Trailer wheel bearings

B

Blueback

New member
I know this subject has been discussed to some degree, but I thought I would share my take on preventive bearing maintenance. I have served a Machinist apprenticeship where the understanding of how critical bearing maintenance is was stressed and demonstrated, with many failed bearing repairs. I moved on to marine engineering and retired as a shore based Power Eng. Having said that, I am still learning about all things with an open mind at 80, so take it that way.
This is not intended to be a treaty on the bearing subject here, just a little insight into what I have experienced with trailer bearings.
First off: Bearings and bearing seals were made, in my youth, by USA companies which were of high quality like "SKF" etc. It's has been said that good bearings were the cornerstone of mobility for the advancing military after D-Day, as Allies advanced across Europe. These bearings were under strict quality control with a method for tracking back to the factory assemble line and even to the workers producing bad bearing. So quality was high.
Not so today; China and south east Asia spins out cheap bearings and bearing seals and have flooded the North America market with them. The problem is quality varies greatly in these bearings products and that's the problem we face with our boat trailer bearings. Will they last, or let you down in a very inconvenient fashion? Therefore, the point of writing this is to say that for most of those who tow any distance, a yearly winter check of your trailer bearing is a good practice to get into. Then in the summer get into the habit, when you pull into a rest stop, to put your hand on your wheel hubs for any abnormal temperature present. That will give you a clue to a possible bad bearing developing. When you get home jack the wheel up and spin it, listening for any noise from the bearing. Do not rely on Bearing Buddy's by pumping a whole wack of grease into the hub. If its a noisy bearing it must be replaced-period. Now to Bearing Buddy's -some swear by them -some swear at them and most professional's in the trailer industry say BBs are a false sense of security as, with a hub full of grease who wants to do a full yearly visual inspection of the bearings. Whereas, pulling the outside bearing cone, washing, and inspecting a bearing takes about 10 minutes if only the bearing is packed with grease. Then if you find brinelling marks (bar marks) - or any pitting - replace both inner and outer bearings and of course the inner seal.
 
We have axles that are drilled in such a way that they have a grease zerk fitting on the end of the axle and the grease when pumped in comes out behind the bearings. The hubs have a tin cup that you drive on to the hub and that has a rubber cap that allows you to remove it for inspection or to add grease. They seem to be water tight. I add as much grease as possible as it leaves less room for water. This allows for you to be able to pump in new grease forcing the older grease out. As long as I don't see water contamination in the grease I no longer pull wheels and replace seals annually.
Because of Boris on this site I have purchased Timken bearings and seals which I believe are made in the U.SA. Timken is the undisputed best name in bearings and the other products they manufacture. Timken bearings and seals cost more but shopping on the internet you can do much better than you will at a local bearing house. The Timken seals are much more robust than the standard Chinese units that we normally see supplied.
I think how often you pull wheels on your trailer and change seals has a lot to do with the type lubrication system on your trailer. If I had oil bath hubs I would not likely pull wheels every year as they have and excellent reputation. I would definitely make sure the oil showed no signs of water contamination or intrusion. I'm not a big fan of bearing buddies but they are better than just plain dust caps on your hubs.
I would also pay close attention to the type of grease you use. Lots of greases are soap based which mean they are water soluble. We have a Float On Trailer and they recommend Lucas Red and Tacky grease. WWW.lucasoil.com/products/grease/red-n-tacky-grease
You can usually find it at Wal-Mart and it is available in both tubs and cartridges made for grease guns. I always buy more grease than I need so I won't get into a situation where I would have mix greases because I found additional supplies unavailable in a location while traveling. We always feel tires with my hand laying flat on the top of the tire and use my two forefingers touching the hubs. We do this every time we stop for fuel. Sunny side always runs a little hotter. If either is hot enough that you can't stand the heat on your fingers or hand something is probably wrong and should be checked out. Some use infra red thermometers but I find them to be a hassle as they are something else to have to dig out, worry about dropping and breaking, and deal with the batteries etc. But whatever you feel comfortable with. Safe Travels,
D.D.
 
I get my bearings and seals from a bearing supply company here in Madison, Wi. Usually Timken. I also replace the original rubber coated seals with the same rubber coated seals. I run oil bath bearings, which run cooler than grease packed, and also allow me to monitor thru clear plastic cap the condition of the oil. I still pull the hubs every few years to check my electric brakes and bearings. Regarding Chinese made stuff. Just a question/thought. Do the Chinese not run their equipment on a lot of their products? I'm all for buying American if possible. However, a lot of the cost for American products is the increase in manufacturing costs due to labor and corporate greed. Not that they are superior in material. Any product should be monitored and maintained. Colby
 
The first time I re-did my trailer (or rather, "had it done," that time) I went to a bearing house and got Made in USA Timken bearings to substitute for the unknown-quality Made in China bearings that came with the Kodiak hubs. Maybe the original ones were fine, but I wasn't totally confident in them, so the extra money was well spent for piece of mind.

And I'd say the Timkens did really well. Due to a number of ham-fisted things the "pro's" did to the trailer, those bearings saw some really high heat for many miles (as I limped across the country, figuring out one thing they did wrong at each stop...). And yet they still looked great 20,000 miles+ later when I took things completely apart this winter to re-do them myself (they did start running cool after that one first trip though, as I fixed that part of the mistakes).

Even though the Timkens didn't show any real signs of problems, I decided to get new bearings when I re-did things this winter. The new hubs I put in had new races in them already, and I read you shouldn't mix new/old. Plus I did know these bearings had been through the mill on that first long trip. When I went to make my bearing purchase, I found that the Timkens were no longer Made in USA. Now, maybe they are still great. After all, any country can do fine work. But... I don't know, and oftentimes things are moved away to save a buck. They may still be made to a really high standard, but it's not like I'm a metallurgist so I can check them. Hence, I had a little question in my mind, unlike when I bought the Made in USA ones the first time around.

After doing a little reading, I decided to switch to SKF bearings, Made in Japan. Do I know they're better? No. But I had to choose something and that's what I felt best about given the givens. My guess is they are better than the particular Made in China ones that are included "free" in the Kodiak kit. Perhaps the "new" Timkens would have been as good or better, I don't know. I can't measure the quality control. But I felt more enthusiastic about buying the Timkens (even though they were expensive) when they were Made in USA. I guess I'll know more about the SKF bearings as time goes by. Main thing is this time I did all the work so I know how it went together. I feel better about that than I did when it was all a mystery (compounded by the fact the pro's I happened to use did a horrible job - not all would, of course).
 
A high quality and very expensive bearing in an application that is going to get wet and ruined is great, but it doesn't pass the ECO 101 test. I literally throw mine away after about 3-4 years of use no matter what anyway as they always have some signs of pitting, a little rust from who knows what, and don't run smooth. Now, if you can keep everything dry, which may or may not happen, a high quality bearing with adequate lube will just about go forever if not loaded beyond design parameters. For what is it worth, I have bought lots of inexpensive Chinese made bearings (6 roblees bearings) that have lasted years and years when I can keep them dry on trailers that don't get dunked into cold salt water.
 
Well then maybe buying "better" bearings is pointless. OTOH, it makes me feel better about them, so that's worth it to me.

I was impressed at how good the Timken bearings looked after the horrible first cross-country trip they went through due to some issues with the shop's work. Of course I have no idea how the original "lesser" bearings would have done in the same situation because I had replaced them all with the Timkens.
 
As far as I can tell, Timken are the only bearings the one can buy that either say "made in USA" or "made in Poland". I've replaced the original Chinese bearings on the E-Z Loader trailer after they failed in the first year. First time that happened to me and the first set of Chinese bearings I had.

Anyway I congratulate those that have had good service from Chinese bearings, but I haven't. And since the boat trailer has oil filled hubs any sign of water turns the oil white and that hasn't happened.

Boris
 
Properly cared for bearings should last a long time.

1. Let cool before dunking in water.

2. Grease before any long trip, and regularly repack (apparently not necessary for oil bath, but I would worry about plastic covers (even lexan) because of road debris.

3. watch the temperature--IR thermometer is so cheap, and easy to use.

4. Check the bearings every 2 hours, or after a long down grade--especially if you have surge disc brakes.

5. Use quality grease.

6. check the grease before you start the long trip--and after you have launched, before the long drive home.

7. Wash the hub, tires, brakes and all the trailer, with fresh water after salt water launch.

Doing this, you should get many thousands of miles out of bearings---probably the life of the average time we own the boats or more. I don't see any sense in changing out bearings just because you have gone a few thousand miles. I was averaging up to 7,000 miles a year, and the only time I had to change bearings was when a set overheated after a long down hill run, and I suspect the discs were heating up the hub--I had failed to do my usual check, because of freeway conditions in the Salt Lake City area--mistake on my part.
 
Will-C":2l8p86e8 said:
We have axles that are drilled in such a way that they have a grease zerk fitting on the end of the axle and the grease when pumped in comes out behind the bearings. The hubs have a tin cup that you drive on to the hub and that has a rubber cap that allows you to remove it for inspection or to add grease. They seem to be water tight. I add as much grease as possible as it leaves less room for water. This allows for you to be able to pump in new grease forcing the older grease out. As long as I don't see water contamination in the grease I no longer pull wheels and replace seals annually.
Because of Boris on this site I have purchased Timken bearings and seals which I believe are made in the U.SA. Timken is the undisputed best name in bearings and the other products they manufacture. Timken bearings and seals cost more but shopping on the internet you can do much better than you will at a local bearing house. The Timken seals are much more robust than the standard Chinese units that we normally see supplied.
I think how often you pull wheels on your trailer and change seals has a lot to do with the type lubrication system on your trailer. If I had oil bath hubs I would not likely pull wheels every year as they have and excellent reputation. I would definitely make sure the oil showed no signs of water contamination or intrusion. I'm not a big fan of bearing buddies but they are better than just plain dust caps on your hubs.
I would also pay close attention to the type of grease you use. Lots of greases are soap based which mean they are water soluble. We have a Float On Trailer and they recommend Lucas Red and Tacky grease. WWW.lucasoil.com/products/grease/red-n-tacky-grease
You can usually find it at Wal-Mart and it is available in both tubs and cartridges made for grease guns. I always buy more grease than I need so I won't get into a situation where I would have mix greases because I found additional supplies unavailable in a location while traveling. We always feel tires with my hand laying flat on the top of the tire and use my two forefingers touching the hubs. We do this every time we stop for fuel. Sunny side always runs a little hotter. If either is hot enough that you can't stand the heat on your fingers or hand something is probably wrong and should be checked out. Some use infra red thermometers but I find them to be a hassle as they are something else to have to dig out, worry about dropping and breaking, and deal with the batteries etc. But whatever you feel comfortable with. Safe Travels,
D.D.
Click to expand...
Ah-yes the quality of the bearing grease is one of the keys to bearing life. I also use marine grade, extreme pressure 'red' tacky grease. Your touch test on the tires as well as the bearing hubs is right on. However, I respectfully disagree with loading the whole axel hub cavity with grease as that's in many cases is a way to blow yours seals.
 
The replaceable tin cups that are driven into the hubs have rubber dust caps that are removable. That's so you can add grease they are tight enough to seal out water seal out the water and hold the grease in. I think they would let any excess pressure be relieved before blowing a wheel seal. We just returned from a trip to Bellingham Wa. from our home which about 30 miles north of Philadelphia Pa. The trip was just about 7500 mile round trip some of which was in 100 degree temps. Our boat on a trailer weighs about 10,400 pounds. None of the wheels seals are leaking yet. In a couple months we will head down to the Florida Keys. If the grease looks good I'll not pull the wheels before I go. This is my second Float On trailer my previous one was set up the same way and always had the hubs full. Never blew out a seal. That also got trailered around a fair amount check our album. That was purchased 2009 and sold 2015 never had any bearings replaced. I did previously change the seals annually but not anymore. As far as Timken bearings go I would think they have maybe they have to adhere to stricter standards than someone who does not have their reputation. But maybe I'm stupid for thinking they are a better product. It does not bother me other than I hope the ones I have were made in the USA. I think if you have to change out bearings every four years you might be doing something wrong. But that's just me.
D.D.
 
Salmon Fisher":398whhfm said:
Anyone use the Vault system?

I have a friend who just purchased a King trailer and they are a stock item. Have heard of others through local fishing club who have them, too.

http://www.ufpnet.com/portals/0/pdfs/va ... ochure.pdf
Click to expand...

Geez, Patrick, just a little late here! After my bearings and brakes struggles of late, I am probably not about to change everything out on a whim! But had I known about the Vault system, I probably would have gone that way, and the next bearing failure, I am no doubt going to spring for Vault. I did not see a price...how much are these puppies (for a double axle King trailer)?
 
Not being a mechanic (or very mechanical), I like the idea of having something that I don't have to take in to get checked twice a year, so this Vault system seems intriguing. So, I called the California number in the link, they sell parts, not Pacific trailers. OK, so after 3 more calls, I got to a "local" parts store in Tacoma, who wholesales parts, and had names of some local shops that could do the work.

Seems that the hub replacements can be done on some axles, and not others (what's new about that?). OK, so we are checking to see if mine can be retrofitted. If they were torsion axles, most likely, but they are not. If they were after 2010 maybe so..... and on it goes. And the Kodiak brakes are and additional issue. Might be able to do it with them. And so it goes.

It sounds like it would be an upgrade that might be worth doing. I may have a $$ amount by tomorrow.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

IMGP6704.thumb.jpg
 
Although the "Vault" system sounds nice, and interesting....a good thru the hub, or even traditional system will work well for many years. Nothing really "magic" about the "Vault" system...except it sounds better with "hybrid" grease.... Good seals, and the superlube system will do just as well...
 
It looks like a pretty pricey setup to switch over on a tandem axle trailer. It looks like you have to use their hubs. Ill just stick with replacing the grease and wheel seals once in a while. They are readily available just about anywhere.
Good luck with the new hot setup. We shall see if they stand the test of time.

http://www.easternmarine.com/ufp-vault- ... bly-43039r

You can see all prices on the Vault setup at www.easternmarine.com Once you get there just type in the search box Vault bearing lube system and you see what they have to offer.
D.D.
 
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