Trailer winch: cable or strap?

Grumpy":vm884xa8 said:
I have read some posts on people using this
http://www.amsteelblue.com/
instead of wire cable but cannot comment from own use.
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I could see that; it's the type of "high tech" line that is starting to see use as sailboat rigging (to take the place of wire rope), and I believe it's also being used some in the fishing industry, for rigging.

I thought about going with high-tech line, but I figured that it would be more prone to overwraps (because of the "rope" shape, not because of the specific material), whereas a strap seems like it shouldn't do that.

Sunbeam
 
I'm not the one buying the strap/cable/spectra/etc. but, in good humor, it appears to me the thread is verging on paralysis by analysis. :!:
 
colobear":9t232ba0 said:
I'm not the one buying the strap/cable/spectra/etc. but, in good humor, it appears to me the thread is verging on paralysis by analysis. :!:
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Well I actually ordered the winch yesterday, so the thread did accomplish something :wink Not only that, but they had free shipping for orders of $150 or more (which of course was $25 less than I had in my cart), so I "threw in" a tire for the spare rim on my trailer (I had one of the original tires still on that, which was pretty tired and not even the same size as my newer radials). So, one more thing checked off my list :thup

That said, surely we can get a couple more pages out of it :mrgreen:

Sunbeam
 
Sunbeam":3gxm2evv said:
colobear":3gxm2evv said:
I'm not the one buying the strap/cable/spectra/etc. but, in good humor, it appears to me the thread is verging on paralysis by analysis. :!:
Click to expand...

Well I actually ordered the winch yesterday, so the thread did accomplish something :wink Not only that, but they had free shipping for orders of $150 or more (which of course was $25 less than I had in my cart), so I "threw in" a tire for the spare rim on my trailer (I had one of the original tires still on that, which was pretty tired and not even the same size as my newer radials). So, one more thing checked off my list :thup

That said, surely we can get a couple more pages out of it :mrgreen:

Sunbeam
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So...... tell us about the tire. :lol: :wink:
 
Are you trying to say that you are long winded ??? LOL

Bill Kelleher


:lol: Come on now, I would have taken three paragraphs to explain that. Thread killer! :wink[/quote]
 
Okay, the thread lives :wink

I've got my new winch in hand (and, more importantly, the old winch off), and this is spurring me to take care of a couple of outstanding trailer details. I have another tie-down related question (wasn't sure whether to start a new thread or not since we did discuss this previously in this one).

I see where some of you use a turnbuckle and chain to run from the bow eye down to the trailer (and my trailer has a handy, welded loop directly below the bow eye). This seems like a good idea, and since I'm about to place a McMaster-Carr order (for other stuff), I was looking at turnbuckles. Question arises: How much working load should the turnbuckle have? At first I was thinking I'd go for something like 3,500#, but that is a really large turnbuckle! (14-3/4" closed length). Also, I don't normally just guess.

I really have no idea what the "working strength" of the trailer bow stand or the boat bow eye are. I'd guess the bow eye is going to be the weak link, being stainless, but.... how weak? What have others gone for, WLL-wise on the turnbuckle? I don't want to under spec, but no sense having it be twice as strong as it needs to be, either.

Sunbeam

PS: In other trailer news, I was able to easily move the bow stand forward about 2" (any more than that is going to be tricky, unless I move it much more). The reason I moved it is that, in looking at photos in the albums, I noticed that the forward axle on my trailer was further forward than that of most other 22's (drew a line to see where it intersected the window), so then I weighed it. Only around 250# tongue weight, which seems a bit light, at around 5.5% . It's trailered just fine, but then I have not had any fuel in the tanks (nor gear in the cockpit) so that would add something like 300-500# right aft -- and that 5% would only go down. I bet I might have noticed it then. I'll re-weigh the tongue now with everything else the same as it was. Be interesting to see what difference a 2" move made. With the new winch I'm thinking (hoping!) that I can crank the boat that 2" forward (maybe not a concern, just never tried it). Perhaps I'll spray the bunks with water.
 
Personally I would not use a turnbuckle. I prefer to have a little stretch in the tiedowns, less shock load on bow eyes, etc as the boat bounces going down the road. Same logic as for mooring and anchor lines. I use a ratcheting tiedown with a 1.5" nylon Strap.
 
colobear":2afjh676 said:
Personally I would not use a turnbuckle. I prefer to have a little stretch in the tiedowns, less shock load on bow eyes, etc as the boat bounces going down the road. Same logic as for mooring and anchor lines. I use a ratcheting tiedown with a 1.5" nylon Strap.
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That's a point. I did have a 3-strand line in use, wrapping it around four or five times and then giving it some frapping turns (not as a grand plan, but because that's what I had to work with). My thought on the turnbuckle/chain was that there would be no movement, hence no shock loading (and hopefully, thus no rubbing of bow on rollers, etc.). It's a straight vertical shot of about 24" on my trailer. Hmm...
 
I don't notice any visible boat movement when towing but having towed over some crappy roads, bumpa-bumpa-bumpa...am pretty sure there is enough movement due to trailer flex if nothing else that I'll stick with a little stretch YMMV.
 
colobear":3r5xnkle said:
Personally I would not use a turnbuckle. I prefer to have a little stretch in the tiedowns, less shock load on bow eyes, etc as the boat bounces going down the road. Same logic as for mooring and anchor lines. I use a ratcheting tiedown with a 1.5" nylon Strap.
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I agree with Barry. I have a similar one, although not a ratcheting lock, mine has the pressure snap lock. Works great, cost $5 from the chandlers.

Martin.
 
Sunbeam. Hi. Congrats on the new tire. :wink: Ypu will like the new winch too. First thing I did was swap out a cable for a 2 speed strap winch. 20 feet is plenty. I usually use 6 ft or less and I carry a 25 ft strap stretcher :wink:

On the ramp usually float up to about a 2 - 4 ft pull. Then even with the bow up tight once I am up on ghe level fhere will be several inches of space. It must come from the geometry and flex of the ramp and unweighted trailer. Easy fix is a panic stop from a very slow roll. Slides the boat up tight. Then I tighten the strap and reset the safety chain and put on the stern ties. All that while waiting for the wash rack. :smiled

Oh. That panic stop. Make sure things (both in the boat and tow rig are secure) Some things tend to continue forward due to inertia. Might be good (the boat) and might be not so good (the coffee cup on
the table) :unlove :thdown :sad .

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
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