. If I attach the skid rollers directly to the lowest part of the trailer shown in my pictures what are thoughts about that supporting the weight? That would be my main concern. Good solution? I think maybe getting a different material wheel would be easier on the driveway.
 
The rollers seem like a reasonable solution to me.

I'd use the larger ones to carry the load and minimize the damage to the concrete or asphalt. Don't know about wheels of different composition, or whether they would carry the load.

Since they have to be welded on, they''ll require you to paint them as well as repaint your trailer where they're welded to cover the exposed metal. This will have to be watched carefully and kept repainted as necessary, and especially if the trailer is used in salt water.

Is there a bolt-on design available? Would make a better DIY project and not be so invasive on the trailer frame.

Good Luck!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I need to confirm the dimensions of the cross bar on back of trailer but these look like the winning ticket.

http://www.etrailer.com/Motorhome-Acces ... aQodmHIAaA


I can install them on the taper up the trailer to be around an inch lower then the lowest part so I don't lose all my clearance as if I installed them on the straight lowest part in the middle.

I know launching in salt water will be hard on them but I will rinse them well and grease the zerks after every outing. I couldn't find a SS version.

Any thoughts out there?
 
I would like to see the drive way pic's. I'm just wondering if you make some wood blocks or make some wood ramps that would allow you to get up your frame up a little so you can get up the drive with out scraping. Maybe go with larger wheels and tires if the fenders can take it. I think those metal wheels are going to dig into the asphalt and you will be right back where you started unless it's concrete you are dealing with. Maybe have a paving contractor see if he could do something to change the situation for not a lot of money. I'm just throwing things out there. Move to Iowa pretty flat there. Maybe an adjustable drawbar to lower the hitch just for the driveway that would get the rear end up just enough. Good Luck!
D.D.
 
Thanks for the reply. Driveway is steep and we just had pavers installed on same grade so nothing would be cheap about trying to change that. As far as blocks go I would consider it but I live on a main thoroughfare at the top of a blind hill. The scraping begins right where people come over the top of the hill and sometimes are speeding so don't have time to deal with it.

I am going to order the last ones I sent link to or something similar today and I'll let everybody know how it goes.

Thanks
 
ST 215/75 D14
These are going to be rated too low for the C Dory 22, at 1875 lbs capacity each.The 22 comes in at about 4000 lbs on most trailers. The tandem axle is far better. You may want to go to at least 15" tires. This may also help with the clearance issue.

Trailer tires need to be no more than 6 years old.

The V in the trailer frame is not necessary in the flat bottom C Dory. But if you make any modifications to the frame--which is galvanized, you are going to have issues with corrosion. When you put skid wheels on, you will not want them any more than a few fractions below the current frame. These "wheels" don't really turn easily (from many years of RV experience)
 
A concern I have about the steel rollers would be that if they are gong to substantially be lifting the rear of the trailer when they engage the ground, they could be a source of stress on the trailer and boat, neither of which is designed to carry. RV's are a big box that is structurally homogeneous. Boat trailers are a long flat plane with little structural strength end to end. They work because the boat load is being carried over the axel or axels. The rest of the trailer is there to have something to connect it to the tow vehicle and to hold beds on while the boat is in the water and have a place to attach axles. if you try to lift it from the back end with a load on, over time, something bad MIGHT happen. But for the occasional emergency ride up a steep driveway, maybe not so bad.

I think the better solution is to fix up the drive way with some temporary blocks to lift the wheels higher at that part of the drive where the scrape occurs.
 
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