Trailering a 22ft cruiser

Actually, the weight figure is the carrying capacity of the trailer, not it's GVWR (at least for King and EZ Loader). Your figure of 3300 pounds leaves a 400 pound margin of error, which is usually more than enough for most owners.

And it's the factory (Fluid) that suggests the 3700 pound capacity single axle trailer.

If a customer wants tandems we are happy to oblige, but a well built trailer should be able to carry it's rated capacity.

Can I also make the notation that there is more to it than just "adding an axle" to a trailer. The trailer is designed for it's load, so the single axle on the 3700 is a usually much heavier axle than the ones used on a 4000 or 4600 pound trailer. Even if an owner wanted to add an axle, it is usually cost prohibitive from a parts and labor standpoint. Usually better off to trade the single in to get the tandem. (plus adding an axle might void the warranty on a newer trailer) especially if the axles are welded onto the frame (not the norm, but I have seen some).

My point is that the trailer is designed for the rated load. If you feel 3700 is too small, fine, but 4600 may be oversized (imo) and adds 300 pounds to the amount being towed above the 3700. That can be important when factoring in how much the rig can tow.

We feel that the 3700 would be adequate for most owners, but if tandem is preferred we would recommend the 4000 pound capacity. One advantage to the tandem is that is sits lower because it uses 14" wheels rather tha 15's.

This may get into a similar arena as single or twin engine choice. I can make an argument why a buyer should go either way. Ultimately, I leave it up to their discretion. But I also won't oversell just to line my pocket. Just not my style.
 
breausaw":2yegy2l6 said:
Also, if you’re launching in salt consider sealed oil bath wheel bearings.

Jay :D :thup

Jay, I'm curious-

We've seen lots of problems with the oil bath hubs in salt water, and prefer the Eliminator hubs being used by others. Why do you prefer the oil bath style?
 
I pull behind a Toyota access cab 4x4 with the tow package and the loaded boat is well within the load capacity. I think it depends on where you intend to tow. If long grades are in your future then a tandem is always nice as you get four breaks working for you. This is also nice in the event of an urgent stop.
 
Capital Sea":1808jnwm said:
I pull behind a Toyota access cab 4x4 with the tow package and the loaded boat is well within the load capacity. I think it depends on where you intend to tow. If long grades are in your future then a tandem is always nice as you get four brakes working for you. This is also nice in the event of an urgent stop.

Or a Blowout :shock: , the biggest thing IMHO in favor of a tandem trailer!

Charlie
 
Matt Gurnsey":3c4xxkp9 said:
breausaw":3c4xxkp9 said:
Also, if you’re launching in salt consider sealed oil bath wheel bearings.

Jay :D :thup

Jay, I'm curious-

We've seen lots of problems with the oil bath hubs in salt water, and prefer the Eliminator hubs being used by others. Why do you prefer the oil bath style?

Hi Matt,

This is news to me, not heard of any problems with sealed oil bath wheel bearings. Perhaps the ones you’re referring to are the after market add-on’s, my trailer came factory sealed oil bath bearings-the same used on commercial trailers.

The dealer up here informs me all new Ex Loader boat trailers they sell have oil bath bearings now, and they haven’t seen any problems.

To service them all you have to do is jack up the axel and remove drain plug, rotate the wheel so drain the oil, re-rotate topside and fill with fresh 90 weight.

The side glass allows you to see the fluid level and monitor for signs of contamination. As long as the bearings aren’t flinging oil the seals don’t need to be touched, just change to oil every couple of years.

I’ve got close to 14k on my trailer (it’s made two trips over the Alaska hwy); the oil still looks like honey.

My suggestion would be if you’re buying a new trailer consider one with sealed oil bath bearings, but current wisdom suggests going with what works.

Jay
 
Interesting.

But I was talking about the factory install. We have seen numerous seal failures and problems with condensation in the hub itself. We've also seen some corrosion that has us concerned about longevity of the sealing surface.

But I am glad they are working for you. We've moved away from recomending EZ Loader because of the hubs, so it's good to get your real world feedback.
 
I too continue to you my EZ Loader trailer with the oil bath hubs. Mine have gotten a little milky over the past couple years but the Honda dealer I go to for service said there wasn't any reason to open them up just yet.
 
Matt, where can I find service instruction for the oil bath hubs? The hubs came with the trailer, and I've had no troubles in 3 years of salt water, so I'm somewhat afraid to touch them. If it ain't broke don't fix it. However if I can find the hub manufacturer's recommendations, I'll think about it. Jays recommendation sound reasonable, but I'd like to see what the factory recommends.

Also, who makes them?

Boris
 
lloyds":m1wui8hc said:
Mine have gotten a little milky over the past couple years but the Honda dealer I go to for service said there wasn't any reason to open them up just yet.

It's been my experience that this means you have moisture in your oil. If your Honda mechanic saw milky colored oil on your dipstick from your engine or when he drained your gearbox, would he ignore those signs too? Based on your description, I would get a second opnion. Whether that oil has been there for one trip or 100 trips, oil should not look milky and I would be suspicious that I was getting water into the gear lube.
 
The milky oil has been the biggest issue we have seen with these hubs. Followed by getting the seals sealed after a bearing job. The culprit is condensation. The bearings warm up going down the road, and then the hub is dipped in cold water. Instant condensation in the hub.

EZ Loader changed to a smoked hub so the color of the lube can't be seen.

Being just the sales monkey, I don't touch the tools too often, but I will check with our service depatment and see what they have to say. the only issue I really have with these is if a leak develops, the oil escapes and bearing failure can't be far behind.
 
I keep checking the wheel temperatures and thought this winter I would go ahead and drain the oil and put in new. But I have a hunch that the first or second time I use it it will turn milky again. It didn't take long to turn milky after I bought it new. It isn't like there is standing water in there, the oil still appears as oil, just not the deep green color. I suspect a drop or two of water over 500 miles at 70 mph would do that.
 
I pulled my C22 from Wisconsin to Florida and back last winter behind a Ford Explorer V6, which is rated for 5100 lbs, and it worked fine, getting 12 mpg average. I did notice a difference returning from Florida with empty gas tanks on the boat, compared to the going with full tanks. Also trailer wheel alignment, and a change to radials made a big difference.
 
If the moisture intrusion is from condensation and is inherent with the design, I would change my oil at the end of a season so that the oil is fresh, with the least dilution from moisture and your bearings don't sit in water contaminated oil over the winter. If one were to go from one season to the next without changing the oil, there will be a point in time when the balance of moisture overcomes the oil's ability to prevent rust in your bearings, especially if there is oil vs. water separation from sitting for long periods.

This problem may only be prevalent in regions where dewpoint and air temperature occur to cause the condensation. If these axles could somehow be vented to allow the moisture to escape once the temperature inside where to heat upon traveling, the build up of moisture would not occur. This is the reason our vehicles' rear differentials do not have a build up of condesation, because there is a vent on top of the axle. But, of course, it is not possible, for a boat trailer axle which is totally submerged at the launch ramp.
 
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